WR400F WR426F DC Charging system without stator mod !!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Ride365, Mar 29, 2017.

  1. Ride365

    Ride365 #DirtLivesMatter

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    211
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    La Center - Highlands
    * DISCLAIMER *
    This is working for ME. Proceed at your own risk!

    This is for the WR's WITHOUT the magic button, and the stator is grounded to the frame. WR400F and WR426F have the same schematic, so it will work for both. I've run it to work & back twice 15 miles & 45 minutes each way with good results.

    I had been running the setup in Fig 2. The dual sport kit was on it's own DC circuit, but the battery would need to be pulled and re-charged every now and then. It lasted an impressive 5 days while running the WABDR.

    However, I wasn't satisfied with that, so here we go...

    Fig 1: Original Wiring Diagram
    [​IMG]


    Fig 2: This system works fine, but does not charge the battery. It'll last almost 5 days with minimal turn signal use & no horn use.
    >Added the Tusk wiring harness w/ battery, horn, tail, turn, brake lights. All isolated on their own DC Circuit with an on/off switch.
    >Replaced the stock headlight on/off switch with the Tusk Off/Low/High switch on the stock AC circuit (this is how it's designed to work & gives you hi/low beam).

    [​IMG]

    Fig 3 (the money shot):
    >Disconnect the stock AC regulator, and wire the Yellow & Black wires to the Rectifier/Regulator's 2 yellow wires. I highly recommend the Trail Tech one that has adjustable voltage & optional relay.
    >Tie the R/R's Red & Black wires in to the Tusk Battery's Red & Black wires.
    >Move the Tusk headlight switch over to the DC wiring (& replace with LED headlight...optional, but optimal. The RTD M:02E 35 watt has worked great on all 3 bikes I've put it on. I bought them for 19.99 each.)
    >The metal casing on the Rectifier/Regulator must be isolated from the frame (AC) ground, and none of the DC components can be grounded to the frame. This will provide a DC/charging system. I zip-tied both the battery and Reg/Rect to the plastic airbox lid.
    >Adjust the voltage at idle to 13.8v DC

    [​IMG]
    #1
    Vincenthdfan likes this.
  2. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer Supporter

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    ya.... sounds like it will work. as you say though, the frame can't be part of the DC circuit unless you lift the stator's ground.

    most RRs are isolated. ohm check the RRs black wire to it's case. no special mounting if it reads infinite.

    17.8v at high RPM sounds bad to me. hook up a load & try it
    #2
  3. Ride365

    Ride365 #DirtLivesMatter

    Joined:
    May 23, 2012
    Oddometer:
    211
    Location:
    La Center - Highlands
    Thanks for the reply.

    This particular RR is not isolated, unfortunately.

    At idle with all the lights on & battery hooked up it generates 12.5 - 13.2 volts. All lights are LED and the battery is fully charged. I didn't have enough hands to rev it up, but will check that tonight.

    Cheers.
    #3
  4. Vincenthdfan

    Vincenthdfan Long timer

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    Any updates to this yet??

    I am wanting to install a Tusk Kit on my 99 WR400F and am eagerly awaiting the outcome of this! :ricky
    #4
  5. Ride365

    Ride365 #DirtLivesMatter

    Joined:
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    I got everything hooked up & it runs fine. I'm waiting to see if the battery is actually getting charged before a final verdict.

    I got a trail tech adjustable voltage reg/rect. I don't trust my circuit tester, though, because it was reading 15v off a 12v battery...have to find my good one.

    Stay tuned...
    #5
    Vincenthdfan likes this.
  6. Ride365

    Ride365 #DirtLivesMatter

    Joined:
    May 23, 2012
    Oddometer:
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    The battery after the first day of commuting to work was at ~10v. My (bad) circuit tester was running a few volts high, so I had adjusted the output too low.

    I found my good one & made a proper adjustment. The battery is now fully charged after another day of commuting, so I'm claiming success on this one!

    :D
    #6
    Vincenthdfan likes this.
  7. Vincenthdfan

    Vincenthdfan Long timer

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    Awesome news!

    Thanks so much for the update...perfect timing.

    Working on my 99 WR400F tonight in fact....switching my knobby tires over to DOT knob's and my Tusk kit is in the mail on its way as we speak!

    I'm putting a YZ rear fender on too for a clean install.

    Didn't really need another dual sport (already have a DR650 and KTM 525EXC) as much as I want to be able to jump on the road to connect trail sections with the WR without worries of tickets!

    I just love this old WR, fits me like a glove and I've owned it since new...this will give it a new lease on life.

    Got any pics of yours?
    #7
  8. Ride365

    Ride365 #DirtLivesMatter

    Joined:
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    No good pics, unfortunately ;)
    #8
  9. CakeDragon

    CakeDragon n00b

    Joined:
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    Indianapolis, IN
    Has anyone else tried this? The Fig. 3 description says to disconnect the stock Reg from the stator and run the Yellow&Black to your new R/R...but then the diagram only disconnects the Yellow, as the black is a frame ground..The diagram shows hooking the Stator Yellow to the R/R and running the R/R Black to an AC ground.

    If you disconnect the stator completely and wire it's Y/B to your R/R then the bottom half of your Diagram is unpowered...so you have to leave the stator grounded to the frame..and you have to ground your R/R to the frame...I'm no electrician but it looks like the frame is either getting AC and DC power to it..

    Let's call Yellow + and Black (Ground) -, even on the AC circuit.. just for the sake of typing ez...
    So we've got Stator + into R/R, Stator - ground to frame. Then we've got R/R input from Stator + and AC Frame Ground.


    I legit bought all the stuff because you said this works...it hasn't arrived in the mail yet, but I'm going to assume it doesn't work as advertised...or, at least, is extremely inefficient. Probably the answer is to have the stator Y/B run to the R/R...and move the ground for the bottom half of diagram to the R/R...and have your Stator produce AC, your R/R convert all of it to DC, and run the entire bike on DC. I don't know which components, if any, require AC power and that's my connundrum. I guess I'll figure it out if your schematic/description doesn't work..


    Does an R/R work in the opposite direction? Once Y/B(G) go through your R/R, through your switches and your lights, and back to the R/R..does it convert it back to AC before it sends it back to the AC Ground? 'cuz when you pull that Yellow from between your stock Reg and your stator and send it into a DC circuit..it must come back to an AC ground at some point otherwise it's an incomplete circuit...so either the R/R converts AC to DC, then DC to AC to ground..or the frame is getting AC+Dc..

    Even the original china diagram is crazy..it's got the factory Regulator routed IN PARALLEL to the lights.. I guess you're just expected to know that the Points on the Lines aren't splice junctions, they're entire re-routes?
    #9