XR200R Pit Bike Project

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by JagLite, Jan 2, 2017.

  1. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer Supporter

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    I was asked if the bike looks odd from the rear with the sprocket spacers, so:

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    I don't think it looks too odd but it is different.
    The sprocket is in the same location as the stock wheel of course but the RM hub is not as wide as the Honda hub.
    The tire is also a bit narrower than the stock size 17" tire.
  2. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer Supporter

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    P arts arrived and were installed tonight.

    New chain slider guards:
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    Comparing my UHMW-PE swingarm protector with the factory Honda piece:

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    I will keep the one I made and see how long the rubber one lasts.

    The other guide in the top picture goes with the metal bracket and mounts under the chain at the frame crossing
    The bolt goes through the frame tab and through the bracket/rubber guide:

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    Here:

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    All parts installed:

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    Frame and swingarm are now well protected.

    Then I installed the master link in the chain and compressed the rear shock to align the axle, swingarm bolt, and cs sprocket before tightening the axle:

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    Now to make the aluminum side plates for the lower chain guide near the rear sprocket.

    And I have decided to put together a new muffler starting with an $18 muffler from Banggood:

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    Unfortunately it was scraped in shipping (the packaging was shredded in the mail) so now it has a lightning bolt :D

    It is what I have on my Rickman, they sound good, and are very light.
    I just need to find some 1 1/2" tube bends to weld a new midpipe for it.
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  3. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer Supporter

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    Weekend update.

    I was able to spend 4 hours in my shop Saturday, a real treat for me.

    I went through my small stash of bike exhaust systems and found a header from my DR650 that was the right size and had various bends that might work.

    Trial matching the shape I need:

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    Cut it an inch or two long on each end:
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    Cut and grind the ends to match:

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    Ready to prep for welding... next time.

    I also made the rear chain guide out of some aluminum plate I had:
    First cut both sides out oversize

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    Of course I got working away and forgot to take any in-progress pictures but here it is at 95%

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    I need to buy the correct size bolts and I will paint it black to help it not be so obvious.

    I started my work Saturday by making a throttle cable sleeve to take out the 1" excess of inner cable.
    Yes, I bought an inexpensive throttle cable that was supposed to be for the XR200R.
    It was $15 compared to $32 for the Honda part.
    Unfortunately, the outer housing is an inch short even with the adjuster maxed out.

    So I made my own cable fitting out of UHMW:

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    Sized to fit in the top of the carb just like the cable end fitting, a larger body bored to fit the end housing inside and take up the 1".

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    All looked good until I went to install it and discovered there is no room for it between the top of the carb and the gas tank.
    I need it to bend about 80 degrees...
    I will see if I can heat and bend it but I doubt it will work.
    I will see if I slot the side if it will work at the throttle end instead of the carb end.
    Next option is to cut one end off 1" and solder on a new end fitting.

    Oh, well, it was a fun exercise using my little lathe.
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  4. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer Supporter

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    2 hours in the shop today (after clearing the 10" of snow from last night) so I was able to do the final cutting on the exhaust pipe and weld it up.

    Final fitting:
    [​IMG]

    One thing I needed to do was to make the tubes as round as possible since each one was ovalized to some degree.

    I used a socket hammered in the end of the tube then I rotated the pipe around while tapping it with my hammer until it was nice and round, then I slipped the socket out:

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    And checking to make sure the end was as flat and as even as possible:

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    Then it got welded up:

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    If the little straight through muffler is too loud I will install a baffle plate I got from Bangood for $5:

    [​IMG]

    I have a terrible time welding the 16 gauge ss tubing with my mig setup.
    I seem to make about as many holes as the length of the weld.
    I always end up closing a weld hole with more weld and then grinding it smooth.
    I can weld a nice bead as long as I stay away from the edge of the tube.
    But welding the two tubes together with a butt joint is lousy for me.

    I did pipes with oxy/acet many, many years ago and I didn't find it near as difficult as with the mig.
    I eventually got the holes welded closed and it appears to be good.
    One final grinding and now ready for paint but I ran out of time tonight.
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  5. FR700

    FR700 Heckler ™©®℗

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    When you're welding thin wall tubing near the edge, such as a butt weld, the heat doesn't have anywhere to radiate to once it reaches that edge. The result is that the edge will melt away.

    Several tack welds around the tube, then start your weld from one of those. Very short runs, or the heat buildup will get you again.


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  6. MotoLodiek

    MotoLodiek Adventurer

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    Awesome project! Some nice tricks in here as well :)
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  7. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer Supporter

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    A little more progress last night as it gets closer to completion and I am crossing things off the list.

    I needed a bolt for the chain guide that has threads full length and I couldn't find one locally so I put a bolt in the vice and found the correct die in my budget tap & die set and set to it.

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    Worked great I am glad to say.
    So far I had only used my taps and dies to chase threads so this was the first use cutting new threads and I wondered how it would do.
    I'm not a fan of cheap tools but when a good set costs a LOT of money, I look on Amazon for an inexpensive tool with good reviews.
    This tap and die set got great reviews of what counts, the tools, the low star comments were about the quality of the plastic case they come in. :scratch

    I painted the chain guide plates black to make them less obvious:

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    And I bolted on the exhaust system:

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    Simple, clean, and very light.

    [​IMG]


    I also installed the throttle cable adjuster sleeve I made by cutting a slot in the side and installing it on the throttle end of the cable instead of the carb end.
    That was easy. Duh! :doh

    Then I spent some time in my thinking chair to get ready for the next step:


    :hide


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    Yes, quality thinking time helps projects get done by adding motivation! :thumb

    What's left?
    Bolt on the lower chain guide (after the paint dries), put gas in the tank, roll it off the build table, and take it for a spin!
    And a spin is probably what it will be since we have snow here now. :loco
    11 inches on Sunday.

    Will it start? :eyes
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  8. FR700

    FR700 Heckler ™©®℗

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    Looks factory.
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  9. motu

    motu Loose Pre Unit

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    I gas welded exhausts for 20 years before a MIG turned up, so gas welding is always my happy place. I prefer to tack, then finish with gas on butt joints...I'll MIG the lap joints.
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  10. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer Supporter

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    Thanks guys!
    I tacked the pipes in about 6 spots, then went around and tacked between those and all was well until I tried to connect the spot welds.
    I should have just kept tacking it until it was solid maybe? :dunno
    I am getting better at closing holes though.

    As someone mentioned, I'm not a welder, I'm a grinder :fpalm

    So, last night I bolted on the chain guide and I like it black much better than natural aluminum, or worse, if I had polished it as I had first planned.

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    I added the second brake line clamp:

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    Don't know if you can see it in this picture, but the 47 tooth sprocket is almost too big to be able to mount the chain guide.
    I had to use a 6mm rear bolt on the mount just to clear the teeth:

    [​IMG]
    No room for a spacer at all so I put nuts on both sides of the plate on the rear mount, and used Loctite of course.
    I slotted the rear hole in the mounting plates so that I could rotate the chain guide to get the best alignment and clearance depending on what size sprocket I am running. The next rear sprocket I get will be a few teeth smaller though. I can go up or down two teeth on the cs sprocket so I still have a lot of choices for gearing.

    I rounded the front of the plates so that I could rotate the chain guide in case you wondered.
    Yes, I think it looks a bit odd too. :hmmmmm

    I removed the fork guards and sprayed them with white gloss paint to try to get them to match the frame better than the dull ivory color.
    I couldn't tell any difference after painting them though. :dunno
    Maybe they will look better tonight.

    No work tonight though so Thursday night will be the first start (I hope!) in two years. :hide
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  11. motu

    motu Loose Pre Unit

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    Get a flappy disc, then you can become a sander. They make welds disapear, and others consider you a craftsman.
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  12. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer Supporter

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    Ah-ha! :rayof

    I use the flap disks so I'm not just a grinder after all. :clap

    I'm a finish sander :D
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  13. Salsa

    Salsa Long timer

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    I like to see my welds. I know what is underneath. If I make a crappy weld, I know it is crappy.

    Don
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  14. Foxed101

    Foxed101 Monkeywrench

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    What a difference painting the chain guide make! It looked huge before. Like a boy wearing daddy’s shoes :D

    Now it looks just right
    :beer
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  15. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer Supporter

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    Well, I rolled it off the build table tonight and shot some pictures of the finished project bike.
    Unfortunately, it is dark long before I get home from work so outside pictures will have to wait for the weekend.
    But tomorrow is the shortest day and then we start gaining daylight as we head towards summer and riding time.

    In case you are wondering, here is today's schedule, Sunrise to Sunset:
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    Daylight
    10:13 am – 3:41 pm
    5 hours, 27 minutes


    Pictures of the cleanest the bike will ever be:

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    I will bolt on the Ricochet skid plate when it arrives and other than that, the bike is complete.
    Or as complete as any bike is anyway.

    I am going to fit one of the other front fenders I have for it and see how it looks.
    I either need to shorten the rear fender or change the front fender.
    It looks unbalanced to me. :hmmmmm
    I like to make things look nice, if I can. :D
    But I'm not all that worried about it since it is a play bike not a show bike. :jkam :ricky

    For comparison, here it is before:

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    On to the next project! :ricky
  16. mach1mustang351

    mach1mustang351 Long timer Supporter

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    In summary... A little bike became a big little bike. Can't wait for the action shots!! Bring on the Matchless!!
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  17. FR700

    FR700 Heckler ™©®℗

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    Congratulations, job well done.


    Bring it. :lurk


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  18. oic

    oic Business is ALWAYS personal

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    You're right, looking at just the front the fender and headlight combo look great. Looking at the over all bike, the front looks a little snubbed. Way better than stock though, maybe something between the two. Either way, thats gonna be a blast to ride. Well done!
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  19. Bt10

    Bt10 Been here awhile

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    How about a suggestion for a DRZ supermoto front fender. Modern looks, half way between stock and pitbike size.
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  20. dirt hokie

    dirt hokie Long timer

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    beautiful
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