Day 2 - Huallanca to Huanuco. Another adventure. From my research, I knew this day would be a challenge, because there was a dirt segment (per Maps.me), and Google was saying 4hr 55 min to Huanuco, which is on the long side of our comfort range. It seemed an overestimate to me, but in the end we took an hour longer than this!. Searching in Google, Bookings.com and iOverlander, we could find no options other than one "wild-camp" site (this means a place off the side of the road you can camp - but not an organized, official camp site) at a reasonable mid-way between Huallanca and Hunuco. There were lots of options for lodging in Hunuco, but at five hours driving, it seemed a stretch . So I didn't make a reservation in Hunuco, because I wasn't sure we'd make it that far. The wild-camp site on iOverlander was just before the end of the first (supposedly only) dirt section and I thought we'd see what time it was and how we were doing when we got there, and then decide if we'd go on to Huanuco or camp. Maps.me said the dirt section was 12 miles long - but it was probably more like 8 or 9, not counting the typical dirt patches of 100 ft to 100 yd along the way, and it was a pretty good road. We got to the campsite and ate lunch, and we were both confident we'd make it to Hunuco no problem (since it was paved the rest of the way - ha!). So I made a hotel reservation (there was cell service) and we headed out. Shortly after the lunch/camp spot, the pavement resumed. The road was narrow (mostly 1 to 1.5 lane) but mostly paved, and not much traffic - until we got to the summit at 4000m (~13,100') elevation. Shortly after that there was an "Inicio de Obra" sign, and from there to just a few miles outside of Hunuco, it was dirt, or sections of "used to maybe have been pavement", which in many cases was worse. Parts of it were ok, but it was long (about 35 miles) and downhill (dropping to 4000m to 2100m in Hunuco) with a fair amount of switchbacks, and the few parts that were bad were really bad, and those, along with an increase in (crazy) traffic the closer we got to Huanuco, and just the length of time on the road - it all took it's toll. I am pretty sure this was the longest day on the road we have done this entire trip - about 6 hrs on the road, and 8 hours total elapsed time. Carol's elbow and arm were hurting by the time we finished, but downhill is definitely easier for her; I think if the road we tried to Chavin (from Chacas) had been all downhill, she would have made it. And I am positive that it is the longest contiguous section of dirt road that Carol has ever ridden - and she survived! Carol rode the whole way on her own except for one section just after the summit, not long after the unplanned dirt section began. I watched some cars ahead of us struggle to get past this section, so I went first to see for myself, and almost immediately as I got into it told her through the coms; "No way you are doing this - wait for me!". It was so bad (see photo - as typical, reality was worse than the picture); it was the first time on this trip (outside of our off-road training class in Guatemala) that I've really thought "I'm not going to make this!" But I did - twice - her bike and mine, but it was close. I almost lost it with both bikes. This road section (maybe 50 yds) was a bulldozed section of rocks, not even dirt, just coarse rocks about 4 to 8 inches in diameter, with moguls, with a drop-off to one side. We seriously messed up not getting a video of me ridding the bikes through that! Carol made it more than half way through this last section without dropping her bike - then a pickup forced her into the sand on the side of the road and she went down (did I mention the bad drivers?!). Later, at the very end, she tried to stop for an oncoming bus and dropped it due to bad footing. At least that time people stopped to help - unlike with the pickup. Traffic on the last 1/3 of the 35 mile dirt section was really horrible; traffic volume significantly, and almost everyone was driving way to fast and expecting us to pull to the very edge so they could have more road than they needed - it really seemed that they expected us to yield for them, regardless of the situation. I was using lots of horn and sign language to try and get them to move over and slow down for Carol, who was behind me. We were stopped by a couple of policia about 1/2 way through that last dirt section; I am nearly positive were shaking people down. They started out asking us for our paperwork, and separated Carol and I. I walked over to Carol and one of them started shouting at me as I did, but I just ignored him and walked up beside her and said "lo sciento, no entiendo". I kept telling him we were going to Huanuco. They said a bunch more, pieces of which I got - but I just said "Somos estadounidenses, vamos a Huanuco", holding up my passport. They finally gave up, told me to move on and drive slowly and carefully, and never even looked at our passports. Later I thought I should have told them (re: their admonition to drive slowly and carefully) "Dices este a la camiones y autobuses" ("tell that to the trucks and buses"), but that would have revealed to much Spanish skills. Carol wanted to ask them questions about the road - I said "no, lets go while we can!" She had not picked up my vibe that this was probably a shake-down. The frustrating thing is that none of my research indicated that we should have expected these conditions on this last 35 miles section of road. But the new map I found, which mentioned earlier, from www. perut.org, did show it, very clearly. But in retrospect, if I had known about it, we might have diverted to the coast, and as it stands now, I am pleased with our position in terms of our path forward; we have a lot of options that we would not have had if we hadn't slogged through to Huanuo. And I was encouraged by this; Carol said to me that although she would never want to do that again (in total - length of time plus miles of dirt, etc. Nor would I), it did give her confidence for our future riding, especially in Patagonia where I have told her from the beginning I expect to have some significant portions of dirt. So I am glad to have the perut.org map for future planning, but I am also happy we stumbled into and through this experience of getting to from Huallanca to Huanuco, both because it was a confidence building one and because it has left us in a good position for our route options moving forward. We had a bit of an adventure finding a hotel in Huallanca. We had no reservations; there were no bookable hotels in the town in booking.com or other sites - though Google Maps showed several. So we just rode in "blind", only to find the first few we tried were either booked (!) or had no parking. We finally found the Hotel Mina Azul - which had vaccancy and parking, but no restaurant, which forced us out into the town for dinner and breakfast the next day. At dinner, Carol made friends with this little girl, who we think was the daughter of the cook. She really warmed up to us, and gave us both hugs Bullfight advertisement in Huallanco. As I mentioned earlier - this is a prevalent thing in the towns of Perú from our experience. "2 Torros de Muerte" = "Two bulls of death". THis is on the first section of road (Rt 3N) that we anticipated would be dirt - it was not so bad overall, but had some interesting portions! And the dirt section was shorter than expected by several miles - so we were happy with that. Beautiful views along the way (Rt 3N). Even when the road is paved, you have to watch out for animals. The road basically a single lane road. But there was little traffic (other than the animals) in this portion. And when the road turns to dirt ... you still have to watch out for animals! This was still in the section we expected to be dirt. Carol behind me, eating my dust. Our riding clothes were so dirty after this day! We (Carol) washed them at the hotel in Huanuco (Grand Hotel Hunuco; they let us use their industrial laundry), and the water was muddy.