Woke up in a very cold El Salto, frost on the seat of the bikes. We met Jairo for breakfast and he spent over an hour with us, giving us contacts for tyres, advice on where to store the bikes in Chihuahua and tons of other useful stuff. He even willingly let me try his new Africa Twin. My bikes have a rekluse auto clutch so I am used to the feeling of losing power at low revs- but the AT was a different beast. No clutch, no shift lever and LHRB. I only took it for a short ride so not very fair, but didn’t love it. I can’t imagine riding off-road without a clutch to slip. Nevertheless it was great to catch up with a fellow biker, and his introductions were wonderful. The road to Jurango is pretty easy going with few bends and hills. Nice enough scenery but not as dramatic as the climb to El Salto. We booked into the Hotel Elizabeth in the city centre. Free underground parking and clean rooms. Dropped off the washing at a lavaderia and explored the town. The city centre is pretty, with clean streets and strong civic pride. I tried a bag of crickets in chilli and lime, sort of crunchy and tasted of chilli and lime. Dinner was mediocre pizza at Corleone’s in the piazza. Found a cool record shop selling vinyl from the 60s to 90s - but the prices were $20-$50 and we couldn’t carry any.