Xr600 & xr650l aussie owners

Discussion in 'Australia' started by Kenno, May 30, 2013.

  1. GSXR

    GSXR Trail Rider

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    GR1, the book usually says 1000 km intervals for any XR as far as I know, so I was just quoting that oft-forgotten snippet. We actually did the oil changes at 1600ish km because that is the length of a trip up / down or across. Worked out well and was a great learning curve.

    I did use the K&P Engineering s/s oil filters in nearly everything, so that is definitely a mod. Did lots of mods...

    I've had heaps of XRs blow up on me by the way. Mostly due to mods by myself and friends. I'm a slow learner
    crash n bern and greyrider1 like this.
  2. greyrider1

    greyrider1 old tinkerer

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    Ok ok ...I get it ...so what you're saying is that if I just putt-putt around the bike puts up with a lot of neglect but if I'm starting to wring its neck I better get in early with an oil change ..or something to that extend.

    Make sense timing the oil changes with the trips GSXR, would be interesting to hear some more of the mods that worked and the ones that didn't.
    Those K&P filters look neat ...a bit exy tho
    GSXR likes this.
  3. cobrin

    cobrin Live to Ride - Ride to Live

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    yes that's one the very definitions of extreme conditions, much like postie bikes and their 'stop start' working conditions is seen equally as extreme and one more example 'dusty' conditions is the majority of its usage. All requiring different/shorter maintenance interval/s.
    GSXR likes this.
  4. crash n bern

    crash n bern Long timer

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    I was reading through the KTM talk forum and someone was asking on the lifespan of the RFS motors. A mechanic that specialises in building big bore and stroker engines, as well as stock gave a breakdown on the lifespan between builds relating to maintenance and conditions. One of the interesting things he noted was that if there was no filter on the carby vent hoses the rebuilds were more frequent due to the amount of dirt they suck in.
    GSXR likes this.
  5. crash n bern

    crash n bern Long timer

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    Thank you. I'm glad that knowledgeable mechanics screw up. It makes me feel better when I screw up. Even though over time I have learnt how to apply Zen to the art of motorcycle maintenance, I am now faced with the brain fade of older age and doing some pretty stupid things, more annoyingly because I should of known better.
    GSXR likes this.
  6. GSXR

    GSXR Trail Rider

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    The labouring to death thing is more about the driveline / trans side of it - doesn't really affect top end etc, so oil interval would be the same as if being flogged.

    Stainless oil filters were used purely for economics and convenience when servicing every ten days or so. I think they were about $100 each back then. Haven't been bothering lately as I've backed off in the riding department these days a bit.

    All the mods for the tour bikes were about leaving the engine and breathing stock, but making the bike more bulletproof / crashproof, bigger fuel range etc.

    I learnt pretty quickly the downsides to removing the choke plates in XR carbies. Much better idea to leave it in and check annually for wear in the spring / flap retainer pin. Saves a lot of fuel & wear and tear on kick starters and riders.
    greyrider1 likes this.
  7. GSXR

    GSXR Trail Rider

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    Mods that don't work:

    In the late 80's a mate and I spent ages trying to turbo charge an XR600. I would barely get around the block and the damn thing would be blowing out the head gasket. We had helicoiled and upgraded the bolts etc to no avail and ended up giving up and selling it. Spoke to the guy who bought it a while later and he said it was all sorted. We thought the thing had to be clamped down mega tight to hold the compression. No, he said. Factory bolts are designed to yield and contain the combustion shocks. He had to replace the cylinder for a good used item as it had the correct 9mm threads in the right places as opposed to our M10 "upgrades". I'm no engineer, but still use that advice to this day by sorting M/benz diesels with Black Death ie combustion leaking past injectors. They all do it. The common mod is to tap out injector clamp bolts to 8mm, or 10mm in some cases I've seen. It simply doesn't work. Take it back to 6mm, use the factory bolts and enjoy the next 150,000km
    greyrider1 likes this.
  8. greyrider1

    greyrider1 old tinkerer

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    Ever had much trouble priming pumps after oil changes and what size tanks did you use back then??
    Cheers
  9. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

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    So I picked up a WP 43mm USD front end, with triples, from a 625/640 SXC.

    Can anyone tell me what mods may be needed to fit it up t0 my 95 XR600R? Luckily I seem to have the front wheel and brakes to suit too so it is just fitting it to the steering head stem I need advice on. Thanks.
    XRHondafan likes this.
  10. J_B

    J_B Mid-life Crisis

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    chasing a Xr650r 24l acerbiz or safari tank for a trip to Cape York

    Anyone have one lying around - rent or buy
    I am in WA but can arrange postage or transport
    Thanks

    Jon
    Mobile 0419816776
  11. XRHondafan

    XRHondafan Long timer

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    Did Scott summers fit those forks to his xr?

    scott summers.jpg

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  12. greyrider1

    greyrider1 old tinkerer

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    There's a ton of information out there mostly on crf/xr conversions but the basics would be the same.

    The easiest way is to use a conversion stem and bush from Emig Racing if they make one for ktm/xr,
    ...failing that you might find a set of conversion bearings from All Balls Racing which have the outer diameter of the xr and the inner diameter of the ktm stem,
    ...failing that you'll have to press out the ktm steering stem and get it machined to accept the xr bearings(assuming the ktm bearings are larger).

    I had the crf stem machined down to accept xrl bearings as per the pic. The diameters are taken straight of the xrl stem but the length varies as the crf stem is slightly longer. On installation I split the difference with a couple of 3mm whashers, one under the lower bearing and another on top of the upper bearing.

    Obviously check your dimensions, you might also need a bush in the upper triple that makes up for the now skinnier ktm stem.

    Before taking out the stock lower triple mark the center and each side of the head stock so you have a reference to where the new stops need to go.

    While modifying the stops check the clearance around the tank and such. Hope it helps.

    007.jpg

    20140423_145531.jpg

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    GodSilla likes this.
  13. lookfar

    lookfar from the land of OZ Supporter

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    84602F66-5915-401A-AE94-7D23E2B8878E.jpeg We are wandering around the US at the moment, visited a Honda dealership today and found this.
    It’s on special, $600 off, waiting on the 2019 model.
    Still carby engine.
    GodSilla and Ron50 like this.
  14. GSXR

    GSXR Trail Rider

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    Geez.... Honda have got the most out of the 650L tooling. It's about time they did something fresh and decent for us in an upper mid size way. CRF650 please
  15. XRHondafan

    XRHondafan Long timer

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    Waft did you expect? There’s no way Honda will upgrade this baby
  16. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

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    I retrieved my XR from BoySilla, he lacks shed space in his current abode, and I tried to kick-start it when I got it home.

    I limped for days. My crook right knee didn't take too well to multiple extended sessions at the kicker, to no avail. It did start a few times and run roughly on part throttle, but any throttle movement and it simply dies.

    I spoke to BoySilla a few days later and asked why it might be hard to start. He reckoned it idled too fast at altitude around Braidwood so he turned the idle down, and now I remember there is a technique to getting it to start from cold, where the idle gets turned up, then turned down when it gets warmer.

    So now I know why my leg hurts. Bloody kids.

    I'm glad it's home though.:raabia
    Big Willy and Ron50 like this.
  17. GSXR

    GSXR Trail Rider

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    Sounds like that one's had the choke mod
  18. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

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    Nah mate, I removed the remnants of the choke plate from the original carby when bits of it got ingested, but soon got sick of laying the bike on the ground to flood it to start it in winter. That can get very tiring on a cold morning when wrapped up in loads of riding gear.

    It now sports a 39mm Mikuni flatslide from Ballards. It's not a bad carby, but the idle is sensitive to adjustment. Apart from that it is pretty much set & forget. Much better than the original, it doesn't stick off the bottom and doesn't die with the XR "phut" when you open it too hard at very low revs.
    GSXR likes this.
  19. OzAnt

    OzAnt Still searching

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    My cold start technique with the standard carby with a custom modified full plate choke is,
    Fresh batch of fuel 98 octane
    Fuel on
    Make sure it is in the carby by draining out the old fuel, let it set for about 5 minutes,
    Idle screw 1 full turn in
    Choke on full
    3 kicks and it is going.

    When I shut it down now I turn off the fuel and let it run until it is used up what is in the carby
    GodSilla likes this.
  20. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

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    I had the cold-start technique down pat with the standard carby, same with the replacement, but BoySilla has moved the idle speed screw..........
    So I had a fool around with it a couple of days ago and got it a bit better, the bike starts easier and runs for longer, but still won't keep running after a bit. But it is better than it was. I just need to fool around until I get the setting just right (and it is a bit fussy) then all will be good. My main problem is repeatedly having to kicking the shit out of it with a dud knee, once the knee starts to go it's over for another few day while I rest it.