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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by MEDIC-0372, Nov 4, 2008.
Procycle has nice rear lighting solutions.
Just gave my 21 Goat full RaceTech suspension treatment front and back, springs and emulators. All I can say is...WOW! As a heavier rider I opted to go generous on weight to get a bit stiffer ride and higher ride height. With me, riding gear and camp load I estimated 325#. I gained 2 inches seat height, no longer bottom out and have controlled front brake dive. I've gained 5-10 MPH riding backroads and 2-track without pushing it and feel there's more to go to get the same feel from bike. It's taken me a longtime to come to this conclusion: in order of importance it goes suspension, tires, engine. I can now set a pace that will be harder for big bikes to keep with in the tightest of sections. I can't emphasize how good this bike is. A lot more than a 'wife' bike. I have a topnotch handling machine with low seat, lightweight, and bulletproof engine. It is easier to ride and more comfortable with stable, predictable ride. Anyone thinking they might have outgrown it consider upgrading the suspension, it gives you a whole new bike for a lot less money.
I feel your joy! Congratulations! Does Racetech do emulators for the rear shock? If not, check out Cogent suspension. They put together a shock/spring combination that is creamy smooth. If you are a big guy, try the Seat Concepts 1” higher seat foam/cover kit. Dead easy to install (if you have a staple gun). It puts you a bit higher in the saddle and opens up some leg room yet you can still sit on the bike and paddle over obstacles. As well a proper set of bars and some cheap 1” risers gives you a better stance while standing. Do you have pictures of what you’ve done?
A question for all of you mechanic guys out there.
My clutch gets seriously grabby after I:
1-ride complex single track and mud for about 20 minutes
2-ride at highway speeds for about 1/2 hour.
Do you think it’s starting to go?
Should I get stiffer clutch springs?
Bruce, the teeth on your clutch plates might be catching on the spider teeth. I'm pretty sure that was happening with my clutch, though it didn't get grabby. It just wore out the outer clutch pads way too fast. If I were you, I'd get both a new set of clutch plates and heavier springs. Some clutch plate sets come with the heavier springs.
When you put it back together, be sure to put the slightly rounded side of the plates toward the engine, so they can move easily to tighten. They're formed by stamping, so one side is sharp, and the other rounded.
Since installing the new clutch plates, and smoothing the spider teeth, I've had no problems with the clutch. My write-up is here:
Thanks! It seems to get grabby after it heats up. Does this still fit your diagnosis?
Well, possibly. The hotter oil might not lubricate the spider teeth as well, letting the clutch plates catch on them. Or maybe the reduced lubrication between the friction pads and clutch plates could allow badly worn pads to catch. However, I guess before ordering new parts, or pulling the clutch apart to look at it, you should be sure your clutch cable is moving freely. Maybe operate it gently, with one finger, while on the kickstand.
It isn't that hard to pull the clutch out, as I did it first in the woods, then again at home.
By the way, I think everyone should pay attention to that little screw in the center of the clutch. It could mean riding out of the hills, rather than walking.
Thanks for your input. I’ll definitely keep all of this in mind. I’ll need to do something relatively quickly when the season starts. It’s really more annoying than “life threatening” at this point but I don’t want to get caught out. (Like you said)
I just read that warped steels can do this as well as swollen pressure plate fibres. Either way it seems prudent just to replace the clutch. $99.00 US from Procycle with EBC fibre plates and beefed up springs seems appropriate. Are there better clutch kits out there. I don’t care about price. I want the best.
I won't be embarrassing anybody, sorry to say. I'm not a go fast rider anymore. My street bikes are all vintage. I mostly ride my Airheads on two lane 55 mph country roads. My top speed is usually 65 mph no more. That's just the way I enjoy riding. The bike i get will be for riding these roads and occasionally turning off into the truck trails /old logging roads and seasonal roads. All within a half hour to an hour ride from home. The XT right now is at the top of my list. I do like the Rally and the KLX also.It may be what I can get the best deal on at this point.
I am 6’ with a 34” inseam. I found the KLX and WR too tall for me. I owned a WR250R for two seasons and never felt comfortable riding singletrack as the seat was just too tall, even with lowering links. My XT with the 1” taller seat concepts kit is perfect. I can waddle it over obstacles or easily get off and push. Plus I can dab for balance way easier because my foot hits the ground before my crotch hits the saddle.
This bike is perfect for the style of riding you do. I am mostly the same. The cogent suspension mods bring this bikes suspension to a much higher spec than a new WR or KLX. I especially feel a difference on gravel/washboard back roads. The bike feels totally planted and relaxed. You could easily purchase a used XT, get the suspension mods, better tires and a seat and still come under the price of a new KLX or WR AND GET A BETTER BIKE IN THE PROCESS.
Thanks for the input Bruce, much appreciated. I found one used one a 2013 for $3600, about a six hour drive from me.Anything newer I see used, which are few and far between, the priced are so high I might just go new.
Those two bikes are both very interesting, and not much heavier than the XT, so you should probably go and sit on each before making up your mind. For me, the larger tank, better mileage, air cooled motor, and slightly lower weight, would still lead me to the XT, but unlike you and me, a lot of riders want to go a bit faster on the highway. I personally don't hesitate to rev it up, on the Interstate, to go up to 70 mph, but try to make myself keep it down a bit slower.
As to cost, be sure to get an out-the-door quote, as the XT list price was higher than the Honda, when I bought mine back in 2014, but the out-the-door cost was actually less.
Race tech does have valving for shock. I have short inseam so bike is on borderline of being too tall now but still comfortable. I have 15mm bar risers and like them. This is an awesome upgrade.
That’s awesome! Now we have two choices for suspension on these wonderful little bikes! You should give a review of the process of installing the mods and driving impressions on various surfaces.
I had service center do all calculations and install. If you want it truly dialed in that is best way to go as I'm not too mechanically inclined and don't have the special tools or knowhow. The bike now rides on top of travel rather than banging on the bottom. It rides like it's on a rail, no twitchy steering when the front gets compressed. Much more planted feel over washboards doesn't feel like it's floating and drifting as before. Pavement cornering is confidence inspiring as I don't worry about bottoming out at apex if I encounter a bump or heave. I think I have less invested than if I bought a wr and believe I have a much better machine.
Hagon rear shock from England has rebound damping adjustment and is available from Bruce Triplett Suspensions. Just received mine two days ago but have not installed it yet.
Could not edit above post to include foto. So here it is.
I'd be interested in knowing the weight of those rear shock assemblies. For instance, that Race Tech shock, above, looks very heavy, with a fat rod and heavy steel yoke, but the Cogent Dynamics shock has an aluminum yoke and some other parts, and the picture in their ad makes its rod look much smaller diameter:
Of course, it isn't clear which is best. I've read world travelers' )complaints that the Cogent aluminum yoke has worn so badly it had to be replaced, and a heavy rod might be better than a thin one (but I suspect they just use the same large diameter needed for larger bikes, with longer shocks, that need the thick rod.)
I do think that a small rod diameter should allow more oil to provide better damping and cooling, but of course that will also depend on the inside diameter of the tube, as will weight. I do realize that spring weights will differ by load weight.
If anybody supplies the data, I'll update this table:
Make........................Weight, lbs............Rod Dia, In........Design Load
You know, I was thinking that it would be nice to create a modification database thread for the XT with the goal of listing all of the available products for out bikes and honest reviews by real users. If no-one has used the product it doesn’t show up. That way it doesn’t devolve into a bunch of advertising spin about un-used products.