WR250R Data, Specs and How-to's

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by MoBill, Jan 2, 2010.

  1. Lucky:)

    Lucky:) Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    245
    Looks cool. :)
    I would prefer less modifications.
    #61
  2. MoBill

    MoBill Smiles when says dat

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    14,374
    Location:
    NJ
    Lucky, it's not something I ever captured here--but a a good consensus can be had quickly on the WR250R megathread.

    If you do, feel free to come back and post back the recommendations here, I'll update the earlier posts.
    #62
  3. CJ

    CJ Wheelin' & Dealin'

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2015
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    Vancouver BC
    Can someone explain what is being discussed please?

    #63
  4. DutchTerror

    DutchTerror Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2012
    Oddometer:
    485
    Location:
    Channahon, IL
    This is the alternate mode of the trip computer. It lets you time stages, adjust and stop the stopwatch, adjust your trip meter to match roll charts, etc.
    #64
  5. OlDirt58

    OlDirt58 Pucker bush dodger

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    284
    Location:
    So Cal
    Nice to see this being compiled. So much activity surrounding these bikes, I was a recipient as well as a contributor back then. And yet, the activity continues. New bikes, new owners of older bikes. Though mine is gone (stolen last year) I still check the sites every now and then. KUDOS to the author of the thread. I think I still have a folder with all the fuel maps I could find plus some Hybrids I combined for the Power Commander PClll. Give me an e-mail and I will send the file for the cause. PLUS, if anyone is looking for stock parts, I have all the smog stuff, stock gas tank, stock exhaust and who knows what else, nothing was cannibalized. Shoot me a PM, local preferred (Orange County Ca).
    #65
  6. MoBill

    MoBill Smiles when says dat

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    14,374
    Location:
    NJ
    Hooah. I'm still available if you folks have questions or want data.
    #66
  7. YZach

    YZach n00b

    Joined:
    May 3, 2015
    Oddometer:
    1
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    Hi guys,

    Just picked up a '15MY two weeks ago. Since then I've installed the usual mods (FMF powerbomb+Q4, FMF power programmer, AIS/EXUP removal, airbox mod).

    However, after installing the engine mods I have run into a problem. Whenever I rev the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in (this problem does not exist in neutral) it cuts out at low rpm and sometimes stalls when cold. I am currently running the stock FMF programmer settings and have no issue from 1/4 throttle on up, which I why I resorted to the CO settings.

    The info in this thread seems to indicate there are 30 adjustments in either direction. Well, my '15 has -126 and +128 settings! Anyway, I had to go all the way up to +65 to remedy the cutting out/stalling issue. Is this normal?
    #67
  8. OlDirt58

    OlDirt58 Pucker bush dodger

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    284
    Location:
    So Cal
    Go to this site, there is a lot of information on the settings that you should be using, you are too lean on one of the settings.

    http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/

    With the pipe and air box mods, stock settings won't be enough fuel.
    #68
  9. NSrider

    NSrider Newfie

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    71
    Location:
    Canada's Ocean Playground
    Rear Axle Torque: 90 ft-lbs
    That seem a little excessive to me. Thats as much as my FJR1300 calls for.
    #69
  10. MoBill

    MoBill Smiles when says dat

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    14,374
    Location:
    NJ
    17,000 miles on mine when I sold it and I always ran it at spec. I'd say trust the manual.
    #70
  11. I have about that on mine now. I bring it up to the spec 90 ftlbs. I had a brain cramp and used the 60 something for the front by mistake and it slipped I think. But then I was slippin' too so who knows. By now if it was a misprint it would have been cleared up in the owners manual.
    #71
  12. I put an IMS 3.1 gal on my bike a couple years ago. Last summer was exceptionally hot for a while and I was having what felt like old fashioned vapor lock or something. Is that something that happens with injection too?
    Sudden loss of power maybe a very short sputter then dead acts like its out of fuel. Throttle pumping was a mere act of desparation. No apparent problem with elect. as the headlights, starter, fuel pump all were functioning while I sat around waiting for it to get happy and start back up. (an hour and a half or three minutes)

    I noticed the nice shiny heat shielding on the bottom of the stock metal tank and decided to try putting some heat shielding on the plastic one. I bought it used locally and it came with no heat shielding on it.

    Can I trust this thing now? I ride solo a lot and my riding boots hurt real bad when I try hiking back to camp in them:kurt

    Anyone else have a similar issue?

    Thx guys
    #72
  13. jkstehn

    jkstehn Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    Oro Valley, AZ
    What year is the bike? Sounds like the bad fuel pump problem that hit mostly 2008 bikes. But other years had scattered problems.

    One of our lIst members here dissected a fuel pump and felt that tolerances inside the fuel pump were so tight that when the impeller expanded ever so slightly with high heat the pump would sieze. Let it cool down and it behaves again.

    There is an updated fuel pump. Best prices in the past were found at Service Honda.

    Solution : new pump

    Check here : http://www.basherdesigns.com/2011/07/26/wr-fuel-pump-replacement/

    Good luck
    #73
  14. andy3d

    andy3d Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2013
    Oddometer:
    66
    Location:
    Socal, CA
    I know there have been may posts on this topic - but I'm going ahead anyway!!

    I removed all these parts from my WR250R and weighted them - for total loss of 20.56 Lb !

    <iframe src="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...single=true&amp;widget=true&amp;headers=false"></iframe>

    . grams pounds cost
    AIS System 524 1.16 $20
    EXUP controller 500 1.10 free
    Tool Box 645 1.42 free
    Charcoal canister 632 1.39 free
    side stand checker 107 0.24 free
    stock sprocket 851 1.88 $65 light weight Rethnal
    helmet lock 159 0.35 free
    plastic engine protection 93 0.21 free
    stock mirrors 633 1.40 free
    passanger pegs 755 1.66 free
    airbox flapper 258 0.57 free
    stock tail (excluding tail light) 737 1.62 free

    FMF exhauts + programmer 4.5 around $800
    lithuim battery 3.1 $160

    20.59 Pounds Total

    I've added a 3 Lb bash plate and hand guards, but not counting the hand guards as I also switch the stock steal bars for light weight Renthal bar so weight is about the same.

    Thanks to the help of http://www.wrrdualsport.com/ on the how-to's
    #74
  15. Magile

    Magile Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,213
    Location:
    HVL, NC
    #75
  16. Magile

    Magile Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,213
    Location:
    HVL, NC
    #76
  17. jimmr

    jimmr Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,086
    Location:
    NJ
    #77
  18. CJ

    CJ Wheelin' & Dealin'

    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2015
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    Vancouver BC
    #78
  19. Critt

    Critt Rambling on

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2010
    Oddometer:
    840
    Location:
    Calgary
  20. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    39,054
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    DIAG mode resources:

    monitor/accuator codes once in diag:
    http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/cpp-203/fuel-system/diagnostic-monitoring-codes/
    error codes:
    http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/cpp-203/fuel-system/fuel-injection-dtc-chart/

    How to access CO mode:

    To access the controls for making these changes, you must first make a jumper wire to ground (did mine to the negative battery terminal) from the "extra" black wire in the connector for the lean angle sensor underneath the seat. There are three wires on one side of the connector that are used by the LAS and another black one on the opposite side that connects to nothing. This is probably used by the dealer to connect to Yamaha's diagnostic software.

    Anyway, after you've done that, you can then enter the "CO" mode to lean out or richen up the air/fuel mixture. The range is from +30 to -30 (sixty-one possible settings including "0").

    Plus numbers richen the mixture; minus number make it more lean. Mine from the factory was set at -3 and after riding a bit I changed it first to 0 and it's now set at +2. The nice thing is that you can adjust it on the fly to as many different settings as you want and it saves the last number used when the key is turned off.

    To access the CO settings you do the following (after grounding the above-mentioned wire):

    1. Hold down the "reset" and "select 1" buttons on the insturment cluster at the same time.

    2. Turn on the key (but don't press the starter button) while continuing to hold these two buttons. After 8 seconds the display will read "diag" or something like that.

    3. Once in the "diag" screen, press the "select 1" button only. The display will change to "CO"

    4. Press both "reset" and "select 1" again (same as step 1) and after 3 seconds the display will show "0" on the left and "C1" on the right.

    5. Again press both "reset" and "select 1" for another three seconds and the display changes to "C1" at top right with a number shown below. This number is the current CO setting (it will be somewhere from -30 to +30)

    6. Now start the bike. At the top left you'll have a digital tachometer. Also, while in this mode no mileage is recorded on the odometer.

    7. To change a setting, use the "select 1" button to make the numbers higher (+) or the "reset" button to make them lower (-). When you turn off the ignition the bike is set to whatever number you had set at that time.

    "Dirtytrixx400 told me that you can't tell anything from just blipping the throttle in the garage. So what we did was ride for a bit with the stock setting of -3. After riding for a few minutes I confirmed there was a hesitation off idle when opening the throttle.

    Next we changed to a setting of 0 (three points richer) and the hesitation improved, but was still there a little.

    Finally changed it to +2 and the bike RIPPED! He said I may need to tweak it a bit more later when the weather warms up. But it's very easy to do."
    #80
    crazyal and JAS4 like this.