XR600R dual sport build. Will it run?

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Juddvong, Aug 19, 2021.

  1. Juddvong

    Juddvong Adventurer

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    Hello, just a little introduction. I bought this plated 2000 XR600R from a buddy of mine. The plan was to enjoy it over summer and take it to do the Smokey Mountain 500. What could go wrong? Little did I know I now own another paper weight. :doh

    Here's the bike as I received it. Some good parts on it. Old school Baja designs dual sport kit, CRF forks, Clarke tank, FMF muffler, hydraulic clutch, and rear rack. My friend told me it just needed some wiring finished up and it'll be good to go.

    IMG_20210629_135320.jpg IMG_20210629_135314.jpg

    Right away, It was kind of a pain to start. This is when I found out it had an Edelbrock pumper carb. A few days after I got it the throttle cable snapped. Turns out they don't make parts for this set up anymore. I soldered up some new cables then I find out the pumper valve needed to be replaced. Said screw it and took it out. If anyone wants any of this stuff. LMK!



    PXL_20210522_223741539.jpg

    After that I decided get a FCR. Kind of upset this turned into another project at this point. Found a super clean CRF250R carb on eBay and snatched it up. Also bought the following parts:

    2021 CRF450R cables and throttle assembly. Cables are the perfect length.
    Allgeyer adapter
    New seals and jets for the carb
    Xr650L intake boot

    PXL_20210610_141017752.jpg

    At this point I got the carb dialed it and everything was working great. It would start after two kicks cold and one kick hot. By this point I never left the yard. Figured I got it running good so I put the tank on and seat back on. Hauled it an hour to the local trails and IT WOULD NOT START AT ALL. At the time we concluded no spark. Now looking back at it, the spark on these aren't very bright and I may have just missed it.

    I went home and read about some people having stator issues. Figured if I'm going to be dual sporting this thing, I might as well get an upgraded stator, new OEM coil, new plug, and also bought a spare CDI just in case. Also decided I'm going to redo all the lighting to something more modern. Another $400 invested.

    Parts get installed. Check for spark, good. Put the bike back together and boom she fires right up. This time I take her around the neighborhood a few times. Everything is good. I shut it off and she fires right back up with no issues. I go outside a few hours later and again WOULD NOT START. Spark is good. Tried some starter fluid, nothing. Didn't even try to start. No amount of carb adjustment would even get it to burp. I noticed the kicker was pretty easy to move even at TDC. Removed the decomp cable to make sure it wasn't affecting the compression. Checked the compression with the throttle wide open at I get 90 psi.

    I bought a leak down tester and I'm getting 14% leakdown at 100psi. Here's a video of some water sprayed down into the valves at 10psi in the cylinder. All the valves are like this.


    ezgif-5-294b22bce125.gif

    So I guess my next step is to tear the motor down and do a rebuild. At the very least on the top end? I'm still kind of baffled why the bike went from running to dead, twice....

    Here's the bike currently with a CRF450L headlight and fender.
    received_354049296328852.jpeg
    #1
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  2. VX Rider

    VX Rider Long timer

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    You are proving

    The most expensive bike I ever had was FREE.
    #2
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  3. JAB

    JAB Unsprung Weight Supporter

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    Do you have kill button or keyed switch?
    #3
  4. Franque

    Franque Nilé na sohakélwa manga

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    You might be able to get away with just lapping the valves. Are you on the GPX page on Facebook? Best of luck, following along.
    #4
  5. Juddvong

    Juddvong Adventurer

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    It wasn't even free. :(
    Kill button, I've checked the wiring and it's getting spark so I don't think that's it.
    That's me!

    I wanted to make sure there's nothing else for me to check before I tear down the motor.
    #5
  6. VX Rider

    VX Rider Long timer

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    Well I'm sort of in a similar yet different situation.
    Paid more for a newer bike, thinking it would be a good deal.
    Then I paid more for parts, and more because it's nice, and wanted it to be whole and complete...
    So I'm in more for a 2013 300 Ninja, than I am after 7 years of owning a 30 year old Suzuki.....
    Waiting on a new chain and sprockets because 20k on the current set, then I need to buy some.kind of frame stands because it doesn't have a center stand...

    If it wasn't so much fun to ride, I'd have to be a bit mad at myself.
    #6
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  7. JAB

    JAB Unsprung Weight Supporter

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    The reason I ask about the kill button is it can fail internally and give you intermitent no spark condition when you check and replace everything else. Is this common? Probably not. Did it happen to me, yes it did. The buttons innards started to crumble and the bike would either run fine, run crappy or not at all. Was a bugger to find, but once I did, was not a problem. To test, I unplugged the button until I was pretty sure things were OK and then replaced it as soon as possible. This happened on a 35 year old dirt bike. Just my .02
    #7
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  8. DiggerD

    DiggerD DougFir from SuperDuke Days

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    That is not a 2000R model.
    The 2000 XR650R is water cooled and kick only.
    Complete different engine and frame.

    Take care when ordering parts.
    #8
  9. Franque

    Franque Nilé na sohakélwa manga

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    Incorrect, the XR600R was made until 2000.
    #9
  10. Ron50

    Ron50 Long timer

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    And with a decompressor lever and pull-push throttle cables the kill button is redundant anyway.

    FWIW it might be worth checking the operation of the auto decompressor on the right exhaust valve.
    #10
  11. *perko

    *perko Adventurer

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    I have had an auto decomp stick open before (or might've been the anti kickback).
    In my case was probably due to lack of oil changes and sitting for a while, a bump start got it going and hasn't happened again.

    Will the bike run with a bump start?

    Regardless, if it were my bike I'd start working my way down through the motor, checking everything as you go.
    Parts aren't all that expensive and I think it unlikely it needs much more than minor head work at most.
    #11
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  12. DiggerD

    DiggerD DougFir from SuperDuke Days

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    My bad.

    I do have two 2000 XR650R that are water pumpers with the newer frame and engine.

    Just back from a sleep deprived mc related campout and the gray mater is still a little foggy...:D:D:D:D

    But still, take care when ordering parts for what ever XR 2000 you have.
    #12
  13. Ron50

    Ron50 Long timer

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    I've heard that the newer superslippery oils with friction modifiers can affect the clutch mechanism of the auto decompressor too, but I imagine that would cause it not to operate rather than to stick on.

    It can also make the cam chain tensioner slip, especially when hot, causing the engine suddenly to become noisy.

    This link gives some insight into how the autodecompressor works:
    https://advrider.com/f/threads/xr600-auto-decompressor-cam-disabling.721149/

    No way would I be tearing an engine down looking for lost compression if the fault is intermittent. That shows that it can't be wear; it has to be something capable of being intermittent such as ignition, fuel or the decompression system.

    And trying to bump start it would be my first step.

    I won't even try kickstarting an XR600 that has stood for weeks without draining the float bowl to make sure it has fresh fuel there.
    #13
  14. bork

    bork Been here awhile

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    I was thinking that once it gets warm the valves are too tight, but you said you started it when it was hot. So that would rule out my theory of valves too tight. But if you let it sit a few hours then would not start. Are you shutting off petcock? (Carb might be slowly leaking & flooding) Also verify petcock operates as it should 100% in all 3 positions. Did you pull the plug when it did not start? to check if bone dry or soaked? It wouldn't hurt to back off the valve adjustment a tad. Better having too clickety that too tight. I wouldn't dive into engine yet either, because you might freshen up top end & then find out you still have the same problem.
    BTW, nice bike!
    #14
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  15. Juddvong

    Juddvong Adventurer

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    I actually had the button un plugged. I was worried too since it was a new switch I put on.

    The fact that it was working then decided to just suddenly quit is why I'm stumped. It didn't even sit that long before it decided to not start anymore. Maybe 4 hours max. I didn't try to bump start it either.

    I pulled the plug and it looked dry. I aired it out and tried again with no success.

    I'm going to put everything back together and give it one more go today.
    #15
  16. Juddvong

    Juddvong Adventurer

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    OK!
    Cleaned the carb out just in case, re adjusted the valves, and threw it back together. It fired it up after two kicks.
    BUT
    I could tell it didn't have the compression it should. I could kick it past TDC without even lifting my butt off the seat. I had the decomp removed so it wasn't that. I'm going to tear the motor down tomorrow. Interested to see what I find.
    #16
  17. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    Carbon holding a valve open. Super rich pumper carb way over fueled. Its hard to kill an air cooled Honda.
    #17
  18. Ron50

    Ron50 Long timer

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    Do you mean the manual decompressor cable from the lever on the head or the auto decompressor on the end of the exhaust cam under the cam cover?
    #18
  19. Juddvong

    Juddvong Adventurer

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    I could see that. There was a lot of trial and error with the Edelbrock carb.

    Cable. I've yet to mess with the auto decomp. Would that enable me to move the kick start pass TDC without too much effort?
    #19
  20. Ron50

    Ron50 Long timer

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    Yes. If it's sticking it will hold the right side exhaust valve open.
    #20
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