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Wunderlich Woes

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by HickOnACrick, Oct 7, 2016.

  1. HickOnACrick

    HickOnACrick Groovinator

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    Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere, but I have been searching the web, ADV, and other parallel twin forums trying to find good installation instructions for Wunderlich products, and I have not found anything remotely helpful.

    Specifically, I am trying to install the Extreme Skid Plate. The included installation instructions are worthless...just vague photos of an F800GSA, and there are about 35 parts included! :dirtdog 35 parts for a freaking skidplate!!! WTF??

    Link to the installation instructions: http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/instructions/15984-9404.pdf

    Anyway, if anyone has installed one of these on an F700GS, I would love some help.

    By the way, I installed a Rekluse clutch, Touratech hand guards, and the Wunderlich Crash Bars (including the tank protectors) today. Installing the crash bars from Wunderlich took twice as long as the Rekluse because the instructions were almost pointless. In hindsight, I should have taken a video of the crashbar installation because I know there are others out there who are probably pulling their hair out right now.

    I have heavily farkled a DRZ400, KTM 950SE, KTM 500 XCW, and R1200GSA in the past and never have I encountered so much frustration as I have installing Wunderlich products.
    #1
  2. shuswap1

    shuswap1 Long timer

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    Hick, you probably just need a nap after all that farkling, it'll all make more sense after a snooze
    #2
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  3. HickOnACrick

    HickOnACrick Groovinator

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    You are correct...Got up this morning and just pieced it all together. The Wunderlich instructions were worthless, I just kinda figured it out.
    #3
  4. HickOnACrick

    HickOnACrick Groovinator

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    The kit comes with 3 sets of rubber grommets, two sets are threaded only to receive bolts (female), the other set has a bolt attached on one end (male) and is threaded to receive a bolt on the other end (female). In the photos, I have used the small bolts to attach the female-only grommets to the mounting bracket.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The pass-through bolt will be attached to the motor block - the photo above shows where it is placed, but you need to remove it before mounting it. It is a 6mm hex on one side and a 13mm nylon lock nut on the other.

    There are 2 different types of washers - one set is wavy, don't use that set for the pass-through bolt. Also, the black spacer in the photo is optional and would not fit on the F700GS, so I left it out in the final install. The mounting plate has recessed bolt holes for the torx screws so that is easy to figure out.

    This is the bottom of the bike/oil pan. You can see a vent tube running across the oil pan. Snip the plastic wire tie to free the tube, then use a set of pliers to remove the plastic piece that is inserted into the oil pan - just pull it out and discard it. Now there are two recessed threaded holes at the front of the oil pan. These will be used for the mounting bracket. Both will have the taller, thinner aluminum spacers placed into them, then the mounting bracket will be attached with two torx bolts.

    [​IMG]

    These are the two sets of aluminum spacers. The taller set with the smaller diameter will be used for the mounting bracket. The smaller, wider set is used later when the skid plate is mounted.

    [​IMG]

    These are the bolts with the taller spacers - used for the mounting bracket:

    [​IMG]

    Mounting bracket installed. It is difficult to see in this picture, but the two taller spacers are between the mounting bracket and the oil pan. The two bolts you see in the picture (one obscured by the vent tube) are the bolts that pass through the spacers and thread into the oil pan.

    [​IMG]

    Then I zip-tied the vent hose to the mounting bracket, making sure it did not rest against anything that would get too hot. Next I threaded these two grommets into the oil pan toward the rear of the bike.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now you will see two torx bolts that are beveled. These will attach the skid plate to the grommets in the photo above. The bolt passes through the skid plate, then passes through a wavy washer, then through the remaining aluminum spacers, and then threads into the grommets.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I only showed the sequence so it is clear. There is no way to do this without holding the skid plate while you finesse everything into place. Once I got the bolt passed through the washer and spacer, I just tightened it enough to hold it up. It is also easier to do the right side of the bike first, then move to the left as the exhaust makes it harder on the right. Of note, with the krauser crash bars, the skid plate needs to be slid from the front, toward the back of the bike in order to clear the bars.

    Next, I inserted the remaining torx bolts into the mounting plate. I left all the bolts loose, only threading them enough to hold up the plate, because that makes it easier to get all the other bolts started. Once all the bolts are finger-tight, I torqued them down.
    [​IMG]

    I know this seems simple enough, but I have installed a number of skid plates in the past, and this one left me scratching my head. Needless to say, I am NOT looking forward to my next oil change.
    #4
  5. HickOnACrick

    HickOnACrick Groovinator

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    Okay, now the Krauser crash bars...

    The Wunderlich instructions are a little clearer than those of the skid plate, but still grossly inadequate for the real world.

    To begin, the bike can't be on the center stand, it needs to be on the side stand or a wheel lock. Use a spring pull tool to undo the springs from the center stand. Leave the springs attached to the frame. Next remove the two plastic frame protectors from the engine trellis frame. I don't have a photo, but they are black, and about the diameter of a half dollar. They pop out easily with a screwdriver. They are no longer needed.

    Decide which crash bar goes on the left, and which goes on the right. Wunderlich tells you to do the left side first. The first attachment is to the trellis frame where the plastic pieces were just removed. There is a torx bolt inside that needs to be removed. Once removed it is no longer needed.

    Attach the crash bar to the trellis using the longest bolt in the kit, passed through the longest spacer in the kit. Only finger tighten enough to hold it there. In the photo, it is the attachment point above the clutch cover and aft of the cylinders. In the photo, the bike is on the center stand, but I only did that after everything was installed.

    [​IMG]

    Next, mount the bottom of the crash bars. The instructions are pretty clear as to what hardware to use, but it is helpful to have a metric ruler or calipers to differentiate the bolts by their length.

    Also, make sure the part of the crash bar that will attach near the center stand is oriented correctly (see photo below) - it needs to pass inside the side stand and can get hung up on it requiring that you redo everything (my mistake - your benefit).
    [​IMG]

    The left-sided attachment to the motor use a spacer on the front attachment, and no spacer on the aft attachment. The front attachment point requires an Allen wrench with a ball end because you can't get a tool to slide into the space straight. It has to be secured using the Allen wrench at an angle. Again, only finger tighten these bolts as it makes it easier to get all the other attachment points secured...everything will be torqued down at the end. It could be very easy to cross-thread any of the attachment points, so be patient and take your time. Also, the bars often require some tugging and pulling to get them to line up with the holes perfectly.

    Photo of the left-sided engine attachment points:
    [​IMG]

    Now remove the OEM bolt that secures the center stand on the left. Remember to remove the spring first. The bolt is a bitch to get out because the nut requires you to use channel locks or vice grips to hold it while unthreading the bolt. The kit has a replacement bolt and nylon locking nut. Again, only finger-tighten at this point.

    Now on to the right side: Basically you just repeat what was done on the left with one exception - the left and right crash bars pass in front of the radiator. One side is inserted into the other and secured using a small 3mm lock nut. It is very difficult to attach the right side and keep the two sides married in front of the radiator, especially when working alone, but I was patient and got it to work.

    The frame-trellis attachment on the right is pretty straight forward with one exception: there is a spacer between the motor and the trellis frame that falls out when you remove the OEM bolt. I used a piece of duck tape to hold it in place when I attached the crash bar and that worked well enough to get the kit bolt started.

    The motor mounting points on the right use two spacers (longer than the spacer on the left).
    [​IMG]

    Make sure you remove the spring on the center stand before removing the OEM bolt on the right.

    I needed to use ratchet-style tie downs to get the bars in the proper position(s) in order to get the threads started. I was working alone and needed these because I couldn't push/pull the bars into position, hold them, then thread the bolts.

    Okay, now that all the attachment points are lightly secure, it's time to torque it all down. Begin with the left-side front engine attachment point. This requires the ball-ended Allen wrench. If you don't do this bolt first, you will not be able to tighten it later. I also use the ratchet tie owns to pull the bars in front of the radiator closer together, then re-tightened the locking nut.

    When tightening the bolts to the center stand, I had to get creative and use a tourniquet method (straps and a tire iron) to pull the bars inward. Also, once the bolts are tightened on the center stand, the nuts get recessed into the frame and you can no longer get a socket or wrench on them. I used a big set of vice grips to clamp the frame and crash bars together so I could tighten these bolts as much as possible.
    [​IMG]
    #5
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  6. HickOnACrick

    HickOnACrick Groovinator

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    Now the tank-protector bars. The big deficiency in the instructions was where to put the mounting bracket. Here are some photos showing where it is attached:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This mounting bracket attaches to the frame where the instrument cluster is attached, then slides under the plastic under the beak. The Wunderlich instructions were very unclear about this. I spent about 40 minutes just figuring out where and how it mounted.

    Okay...the tank protector bars were a huge pain in the ass. Once I got the mounting bracket attached, the instructions were pretty clear. However, attaching the tank protectors to the crash bars required the use of a car jack and pry bars. I simply could not hold them in place while finessing the 5 separate pieces needed to mount it all together.
    [​IMG]

    And finished:
    [​IMG]
    #6
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  7. shuswap1

    shuswap1 Long timer

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    Nicely done, nicely documented, will certainly assist many others!
    #7