Who has used "Bar's Leak Rear Main Seal Repair"?

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by tpfeffer, May 25, 2009.

  1. tpfeffer

    tpfeffer Adventurer

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    Unfortunately, I have what appears to be a rear main seal leak on my '83 R100RS. I have oil dripping off the rear edge the oil pan. I replaced the oil pan gasket hoping that was the culprit, but no luck. So, I am considering Bar's Leaks Rear Main Seal Repair engine oil additive. The can says, "Most leaks stop within 100 miles or 2 days of driving. One bottle (32 oz) treats 4 to 6 quarts of oil."

    I am due for an oil change. I thought I could drain out 16 oz of oil and put that amount of Bar's Leak. Either way, I would only leave it in for a short period and then replace the oil.

    So, what is the opinion, super cure or snakeoil??
    #1
  2. StephenB

    StephenB G(/)S ... what else!

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    Snakeoil.
    #2
  3. Ron Seida

    Ron Seida Adventman

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  4. krehmkej

    krehmkej Been here awhile

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    Man, just fix it. The job is NOT bad. Just remember to block the crank. Or get in touch with your local Airheads group and bring it to the next tech day.

    OBTW: +whatever on snake oil...
    #4
  5. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    I've heard if you crack an egg and put just the white in your oil it'll stop leaks. :rofl

    I've got no experience with your snakeoil but I have changed a rear main seal. 2-3 hour job. we've got several threads on here that have good pics and guides on how to do it and if you run into trouble you can start another one.
    #5
  6. tpfeffer

    tpfeffer Adventurer

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    I hear ya. The drip is not bad enough, yet, to demand action. Given the opportunity, I would rather wait until after the riding season to put the seal.
    #6
  7. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    be sure to use BMW's rear main seal remover, seen here

    [​IMG]
    #7
  8. beezerjoe

    beezerjoe Been here awhile

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    Every good mechanic should have one.:lol3
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  9. Rob Farmer

    Rob Farmer Long timer

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    Geez! that's one rusty hammer. I'd be so ashamed.
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  10. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    it was in the landlord's garage. I keep a lot of tools on the bike but a claw hammer hasn't made it in there yet.
    #10
  11. Hughlysses

    Hughlysses Long timer

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    This stuff supposedly works by "slightly" attacking the rubber in the seals, causing them to swell. The chemical theoretically evaporates over the course of a few hundred miles so that it doesn't keep attacking the seals. The problem of course is it causes all the seals to swell, which may or may not be a problem; you might end up causing another seal which isn't leaking now to start leaking.

    I saw a variation of this product advertised on ebay. It was intended to be applied directly to outside of the seal with a Q-tip or similar. It probably wouldn't be of much use to you because you'd have to do most of the disassembly to get access to the seal to apply the product.

    I'd be willing to try this stuff on an old beater bike or car, but in your case I think I'd bite the bullet and replace the seal.
    #11
  12. Cogswell

    Cogswell Trying to live the new normal.

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    God I love this place, ingenuity abounds.


    Mike
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  13. Beemerboff

    Beemerboff Long timer

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    Sounds like no one has tried it - why dont you and let us know how it goes.

    I would be interested to see what effect it has on the oil filter O ring and seals too--------.
    #13
  14. icebox

    icebox Long timer

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    Have had better luck with Lucas Oil products, slowed or stopped leaks in all kinds of old motors, transmissions, and differentials, from as small as a Ford Ranger to hubs on 20,000lb. axles. The old standby is add a small amount of acetone, does the same thing. Not sure I would do it to my bike though, I never really cared two sh... for most of the stuff I have added stop leak to and it was to avoid removing somthing that weighed as much as a GS and was usually attached to something that weighed as much as a car
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  15. tpfeffer

    tpfeffer Adventurer

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    Thanks for your response. I was hoping for someone like you with actual experience. I saw Lucas Products on the shelf next to the Bar's Leak. Eventually I will repair the leak. I am just trying to get past the riding season before tackling the job. Difficult or not, I don't have a very conducive place to work.

    Tom
    #15
  16. danedg

    danedg Horizontally Opposed

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    I just threw a bottle of that shit in my '93 Chevy Cheyenne with 182K...
    Still leaks like a seive:puke1 !
    But...I don't give a rat's ass about the truck!......
    #16
  17. Ron Seida

    Ron Seida Adventman

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    If you replace the seal, replace the o-ring for the oil pump cover while your there. In the last photo, and i could be wrong, it appears that more oil is coming from the cover than from the seal. The bolts tend to loosen up also, a little bit of lock tite blue is advisable.
    #17
  18. NorCalslowpoke

    NorCalslowpoke Long timer

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    I'm pretty sure that most of the "stop leak" products for engines/transmissions/rear ends are, as stated prior, "rubber swellers" (insert joke here:). I used some on my old cars when I was young/broke. They actually did slow the leaks for a bit. I'd give it a shot if it is just a temp fix.

    Obviously, don't use radiator "stop leak":)

    Good luck.
    #18
  19. Hughlysses

    Hughlysses Long timer

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    Well, not in your crankcase anyway, but Bars Leaks radiator stuff is pretty good. It was actually installed at the factory in Jaguar V-12's to prevent the cast iron sleeves from leaking.
    #19
  20. Tommy2

    Tommy2 Been here awhile

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    Yea..Any additive, etc is just a temp fix you throw in a car/truck you don't like/care about very much. Who knows what that crap does to bearings, etc.
    Oil goes in crankcase, and thats it.
    #20