While in gear, the bike doesn't move

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by , Feb 12, 2021.

  1. Zé

    Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2014
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    101
    Location:
    Lisboa - Portugal
    I've had many issues over the years with bikes, but this one is new to me and I'm a bit unclear on what it may be, so I'm coming for ideas.

    Had a Rekluse auto-clutch installed on my 2010 8GS, and in 6th gear on the highway doing around 120kms/h, I felt the rear tire slipping for a second, but nothing I found funky as the floor was wet.

    When I had to downshift, I noticed it wasn't happening while riding.

    I stopped and I could shift through the entire range of gears, and I could ride away on all of them, but once I was rolling, shifting was impossible.

    I choose a gear and as carefully as I could and did the 5-minute drive from where I was to my house where I parked the bike to open the clutch cover.

    As my Rekluse was geriatric at that point and showing clear signs of wear, I decided to order some new parts. Got another Rekluse clutch, but fully manual this time around. Had hopes it would solve the problem... it didn't.

    Sooooooooooooooo, bullet points at this time:

    - Visually the clutch basket and all other parts from the left side of the engine look and feel brand new

    - If stoped, regardless of the bike running or not, I can run through all gears, and I can even find neutral with ease

    - The clutch pack is brand new

    - I can adjust free play, as I have clutch feedback at the clutch lever

    - On the center stand, when I pass from neutral to a gear, the wheel gets traction, but when pushing the throttle, no change in the wheel speed

    - Off the center stand and ready to ride, when I put on first gear and release the clutch, the bike has no movement or shows will to lunge forward and stall, almost mimicking the Auto-Clutch feel. When I pull the throttle, again nothing happens.

    - There are no strange sounds coming from the engine, nor since the moment when the problems started

    - As far as throttle goes, I can run the engine over the revs with ease


    I am at a total loss for ideas, and I'm not keen on opening the engine just to see what may or may not be happening, as overall, it does feel like a minor/easy solution, but which one... ‍

    Anyone with ideas or a similar experience?
    #1
  2. SnoDrtRider

    SnoDrtRider I've been lost here before...

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    What are you using for oil?
    #2
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  3. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

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    Let’s start with some facts
    Who installed the Rekluse clutch?
    you said you installed a new Rekluse but a manual version?
    What oil are you using?
    what do the chain and sprockets look like for wear?
    If the engine starts and runs fine you don’t need to look in there
    #3
  4. Flyred

    Flyred Who is John Galt?

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    It sounds like your clutch plates are slipping really badly.
    #4
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  5. Zé

    Been here awhile

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    The same oil I've been using over the last 60k km. Considering I lost gearing while riding, it does not seem like an oil issue.

    Going in order:

    - I installed it, but I'm an extremely experienced aeronautical mechanical engineer who has worked, stripped, and re-built my own bikes for years with no issues. I'm rather confident that I didn't botched the installation, still, I will remove and reinstall everything to make sure I didn't do anything wrong, I've seen weirder things and I'm not proud enough to no try.

    - I did. I had the Auto-clutch and now went with their manual clutch pack.

    - The same oil I've been using for the past 60k km with no issues. I could attribute it to the oil if the problem hadn't started while riding and midway into the next oil change, timewise that is. If I had changed oils, or just had an oil change I would easily attribute slipping it to an oil issue, still, nothing like changing it and starting fresh.

    - Chain, sprockets, and everything else looks, feels, and sounds perfect when subjected to detailed inspection.

    And yes, I agree that if the engine starts and runs fine there is no need to look there, but if I can't spot any issues on the clutch side, and the transmission of power isn't happening, I will eventually run out of ideas, hence, asking you guys to be able to debate ideas. Inmates to the save! ahah


    I agree, but I'm unclear as to why... I was running a different clutch cable when I was using the Auto-clutch, so I'm wondering if I'm just not getting enough adjustability to get the clutch arm to where it needs to be, but that would still not answer to what made the first symptom happen in the first place when I lost gears while riding.

    There is the chance that the Auto-clutch died, and that the clutch cable is now too short for the manual clutch pack, but the amount of what if's needed here leads me to not put all my money on that one, but I'll still consider that option though.
    #5
  6. The Maz

    The Maz Clueless and lost

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    You did put the return spring back on the actuator after taking the auto clutch off?
    #6
    cgguy09 likes this.
  7. The Maz

    The Maz Clueless and lost

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    By the way, love your bike build of your 800
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  8. dpike

    dpike BeeKeeper Supporter

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    have you checked your plate wear ? and did you install the correct and qty of plates ?
    #8
  9. Zé

    Been here awhile

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    Very fair question, I did indeed, but I must say I had forgotten about it when I ordered the parts :nah Still, I got a new spring and made sure that it was in before closing.
    #9
    cgguy09 and The Maz like this.
  10. Zé

    Been here awhile

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    Indeed, everything is installed according to the manual. Bad habits from the planes, manual is king for this kind of stuff.
    #10
  11. Zé

    Been here awhile

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    UPDATE:

    Took everything out, installed it again and I didn't miss anything the first time around. I didn't however measure the clutch springs as my caliper tool decided to brake after a brief encounter with the concrete floor :baldy but with the km's the bike has I assume that even if the springs are ok, they are due for a change.

    As I found that if I completely remove the clutch freeplay I can shift and put power on the ground, even if not perfectly, and if I put the freeplay back, no power goes through, at this time I'm bullish oh spring failure/wear.

    Because we are on lockdown in my neck of the woods, I can't necessarily go to a store and get the parts, but I already ordered a new clutch cable and new clutch springs and I will see how that turns out once the new parts arrive, but if anyone has any different ideas, I'm more than willing to give some more tests a try to troubleshoot it.
    #11
    cgguy09 and The Maz like this.
  12. Zoef zoef

    Zoef zoef Long timer

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    Did the new clutch have correct number of plates? Sometimes one is missing.
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  13. Zé

    Been here awhile

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    FINAL UPDATE:

    Ok, so I got a vernier caliper and the new springs arrived.

    After measuring both the old and new set, they measured the same, but when compressing them by hand, the old and new set had clear differences in rate.

    Installed the new set and voilà, the bike moves properly! I'm still waiting on the new clutch cable but she is back running!

    I never had an issue like this before where no difference in measurement was noticeable, no damage on the springs was noticeable, and still, their compression rate changed enough from one second to the next to get the bike from running to unusable. Live and learn, and another troubleshooting note for the book.

    Thanks as always!
    #13
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