Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by JagLite, Jan 2, 2017.
i really like the swingarm like that! is there a write up on how to zinc plate you recommend?
Thanks! I like the 2 tone swing arm look too.
I think it could look good painted a color to match the frame, or fuel tank, or fenders if the bike has a style color.
Like orange on a KTM...
Here are a couple links on zinc plating:
I will see if I can find the one that Steve gave me because I think it is a little easier to understand but I don't remember where I printed it out.
It is easy to do, there are just several steps that need to be done and a power source to make it work.
I needed personal instruction for it to make sense to me...
This is the power source I bought on Amazon and it works really nicely.
When I find more (easier) instructions I will post the links.
Ok, it only took an hour to find the links....
These are the instructions I printed out:
Zinc Plating at Home
There is a link in there where he got the information
and the build thread Fast Idle did for his Royal Enfield where I learned it was possible
Post 207 starts the instruction conversations
It is really neat to be able to do and I am just learning so my parts aren't near as nice as Fast Idle's.
In fact I'm going out to the shop to do more plating right... now!
More progress today so lots of fun in the shop.
Kickstand spring was rusty black so:
But I forgot to take an "after" picture...
But I forgot to take a "before" picture...
Foot peg bolts, pins, and springs, no "before" picture:
I was plating while removing and installing new steering stem bearings and cutting off the broken steering stops on the lower triple clamp:
End of day:
I was able to get a little accomplished today.
Footpeg bolts, pins, and springs:
(Notice the dished bolt heads and drilled pins, Honda really put some time and money making the 200R lighter)
After the second plating but not carded
Every other one carded:
All cleaned up:
Ready to bolt on:
I cleaned the bolt threads with a die and had to tap the threads in the frame because they didn't get plugged and were covered with the powder paint.
It took unbelievably long to tap the frame threads.
That paint is tough!
It was almost like cutting new threads in steel.
The tap started easy and the first 1/4" was easy but after that it was: turn 1/4, back up 1/4, turn 1/2, back up 1/2, and every two full turns, back the tap all the way out and clean off the debris, oil the tap and screw it in again.
But, once the threads were cleaned the bolts went in by finger.
One good bit of news was the email from XR's Only with a tracking number for my parts.
The ones they charged my card for a month ago...
I don't think I will be ordering from them again.
I ordered the handlebars through Amazon Thursday night and they will be delivered tomorrow.
That is how to run a business!
What a nice surprise to find my box from XR's and my handlebars arrived yesterday.
That meant I could do a bit of progress in the shop last night.
My modified footpegs look huge bolted on the frame so I set my boots on them to see if I made the pegs too big...
Ah, good, the footpegs are the right size, it is my boots that are Huge!
I installed the risers and handlebars then put the old seat and fuel tank in place to see how it looked, and felt with me aboard.
So far all is good.
I plan to rebuild the seat to raise the low spot an inch or so and a new cover.
And I will scrape clean the plastic tank to bring back the new white color.
Lot's of fun stuff to make and fit still ahead.
Sir , I am enjoying your build ! I am having shop envy . I almost picked up an XR 200 several years ago for a project but it was way to beat up to and the small problem of no title . Carry on , I will be following along .
I was out in the shop for a couple hours today and the first thing I did was open the package that came in the mail...
I wonder what it could be?
I have about 15 different orders on the way so it could be one of many...
The front fender
It is a CRF50 fender that I got just to see how it looked, I have a CRF80 fender on the way too.
Since I'm using the small wheels the fenders for 21" wheels look positively goofy.
Of course I forgot to take a picture of it on the bike...
But I stuck it on my street tracker for the fun of it:
I did my first plastic welding on the air filter side cover where the screw pocket had cracked off:
It was completely detached and now it is very strong.
Of course I forgot to take pictures of it after I sanded it down smooth and cleaned it up.
It looks great now. Really!
It will get painted black to match the rest of the airbox.
I am not putting side panels on the bike to cover things up.
Then I started cleaning the carb:
It was much cleaner inside than I expected:
Into the Pinesol for you!
Ready for the rebuild kit now... er, tomorrow.
While working on those things I had the kickstarter in the zinc tank.
I am doing the bottom half first, then tomorrow I will do the top half
Fun, fun, fun!
I like the zinking.
I didn't even think about zink plating my kickstart lever I modified for my bbr project. I was just going to paint it with silver hammer tone. are they zink plated from the factory? I think I need to invest in this home zink plating stuff
I would guess the kickstarter was zink plated from the factory but I don't know that.
It was quite rough textured so I cleaned it up with a quick run over with my sanding disc angle grinder.
I considered going over it with emory cloth to really smooth it before plating but this isn't a show bike.
My play time is limited so I try to spend it wisely.
I usually fail, but I try...
Man I wish you were closer, I have a 1991 I have owned since 1995.
I took a bad spill a few years ago right after a complete suspension overhaul and new tires and sprocket and bent the frame. I could use one of those frames to get it right again!
I hear you!
We get killed with shipping costs all the time.
I keep a watch on CL for XR200R's now and have only seen one in the past year.
It was missing the rear wheel and hadn't run in years, but for $50 I wanted it for engine parts.
Of course it sold immediately...
You do know that the frame can be straightened professionally don't you?
Finding a cheap parts bike would be less money though.
Fun in the shop yesterday afternoon.
I changed out all the parts in the carb rebuild kit...
But ended up with three (3!) new brass adjustment screws left over.
And one spring too.
I don't see anywhere those 3 brass screws and spring could go in this carb.
I am hoping that this rebuild kit has parts for several versions of the same carb so not all the parts will be used.
It is a Moose Racing rebuild kit if anyone is familiar with them.
I don't have a shop manual for the bike yet, so I removed and replaced one screw at a time.
Had quite a struggle getting the rubber o-ring out of the needle jet hole to put the new one in.
However, I can't figure out how to get the throttle cable housing (sheath?) out of the carb cap.
I just cut it short to rebuild the carb and have tried unscrewing but that did nothing, it rotates freely, I tried pulling but that didn't do it either.
I even took the carb off one of the parts bikes and I can't get the cable housing out of it either..
I feel rather stupid on this one.
I finished plating the kickstarter:
Not great but good enough for who it's for
And finished the airbox side cover:
And painted them with Krylon Fusion plastic paint:
I painted the right side of the airbox so they would match... more or less:
Yes, there is dust and junk in the wet paint from the overhead heater that blows everything around.
I forgot to turn the heat off.... again.
Oh well, it is just a play bike, not a show bike I keep telling myself.
damn it I have to look into zink plating big time now. that kicker came out great!!!!!! how much of an initial investment is there in the machines and chemicals?
The power source is the only expensive part at $90.
The one I got from Amazon is great.
TEKPOWER TP3005T (click link)
If you read the various links posted earlier by others you can see they used much cheaper power sources like a battery charger.
If you go that way, you also need a way to control the amperage current which I don't know anything about.
That's why I went with the more expensive power source that is designed to be voltage and amp current adjustable.
Read THIS LINK
Then you need several jars, tubs, buckets or whatever to put the various chemicals in.
The roll of zinc flashing from Lowe's Home Improvement was about $25
The chemicals cost about $30 or so.
Say $150 or so total if you go for the Tekpower.
Less than half that if you understand electrical power adjustability and can make your own.
Here is the leftover carb rebuild kit parts:
There isn't anywhere I can figure the 2 needles/screws could go.
The other part appears to be a needle seat but I don't know where it could go either.
Still haven't figured out how the throttle cable comes out of the top of the carb....
Yesterday my new clutch and carb cables, and brake pads arrived in the mail.
I installed the clutch cable and front brake pads.
I also put the airbox in the frame and set the tank, seat, and rear fender on to see how it looked:
Looks to me like the top part is the idle speed screw, the bottom is the float bowl drain screw, and the left part is the needle jet. The needle jet is usually pretty tight in the carb body, but comes out if you push it with something soft like a screwdriver handle.
I will look again.
I won't be surprised to see that with all my work on the carb, I didn't think to look at the screws on the outside...
I have the shop manual in the mail and when it gets here things should make more sense.
Any idea about the throttle cable stuck in the top of the carb cap?
This just in!!!
The suspension Guru, Rick, at Cogent Dynamics is building a custom shock for my pit bike
My bike is going to go from this:
In a very controlled manner