XR400 swingarm bolt

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by DrLewall, Dec 11, 2009.

  1. CCTigers

    CCTigers Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 4, 2014
    Oddometer:
    12
    Location:
    SE USA
    Frame was broken with a crappy weld and swing arm bolt was replaced with a machine bolt, two washers and a nut. Didn't even ask to crank it. Oh well.
  2. pigjockey

    pigjockey Hognuts the T-bagger

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2014
    Oddometer:
    3,038
    Location:
    Wisconsin A half dozen miles from ROAD AMERICA
    Seafoam Deep Creap forget that old school pb stuff. works so good it will creap right out the nozzle sometimes. I used it to remove saltwater residue on a supercharged verado outboard worked great until I was 30 miles ouy in the gulf of Mexico and the motor barley idled. Pulled the shroud and low and behold iy crept between the intake manifold and the rubber hose to the supercharger and I could not keep it on till I washed it completely off. Now that's some creapping for you, try that with pb blaster.:eek1
  3. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    32,460
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
  4. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    32,460
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    if i was spraying penetrate it would be the gold standard, Kroil.
  5. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,379
    Location:
    California
    I just thought I would add my experience to this thread, and particularly in response to the issue illustrated in the post above...

    I too had a seized swing arm bolt back in 2007 (the bike was 4 years old then), and we tried everything until we resorted to cutting the bolt out with an air-saw that uses a hacksaw blade, which meant we didn't have to butcher the swing arm like the OP.

    However you do it, be careful about damaging the two bushes that are pressed into each side of the engine cases in the photo above - although they are steel pressed into the alloy cases, these parts are NOT available separately - if you want/need new ones, you basically have to buy the whole engine cases!

    Fortunately, although both of mine were damaged during the removal, one of them was serviceable enough to take measurements from and I got two new ones turned up on a lathe - just keep that in mind if you ever get medieval with a sawzil!

    Jx
  6. DrLewall

    DrLewall Master of bating

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    46,407
    Location:
    Banned Camp
    and that was my biggest fear when I was performing surgery...:eek1

    I got lucky I reckon :thumb
  7. jjxtrider

    jjxtrider questionable

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2013
    Oddometer:
    4,273
    Location:
    Halfway to hell (WI.)
    Sea Foam Deep Creep (my fav) or Kroil has gotten out all of my SA bolts so far. I just keep spraying and the riding for a couple months if needed. I usually loosen the nut a bit . Takes time to get the lube in where it needs to be then with the nut loose it lets the extra rust/lube mixture flush out so the bolts come out. Need to watch out for the frame getting worn out too if I moves there while riding. Then the bolts AND all bushings get polished to remove the rust (this prevents it from coming back right away), then a complete coating of copper anti-seize on all parts. It'll takes quite a few years for the rust to even start again, by then the bolts will be removed and anti-seized again.

    If a person wanted to, after the bolt is polished, spray paint it with zinc rich (Cold Zinc by Rustoleum), not a thick layer. I've used it on other stuff, it does protect from rust pretty good for not being a hot application (which is best for zinc).

    .
  8. Budmeister

    Budmeister n00b

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2013
    Oddometer:
    5
    Location:
    Johburg
    My 2001 model, certainly in my 3years of ownership, had never had the bolt out. I ride it infrequently and when I do it's close to the ocean in Mozambique. Sometimes, necessarily, through seawater estuaries!
    Six months ago I tried to remove the bolt.. It wouldn't budge, the nut came off readily but a brass drift with a 6mm pin to align the blows, and using a 2kg hammer I couldn't get any axial displacement at all. As recommended on this forum I sprayed on lots of penetrating oil (WD5) and rode it, maybe 1000km. I played a propane flame over the swing arm, over the engine cases and, on alternate tries, over the bolt itself, coupled with that plenty of spray lube.
    Still stuck, I tried to rotate the bolt with a 17mm socket. This just resulted in the socket camming off. I tapped the end M10 to :
    a. Put lots of tension on the bolt from the head end using a long M10 capscrew and some big sockets as a bridge.
    b. Made up a slide hammer out of gr.8.8 threadbar and beat it from the head end in about 10 sessions over two weeks.
    The first yield was rotary with a 700mm fork tube giving more torque to the socket. It took say an hour of twisting clockwise and anti clockwise to get 360degrees of turn.
    Then with the M10 capscrew putting maximum tension on the SA bolt and the blow on the brass drift on the other end it yielded about half a millimetre with a loud crack.
    I applied more lube, drove it back in and beat it back out. First only half a millimetre then one then three then twenty.
    The bolt where it had been siezed in the engine cases was a little dry, a little rusty and very slightly pitted.
    Now after clean-up and relubing it disassembles easily.
    I've saved the bolt and avoided collateral damage the swing arm/ engine cases if I had try to cut the bolt away. Most expensive component was about 10 hours of my time.
    Bud
  9. jjxtrider

    jjxtrider questionable

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2013
    Oddometer:
    4,273
    Location:
    Halfway to hell (WI.)
    Now sandblast that bolt and spray it with zinc paint(or better yet have it hot zinc dipped), then anti seize every bit of it and the bores(after cleaning them up real good and Zinc painting them). It should be good for a couple years , but I still take all my pivot bolts out roughly once a year to re-anti seize. Good that patience got it out without more damage , most don't do that.



    .
  10. DrLewall

    DrLewall Master of bating

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    46,407
    Location:
    Banned Camp
    10 hrs and couple of weeks...my 10 hrs was in one day! :ksteve


    :umph
  11. the-rickster

    the-rickster n00b

    Joined:
    May 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3
    This thread really worried me. I just picked up a 98 xr4 which was ridden 300 miles and put in heated storage. I felt really fortunate that the bolt came out easily. I greased her up and installed it. Thanks for all the info! image.jpeg
    G600, tuscan and xr400r like this.
  12. MartiniUp

    MartiniUp Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3,192
    Location:
    TX
    Thanks, great info!
  13. tuscan

    tuscan Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2010
    Oddometer:
    605
    Location:
    Nu Ziland
    You're a lucky bugger with that one - almost perfect
    Awesome result....:clap