Wypers do Mexico

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Chriswyper, Dec 5, 2019.

  1. liv2day

    liv2day Life is about how you handle Plan B Supporter

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    Nice updates @Chriswyper! Really cool of you to help the homeowner with his stuff, looks like he has a great place overlooking Bahia Concepcion? Have a buddy with a house just north of Posada that's like that - amazing views. Also have a friend with a place in Mulege; we hit that town when I was there last year.

    One place I didn't explore is Agua Verde, have seen pictures of it and I'm definitely going to camp there a couple nights when I have an opportunity to ride down there again.

    Great pics and so cool to see you guys having a good time. La Huerta was booked solid when we swung through San Ignacio, stayed at a great, inexpensive place just up the street on our trek back, hit Rice & Beans on the way down. The town square is awesome...did you stop for ice cream?

    Appreciate the updates, keep 'em coming :nod :nod
    #41
  2. advrockrider

    advrockrider Long timer

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    You have so much more Baja to see! You will love it all, keep the report coming...
    #42
  3. Chriswyper

    Chriswyper Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Perth
    Peter’s tyres are fine, I think he is carrying less weight and less horsepower. And doesn’t feel the need to spit gravel out the back like the KTM 1190 Super-obnoxious wants to.

    We were aiming for Puerto San Carlos, because we liked the sea, and it sounded a bit like a Falklands battle.
    First impressions were not good, an oil fired power plant, rotten fish and dirt streets.
    We tried a hotel out near the ocean but it was surrounded by barking dogs and squalor.

    Google recommended two others and we settled on the improbably named Hotel Alcatraz. It was clean, had a courtyard and “agua caliente” which we had learnt to ask for a demonstration of.

    We sat down for a beer and one of the ladies started cooking potatoes in the open kitchen at one side of the hacienda. I asked who she was cooking for - us of course! I guess that settled where we would eat,

    The food was fantastic, even if it was a little expensive. I think that the Alcatraz was the best hotel of the trip so far. Worth a visit to San Carlos just to stay there.

    Around 6pm we heard a couple of quarter litre bikes chug down the street and they turned into the courtyard. We met Amber and Dave from York PA. I have an office in York and know the town - plus they shared a love of adventure biking so the evening was set. They joined us for dinner and we had a lovely evening telling tales and swapping stories of former glories.

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    #43
  4. Chriswyper

    Chriswyper Adventurer

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    From PCS we rode south down the rather dull route 1 to La Paz. Dave had suggested a detour on dirt to take us to an abandoned Jesuit monastery, but we didn’t feel like the hassle of riding fast on sand.
    Planned to stay in La Paz but we arrived early afternoon and thought it better to keep moving south. Made a cursory search fro tyres for me but Saturday afternoon everyone was closed.


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    Late afternoon made it to Los Barriles on the gulf coast. The first hotel we tried was really expensive, so we found Captain Nemos Landing at the edge of town. $68 for a room for 4, shared showers and kitchen. The co-sleeping was a PITA (one snores, one farts and one talks Cornish in his sleep) but we loved the shared kitchen/bar. Met some nice characters and cooked quesadillas and nachos con pica de Gallo.

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    I’d certainly rather stay in a hostel like this than a commercial hotel if only because of the interesting people.

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    #44
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  5. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

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    It's an ADVenture!
    #45
  6. cavebiker

    cavebiker Old School Adventurer

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    Captain Nemos in Los Barriles! Way cool. Cavegirl and I stayed the Winter of 16' just up the road. We are headed down again to Los Barriles in February. The best Mexican food can be had right in town at the mom and pop El Pirata Restaurant. Posts are looking good!
    #46
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  7. princess jamaica

    princess jamaica OLD DOG-NEW TRICKS

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    Stop on your way back north.
    #47
  8. Chriswyper

    Chriswyper Adventurer

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    After a quick walk around Los Barriles we rode the short distance to Cabo. First impressions were pretty rough, we got moved on from parking the bikes in the main square and they wanted P$60 an hour for parking. We booked into the Comfort Inn for $63 per night which was good value.

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    Had a walk around the marina and a beer on the quay. It was happy hour, but what a surprise the cheap drinks were all gone,

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    Don’t get me wrong, Cabo is Ok if you want to spend some money and have some fun. It’s a bit boring having people ask you if you want fishing/cigars/weed/blow at every corner. Didn’t feel like Mexico, was just USA without the rule of law.

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    After a bit of deliberation we decided to stay an extra night, partly so that Ben and I could go fishing but also so that Tony and Peter could explore. We ate in a dreadful Mexican fast food chain called VIPs. Think little chef with a Mexican theme with a chef who had never left Scunthorpe. Dreadful.
    At 5am Ben and me started walking to the fishing port. Didn’t realise how long the walk was so took a taxi the last few km. We didn’t book which was a small mistake as it takes a few minutes to organise the license. Got a panga for $175 inclusive of 2 licenses. Jose was the laconic skipper.

    He took us out of the harbour and around the point of Lands End where he dropped the first spread. Within a few minute we hooked up and I started to fight a decent sized Dorado. It was jumping a diving and seemed to take more line than I retrieved. After 10 minutes of hard fighting we saw a huge sea lion alongside the boat. He dived and a second later my line fell slack. All he left me was half a head.

    Ben took the next hit and landed a lovely dorado, maybe 5 kg,

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    We carried on west down the coast trolling all morning looking for some tuna with no luck. After 3 hours we headed east and just past Cabo hit a shoal of dolphin fish. Both rods went off and Jose dropped in a live bait so we had 3 fish at once. Got all three I got the boat somehow, 9BB39D5D-6F23-49F6-9A4A-CDC8A8F816A9.jpeg

    The sea lion had the nerve to follow us into port hoping for a snack. 73DBC1D0-B9E5-4E6C-95E6-8C3745BC435F.jpeg

    Attached Files:

    #48
  9. Chriswyper

    Chriswyper Adventurer

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    On New Year’s Eve we left CSL and headed up the Pacific coast back to La Paz. Stopped for a coffee at Checkez grill on the rt 19 which was another Baja tradition, with stickers on every surface and photos of trophy trucks all around.

    We had no been able to book the ferry online but I didn’t expect any problem getting a seat. We rocked up at the Baja Ferries office and took a number. It was full of cyclists and locals and the pleasant young lady spoke almost no English. Next ferry to Mazatlan would be 7th Jan! There was a ferry to Topolabampa on the 3rd so we booked this one. Tony gave the nice girl some cuddly stuffed koalas as a gift.

    Hit up the Honda dealer for some tyres for the KTM but they only had a very limited range. It would take them 10-12 days from Guadalajara they said. Future tip - new hard compound tyres before you start, and get a few sets sent on ahead...

    We had some time to kill now so we hit the gulf coast again looking for accomodation. Ride to Ensenada del Muertas but no hotels. We had passed the turning for El Sargent so we turned back and ride through the town. Lots of gringos on quad bikes and RZRs, plus kite surfing schools and hostels. We didn’t find anywhere cheap that we could all stay at so Ben and I took 3 nights in a cabina out of town and Peter and Tony stayed on the beach.

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    Had a wonderful meal in the Italian next to Km0 on the main drag. Wood fired pizza, pass with truffle oil, home made tiramisu. At least the American influence helps with some variety in the food.
    The next day we made our own huevos rancheros in the cabina and did some route planning. It was clear that Cancun would be too far, and even Mexico City would be a stretch. Our pace was slow, we were riding short days and had several stops and rest days. Decided that Durango, then Copper Canyon might be a more realistic goal.

    After a noon rainstorm Ben and I rode out to a track Amber and Dave had told us about. It was a right turn off 283 that took us over the mountains and onto the Sea of Cortés, then down to Los Barriles. The first couple of km is dirt with some light sand but soon you are climbing rocky gullys. Ok with no luggage or pillion but definitely skinny bike country.

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    After and hour we decided to turn around as we could see the end of the cliff track and didn’t want to have to come back from Buenavista by road. 03D08C49-0274-4B60-9A60-EF73F78E44D6.jpeg

    Coming back was easier for the most part. Found that the KTM was better with traction control on, you could just point and shoot on the hill climbs.

    There was one descent with a 50ft drop to the right with smooth dirt next to it, then rutted rocks. I was so focussed on not crashing that I crashed (well dropped the bike) More speed would have been OK, or choosing a line and sticking to it. I think I crashed in my head before I started the descent. No damage and was able to pick up the bike myself which was good to know. It’s heavier than a 350F....

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    New Year’s Day in town and many places were closed. In the end had a below average takeaway pizza from Playa Centrale.

    Attached Files:

    #49
  10. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

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    Great ADVenture guys. Good call on Topo ferry. Mazatlan is touristy any way and Cancun is a cheap Cabo....it's like CSL... a north American resort. Getting to CC is dreadful too.....over the mountains and then flat, flat, straight, flat. The main draw are the pyramids if you aren't partying not motorcycle riding. A lot of visitors never leave their hotel complex/pool.
    #50
  11. Chriswyper

    Chriswyper Adventurer

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    Had another day at El Sargente. It wasn’t my plan to spend too long in one place, but actually it was pretty good to have some enforced downtime. It’s a full time job trying to plan, read up on destinations, learn Spanish and eat and drink! Also trying to stay in touch with family plus solve all the little problems that you face. I think that travel has become more complicated since the advent of wireless communication. The first Spanish that Ben learnt was “Que es contraseda de wifi?”

    Anyway - we needed washing done ( every 4 days on average we get a bulk load). Good tip is to have a ziplock bag with socks, jocks and a tee shirt for each day. When it’s worn put it back in the bag and then into the wash sack.

    Haircuts all round (highlight was dad using his passport to show the mujere how to cut his hair). I couldn’t afford a shave as well so will have to leave the whiskers another month.

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    Ben and I wanted to hit the beach so we rode to the north tip of the town. I had been asked earlier by some Mexican tourists about the Playa agua caliente so we looked for that. Easy to find and great fun. There are some hydrothermal vents near the beach and you can sit in the shallows alternately getting scorched and frozen.





    We were getting a little fed up with restaurant food so decided to make the best of the little kitchenette. I bought some prawns and Tony some steak. We lit a BBQ and had a feast. Stuffed jalapeños, garlic prawns, fried potatoes and some of the best steak I have eaten. Fit for kings.

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    #51
  12. Chriswyper

    Chriswyper Adventurer

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    Friday 3rd was the day for the ferry. Had an easy ride back to La Paz. Needed to scaffa some ratchet straps (hard to find - Autozone did 4 for P$399)

    Cinnamon buns and a coffee in La Paz then up to the ferry port 20 km north. They said to arrive 3 hours early and I can see why. The TVIP inspection was thorough and they needed to see the VIN on each bike. Tough with luggage on. Then weighing and ticket checking. Tony had some cuddly koala toys that went down well with all the senoritas in the office.

    We sent Ben up to the ferry as a foot passenger to grab a table in the bar (astute move as it was crowded by the time we embarked). They kept us waiting for an hour or so but there was a steady queue of OAPs who wanted to have photos with the gringos. Kept us all amused.

    Loading onto the ferry was a bit stressful. It’s dark, hot and the deck is slippery. The anchor points are designed for large rigging gear not little hooks so it took a while before I was happy with my bike. The crossing is pretty sedate so the tie downs were not really needed in the end.

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    There was a massive queue for food at the bar/restaurant. Seems that it’s included in the ticket price. There rice and beans, with a little chicken for most people but none left by the time we got there, so we have fish and rice which was great.
    Not so great was the live entertainment, a couple of clowns shouting into an amplifier in Spanish for 3 hours. We actually used earplugs so we could keep playing euchre.

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    Unloading was straightforward enough if a little warm, and bad fumes from the diesels.

    We stayed at the Hotel Marina only 600m from the dock. The receptionist said we could park the bikes outside the rooms which was ideal.

    At 1130 pm I was woken up by the night manager asking me to move the bikes to the car park. I put on my MX boots, my boxers and a helmet and rode my bike around the pool at full noise in first gear. He didn’t ask me to move the other bikes.
    #52
  13. Chriswyper

    Chriswyper Adventurer

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    FEB67506-932B-485A-BAB2-809268985B01.jpeg First day in mainland Mexico proper. We set off at 7am when it was still really cold. One hour down the freeway to Cuidad for tacos. Breakfast of champions.

    It was easy to forget that this was Sinaloa, the narcotrafficante state. Just people, farmers and cowboys doing stuff.

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    We took the whole day to Mazatlán some 400 km. Great weather, perfect tarmac. Had trouble finding a decent hotel in Mazatlán so went to the Quality Inn. It’s an OK town, less Florida than CSL but still buckets of Corona and RZR for hire.




    We read about the divers who jump from the tower on the Malecón into the waves, sometimes into water only 6 ft deep. Luckily there was a tour group there when we stopped so we saw a diver. They risk their lives daily for small change so didn’t begrudge a tip.
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    Note : the $20 was from a gringo tourist, not me!


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    #53
  14. Tagman

    Tagman Been here awhile

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    Location:
    Durango Durango, Mexico
    It looks like you may be headed to Durango, I have plenty of room for 3 Wypers if you want a place to stay. I have a large house near centro. It'll only cost you your stories and 300 pesos for my cleaning lady to clean up after you.
    #54
  15. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

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    Wow nice offer Tagman.....these Wypers are a great family...three generations! Plus Uncle Tony!
    #55
  16. Tagman

    Tagman Been here awhile

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    Location:
    Durango Durango, Mexico
    My wife and I have been living and riding in Mexico for 9 years now. The generosity of the people we have met has been outstanding and we just like to give it back. We have met many wonderful ADVers passing thru and this offer is open to all travelers who want to experience Durango (The real Mexico!)
    #56
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  17. Chriswyper

    Chriswyper Adventurer

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    Thanks for the offer, we stayed one night in Durango in the Hotel Elizabeth. Lovely town. Now we are in Aguascalientes, just about to go exploring! Thanks again for the generous offer!
    #57
  18. rodrigzj

    rodrigzj Been here awhile

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    Dec 13, 2014
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    Culver City, CA
    You making your way to Juchipila Zacatecas?
    #58
  19. Chriswyper

    Chriswyper Adventurer

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    I hadn’t done much research on mainland Mexico before I left, but I had seen that the Spinoza del Diablo (Devils spine) ranked very high on the list of roads to try. I was a bit put off from talking to other bikers and Mexican mates who told me it was a dangerous road with lots of bandits, but we decided we could always pull over to the cuota if it was sketchy.

    We found one of best driving roads in the world. The tar is super smooth and the curves are well made. Views are great and the rocks kept me amused.

    Halfway up we rode though a town a saw a KTM 1090 parked outside a cafe. Of course we stopped for a chat. Teo was a lovely hombre and he was very enthusiastic to hear about our trip. We ate in the cafe and continued towards our planned destination of Durango.

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    My fuel was getting low (half way) but everyone else was alright so we queued for 20 mins to get a top off.

    There was snow on the roadside and kids making snowmen, girls having impromptu Instagram shoots in the snow. A far cry from the drug torn road of death we had been warned about. In a couple of places there was ice on the road, even when the air was 18C. Had to keep the bike upright and slow for those bits.

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    We decided that Durango was too far so stopped in the old timber own of El Salto. The first hotel I saw required a U turn, but whilst turning we spotted another, the Real del Bosque. Rooms were large, clean and had open fires with pine supplied. We went to the Supermarket for some beers and crisps, but the woman on the checkout could not sell us beer at 10 past 6 on a Sunday. Tried the Oxxo and same story, so I went to a bar who sold me six Modelos for P$100 as long as I hid them coming out.

    At dinner in the hotel a chap (Jairo) in klim pants sat next to us. I invited him to join out table and we got talking bikes, roads, politics, education, bikes and everything else. Jairo was a great guy and we agreed to meet for a chat at breakfast.

    Attached Files:

    #59
  20. Pete Pilot

    Pete Pilot Been here awhile

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    Prince Edward Island. Canada
    Enjoying the read. All of Mexico is a truly wonderful country. Have no doubt you guys will find Copper Canyon beautiful. Planning on next winter in Baja. Will watch Baja 1000 from Cocos compound. Snowed here all day and I be rather jealous. All the best petepilot.
    #60