Also check to see if your manual gives a clutch throw distance... A measurement with a dial indicator, generally diagnosis whether or not you've got a problem on the linkage end... or a problem inside the basket. Not enough throw is the same as clutch drag. Will it slip into neutral just before coming to a stop, if you pre-load the shift lever with a toe's weight of pressure? Sometimes just feathering the clutch enough to break the power while creeping forward is enough to find neutral. Other than sometimes finds salvation is to rev the engine slightly 300-400 rpm over idle with the clutch pulled in to the grip, then put the same light pressure on the shifter as the revs fall and see if it snicks into neutral. When the engine is off there isn't any drag on the faces of the dogs from rotational force, so falling rpms can sometimes loosen enough if you find the transition back down to idle speed about the same time you hit the lever. A blend of the two, is rolling the bike a 1/4 wheel turn backward while letting the revs fall and snicking the gear lever up with preload before pulling the clutch. The mainshafts are stopped, while the clutch is spinning, but if you've got drag on the clutch the primary gear in the trans has pressure loaded on it, rotating the rear wheel can sometimes find the happy place. Sometimes running shell Rotella T oil makes things a bit easier to find. I've had a few bikes that would shear down oil until they were hard to shift/neutral. Thinner weight than spec or thicker weight than spec... Heavy truck engine oil and gear box oil sometimes makes a big difference in how easy things find neutral, particularly if there is a difference between hot and cold.