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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by MEDIC-0372, Nov 4, 2008.
You want to stomp on the sidestand side of the bike. Because doing it on the other side compresses the suspension and rotates the bike off the stand. Not nice when the bike throws itself at the ground on rebound. Or the stand flicks up when it is unweighted.
I did consider that, but I'm more concerned about the ignition computer etc than the battery. I figured the risk was near zero if the welding was done to the axle when the rest of the bike was on the other side of the room.
I probably did have a beer while I was putting it back together... So at least I got step 2 correct!
My 2009 XT250 is always hard to start on cold mornings. The engine and carburetor are stock. Typically, the starter will turn over until the battery dies. Pretty sure the battery is fine and it is kept on a battery tender. On warm days or when the bike is already warm (riding on cold days), it fires right up. The choke is always needed for starting unless the bike has been running. I live in South Texas so cold isn't a problem very often. We are about 650 feet above sea level.
Is this a common problem or are there any changes suggested? (I have done a few searches but the responses have been old gas, clogged jets, etc but I really do not think this is it)
Thanks in advance!
Remember the battery isn't as strong when cold, and maybe the spark plug and/or spark plug wire are getting a bit old.
My nearly new John Deere zero turn radius lawn tractor seems to have more problems starting in the winter, too, and my little 1000 watt 2-stroke generator even more so. When they're stubborn, I use a little Sea Foam spray. My dad used to use spay ether, and there are lots of other starting fluids you could try.
I'm SO glad my XT is a newer model, with fuel injection. It starts right up in the winter, with maybe a LITTLE extra cranking. I do put it in neutral, to prevent that little extra drag through the cold clutch plates. It definitely makes a difference.
Absolutely. I forgot to mention that when this happens, I do spray a little a little STARTING FLUID (ether) in the spark plug hole to get it started. It will burn the fluid (be running for 1-2 seconds) and then stop. It takes 2-3 three times and the carburetor becomes warm enough for a start without the ether.
The plug is fairly new (and color looks good) but I may trade it out for a new one to experiment.
Would these type of cold starts be eliminated with fuel injection? I am familiar with how FI works, but I assume it still needs to be warm enough in there to keep the combustion going.
I live in the Blue Mountains of Australia at 1000 Metres, I've started my 2018 efi XT in temperatures below freezing. It might take one or two exrta cranks of the starter, but never a problem!
As long as it’s mechanically solid - it’s either Air, Fuel or Spark.
If it normally starts and runs it’s probably not clogged fuel filter, air intake or exhaust.
Next time it doesn’t start, pull the plug and see if it’s got spark.
If it has spark you need to look into fuel supply - most likely pilot jet.
I used DRC pegs from a Serow 250 pm my 2016. Perfect fit. See post #266
Thanks. Ordered it online for about $20 from Amazon. I will try it on bith my XT250 and KLR650 to see if it helps this sensitive butt.
Thanks. It has all three, and starts right up when warm outside. This carburetor has never liked the cold, and didn't know if it was jetted lean from the factory.
Thanks. I just received the DMO Specialties. I haven't installed them but are twice the size of OEM and made very robust.
And since I am already sharing photos, here is the XT250 sitting along side the rest of the bikes in the stable. I can't explain why, but once you have been on a motorcycle, or worked with your hands fixing a motorcycle, it gets in your blood and feels so right.
Chilly ride yesterday. Seasonal roads here in NY are still rideable with a little slower speeds.
I had a 2008 XT250 that had similar starting issues. The solution was to run the carb dry when done riding for the day by turning off the supply at the petcock. Then before the next start turn the gas back on at the petcock and give it a half a minute or so to refill the bowl. The volatiles seem to evaporate in the carb after a day or two and the technique I used always worked. I now have a 2014 XT250. The FI is an awesome improvement over the carb, throttle response is instant and always very smooth.
Replace your pilot jet with one size larger. Spray starting fluid in the air box, not into the cylinder. And follow the advice of draining the float bowl between rides. I simply turn my gas off just before I get home and try to time it so I run out of gas right when I get in the garage. Try to find a local gas station that sells alcohol free fuel. It makes a big difference.
In cold weather I always turn the fuel off and run it till it dies and also use better fuel and treat the fuel.
If I do not do what was just stated it will not start in cold weather but I have never had an issue when I do as stated.
Yep, I also did it all the same way as you with excellent results. Non ethanol gas for anything with a carb in my garage and my 2 bikes with FI get it too.
For even better results, try running 1 oz of TC-W3 two stroke oil to 4-5 gal. gas. I run it in everything. Here's 57 pages of testimonials. Only you can decide;
Gig Harbor? I was stationed at Ft. Lewis from 83 to 86. Beautiful area. I had an 82, Kaw, 1100LTD at the time, and covered a lot of ground out there. My son is stationed there now.
Thanks. I will increase pilot by one size. As for gas, I run either ethanol-free or regular treated with STABIL. With an increase in pilot, do you still recommend keeping all air intake stock?
Yes, keep it stock. There just isn't enough gain to make it worth the effort. CV carbs are very finnicky when it comes to the difference in pressures between the intake and engine side pressures. That pressure difference is what governs slide position (main jet needle) at any load/throttle position, and the air box plays a large part in the engineering design. Raising the main jet needle 1 click and putting a K&N air filter in place is about as risky as I would go, and I don't trust them for real dusty trail conditions either.
My 2012 used to take like 3-4min to start and warm up on cool mornings. I drilled out the cap over the idle air adjustment screw, turned that screw a couple times, bike starts right up and carb is happy and ready to rip in 30 seconds even in 25F. Tried to find the link that i originally found that explains the process but looks like webpage has expired... I basically never drain the carb like others describe, never have a need for it I guess.
Thank you. I also found this on another forum. I will begin this process before changing the pilot jet.