Xr250lc

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by fiep, Aug 31, 2011.

  1. Bronco638

    Bronco638 Nobody Home

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2004
    Oddometer:
    5,575
    Location:
    Elk Grove Village, IL
    Well, I did assume you were male. And, I have also put bearings in the freezer (not that my wife would know.......). :D
    #21
  2. Dubl-A

    Dubl-A SuckerDucker

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,884
    Location:
    505
    Very cool, Interesting thread, cant wait to see the outcome!
    #22
  3. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    why?



    the adjuster knob came, is installed
    max 1 Milimeter room between the adjuster and the starter motor
    did someone meassure that in advance?
    the cap for the sub-tank is 'discontinued'
    that soup bowl is butt ugly and will collect dirt
    advice, please

    next step:
    adapt the XR-R seat base
    the latch on the frame is squshed badly and needs tlc
    the nose on the seat is bent and flattend
    nothing a hot air gun, my beloved shark tooth and some patience cann't fix

    [​IMG]

    carve the foam to fit

    [​IMG]

    staple some piece of left over naugahide to it
    color does not matter - not yet
    won't stay like this

    [​IMG]
    #23
  4. Bronco638

    Bronco638 Nobody Home

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2004
    Oddometer:
    5,575
    Location:
    Elk Grove Village, IL
    Because you had all those parts in the kitchen sink and on the kitchen counter. Only a "guy" would do something like that. Obviously not. :D
    When I need a seat recovered, I'm contacting you. Nice job!
    #24
  5. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    so I am just a "guy" with two intact x chromosomes :lol3
    fine with me


    attach wiring harness, detangle, chop to length, fit to XR-L battery box
    and remove the whole caboodle [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    #25
  6. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    some more details, after all you want to take part in all the tiny but time consuming problems

    XR-L turn signals
    thought they would fit,
    thought wrong
    don' t have the rear mounts, these tripple bent rubber mounted tin pices OK, bolted the turn signals directly to the frame,
    the right side housing asked for a gorilla glue repair

    [​IMG]

    was absolutely sure I had front turn signals with the stock handlebar mounts, did look all over the place and did not find
    only thng I found was a set of internally rotted turn signals without mounts *sigh*
    took close to forever to fab mounts and 'rejuvenite' the internals

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    while at it I 'found' fat bars on my off-pavement XR650R (sold by now),
    found the L's stock ignition lock, tail light, bolted on a kickstand and wider footpegs, brakes on both ends got steel braided lines
    [​IMG]
    #26
  7. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    thanks

    not there yet
    but getting closer and closer
    #27
  8. LFD Kansas

    LFD Kansas Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    956
    Location:
    Leavenworth
    :lurk

    Very cool.
    #28
  9. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    <TABLE style="TABLE-LAYOUT: fixed" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=5 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD height="100%" vAlign=top width="85%">it works !!!!!

    did test ride

    my darn brakes tick mi off
    both ends steel braided lines, used discs well within wear limits, straight and clean, new pads given a scrub down with wire brush
    great pressure at the lever
    but it does not really slow anything

    never did swap pads front and reat at the same time
    how long until the pads wear in to match the disc?
    *PANIK*
    [​IMG] </TD></TR><TR><TD class=smalltext vAlign=bottom width="85%"><TABLE style="TABLE-LAYOUT: fixed" border=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD class=smalltext width="100%" colSpan=2></TD></TR><TR><TD id=modified_210572 class=smalltext vAlign=bottom></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
    #29
  10. hughrk

    hughrk Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2011
    Oddometer:
    111
    Location:
    Scotland
    Nice project!

    Sounds like calliper pistons are seizing up. You say good pressure so that rules out master cylinder rebuilds.

    Remove pistons then carefully remove the seals from the calliper. Now get the dremmel and a brass wire wheel and clean the inside of the calliper bore and the seal grooves. You will be surprised at the amount of crap that comes out, wash with anything not oil based and dry. Use wire wool to clean the pistons, again wash and dry. Any damage to seals or bad corrosion on piston requires replacement. Reassemble, bleed and ride, should be good!

    NOTE use lever pressure to remove pistons while still attached to the bike, compressed air can be used on the bench but this is dangerous and not recommended!!!

    NOTE once you have done this once plan on doing it once or twice a year. In the old days when you could buy seal kits for car callipers there was grease supplied with the seals. The grease acted as a corrosion barrier between the face of the piston and the dust seal and extended the overhaul time. Obviously not oil based, wish I could find out what it was? Anybody know please chime in.......:ear
    #30
  11. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    thanks, hughrk

    did scrub down the discs again, roughted the pad
    and took it for another spin

    jippeee!!!
    it slows
    the rear locks on command,
    the front dives significantly but controllable
    #31
  12. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    I have no idea how a stock NX250 performs,
    did get to ride one once, in 92? 93?
    had to guess secondairy gearing since I went from 16" in the rear to 18"
    sooner or later I might try 44t instead of 48
    as is it revs just shy of 7000upm at 60mph
    the muffler is gooed up pretty bad,
    we shall see what happes once it burns up the goo

    the carb is by no means adjusted,
    cleaned and mounted
    that's all

    XR250L and NX250 carbs seem closely related
    but not identical, NX250 is a tad to tall for the XR-frame

    carved a little,
    mostly my own fingers *ouch*
    to make the shrouds fit without blocking the steering
    had to grind the turn signal mounts down a little, too






    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #32
  13. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    did you just volunteer? :smooch

    stock is 15/41 and 120/90-16

    new 15/48 and 120/80-18


    thank you very much
    #33
  14. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    man are you lucky :rofl

    cann't
    dumped the funky 16-incher long ago :eek1
    #34
  15. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    it runs and rides
    but
    a whole lot of little details need tending to:
    clutch cable cuddled up to the head pipe
    throttle grip + cables
    light switch
    starter button/engine cutoff
    choke cable and shrouds
    ...

    and then it needs color
    what do you suggest?
    I do have a set good plastics of a 93 XR250L
    matching the headlight cowling
    and paint tank and shrouds white

    or paint the dark blue rattle canned plastic?
    what color?
    what color for the seat?

    and then we need lettering
    anyone here with a hand for graphics
    would like something on the seat and on the shrouds
    what kind of paint will stick to naugahide?

    project name was XR-LC
    now I am not so sure any more
    maybe NXR?

    help? comments?
    thanks
    #35
  16. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    the petcock leaked
    it did
    BUT
    swapped it out for an XR unit and now the petcock is tight
    but the bike still leaked :eek1
    found 2 teeny tiny holes in the tank and simply glued them shut
    everything fine
    for a day
    then it started seeping again
    the whole d..n tank is rotten
    maenwhile gas ate thru the paint and
    I have more than a dozen tiny rust holes
    and no replacement for this tank

    any ideas?

    1st off derust, right?
    kinda like this

    [​IMG]


    or rather like this:

    [​IMG]

    fast foreward

    Kreme did not do the job, neither did some special aeronautical tank glue
    the jerk on ebay.de refused to ship to the US, said it was to expensive - wasn't the customer the one to pay and therefore decide what is to expensive? - even tho he ships to Asia and Africa hmmm?
    lucky me, found a red tank on ebay.com
    supposedly unrusty so I ordered

    so for now I have a rattlecan red tank
    of course the petcock leaked, in itself, it was mouted properly
    so what, move the XR fuel supply valve over, move the gas cap too,
    so now I have a lockable gas cap
    even works with my ignition key

    [​IMG]
    #36
  17. PTC

    PTC Turd polisher

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    744
    Location:
    masshole mofo
    xrlc nc21p adv. thats what id call her. nc21 is the factory designation of the nx250, p=powered. awesome build sir.

    oops md21
    #37
  18. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    are you sure?
    thought when Honda used 11-digit VINs
    the 1st digit 'N' was 250-399ccm
    2nd digit 'C' was for street bikes
    #38
  19. PTC

    PTC Turd polisher

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    744
    Location:
    masshole mofo
    md21, sorry. and for the future tank repairs try caswell plating. they have an incredible tank sealer that likes to bond to rust. i used it in three tanks one had a one inch hole, duct taped the outside till the sealer dried. three yrs later it still works.
    #39
  20. fiep

    fiep Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,914
    Location:
    GA
    good advice, have an XL and an RT1 that still need some tlc mostlikely including sealing the tanks


    now that 'LC' is ridable and gets ridden all the little problems start popping up
    like this:

    [​IMG]


    harmless?
    not really, was supposed to hold the shift lever but fell for the chain

    the solution
    don't you dare laughing

    [​IMG]

    not so well visible, the clip on the other side of the bolt

    next solution:

    [​IMG]

    found a broken XR-L coke cable in my parts chaos
    applied a little witchcraft, works, for now held on by a zip tie, later it will get a mount on the headlight mount as soon as all the other little bits and pieces theat need to be put on there are ready

    time for the clunky NX handlebar switch unit the disappear
    - any NX250 rider in need? it's up for sale - and make room for a nice trim XL-R unit *sigh* solder again

    the NX throttle grip will make room for an XR-L throttle plus cables
    ordered a starter/engie cutoff as soon as I have it ...
    the NX switches are just huge, ugly and oldfashioned - no offence meant
    #40