Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Chop Chop, Oct 27, 2010.
Front with Excel A60 rim
Rear with Excel 2.5in rim and 45t supersprox.
very nice !
Like the gold, I mean might as well have some BLING if you're upgrading.
Hopefully someday I can grow up to have durable, round wheels like that!
Thanks for posting.
you'd just bend/tweak them right away on one of your adventures. exactly as it should be!
great lookin' wheels!
Whats the weight difference between old and the new, anybody?
You mean the regular excel rim and the a60 excel?
Excels new A60 rims are structurally 15% stronger than current Excel Takasago Signature Series Rims, yet A60 rims remain the same weight.
A60s new V-curve profile helps reduce mud buildup, keeping your bike lighter than your competition.
A60 is available in black and is characterized by a metallic silver pinstripe along the edge of the rim giving A60 a distinct works look.
A60 rims can be laced to stock, Excel Pro Series or Talon Ultra Lite-II hubs.
Developed for the professional racer looking for increased wheel strength and durability.
A60 rims are available in the following sizes:
o 21 x 1.60, 19 x 1.85, 19 x 2.15.
Retail prices begin at $193.18 for a front 21 x 1.60 rim
No, I mean the entire wheel assembly. Stock cast iron hubs with the stock rims vs the aluminum hubs and adapters with narrower lightweight aluminum rims.
Cast iron hubs?!?They hapen to be aluminium ones and probably lighter than billet hubs.. Strenght is then completely different thing..
ballpark price?... I almost hate to ask because I already know it's an arm and a leg...
Damn your right, there goes my lightening project. Sure feels like cast iron trying to lift it.
Well that is good since mine feels like lead!
But they look purty
I should have mentioned the rear is an 18in rim, though you would have guessed by the 2.5in width.
Rear hub is for a ktm 950adv/se with an adapter plate for the brake disc and associated spacers.
The rear weight difference on a one for one basis (tyre, tube, sprocket, brake disc etc) + two rimlocks was only a 100g. But now I have a much stronger rim and hopefully will not dent it.
Will get back to you on the weight difference for the front.
The front btw is running a tubliss system from nuetech. Have ridden about 6000km with this with no problems at all (4000km dirt,2000km tar) but tyre is now shagged.
No ABS mate.
Very nice wheels indeed!
How is the road handling with the 1.6" front?
To be honest, I don't notice any real difference other than riding on knobbies. In tight corners on road I try and ride it more like sports bike and "pretend" to hangoff a little. Only so I am not pushing the outer of the rubber as much and have more of contact patch.
Front around $700US
Rear around $1000US
A lot of $$$ I know, but you guys are lucky in the good ole US of A. You have such a wide choice and availability of parts/equipment etc. But your prices are what gets us going in the land of the forgotten. Generally you pay about half of what we pay in Oz for the same stuff (not that the hubs are available here). And with our dollar at an all time high, its happy days for us ATM.
speaking from a former road-racers point of view ,,i too used to hang-off in those corners.....
However one day with Laine Mac Tague.... http://earthrider-amgi.blogspot.com/ focusing on the art of 'counter-steering'
completely turned my thinking around on the matter.....it was the single most important tool i have acquired for my bag of tricks....
my anxiety level with 21/18 knobbies on my 'dirterized 1200GS took a major dive ,,my confidence shot up immensely...
i now offer free tutorials for any rider switching to a 21 front wheel...
just look at all the super-motard riders,,,they are constantly counter-steering,,,why???...it WORKS