XR650R electricity

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by themansfield, Jan 8, 2009.

  1. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    as my factory manual does not list it, this is what i found on the web:
    the Xr currently has an ignition coil and a lighting / power circuit. The stock stator produces around 40 Watts at idle and 90 Watts at redline, and is spec'd as producing 65 Watts

    i live 15min from Baja Design and have used them for stuff for many years. Rickey Stator is not far away either (Ramona) and i have bought stators etc from them. and race tech is just a bit further up in corona. the first two i have nothing but good things to say and prefer the BD stator due to its higher output and mil-spec quality (no quality issues w/ RS either). both are great w/ cust service. have not used RT but have 3 sets of their XR suspension. i use george @ suspension 101 and recommend him to everyone. HIGHLY
  2. Ratdotl

    Ratdotl n00b

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    Thanks again for all the good info. I'm kind of at a standstill now till I'm ready to buy the stator, fun purchases are shut down for awhile till the current situation resolves itself. I was originally thinking 2 *125 ac and DC but I wasn't aware I needed to upgrade wire size so I'll probably do as you suggested, I had seen the post from xrider awhile back and it sounds like you guys know your stuff.
    I'll hit you up again when I get into it, I appreciate the help.
  3. brad21

    brad21 We have a pool... and a pond.

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    Hey gang, I've got an '06 BRP that I've barely ridden since I bought it a couple of years ago, but I want to upgrade the crappy lights it has on it presently. Pretty sure it's got a re-wound stator to run the dual PIAA halogens. I don't want to spend a lot of money and would be fine with keeping the lights currently on it if I can upgrade the bulbs to LED's or something... what would you do?

    6173DC31-A5A0-4D7E-A476-16F0B1C3C449.jpeg D5F40C35-8BFF-4561-9228-79202D2574FA.jpeg

    The PIAA's I believe are supposed to be a flood and a spot, but they're horrible as far as output...
  4. dogsslober

    dogsslober No neck tie, Ti neck

    Joined:
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    450X head light shell, Baja Designs XL80 or what ever Baja Designs lights will fit in the shell
    IMG_2686.JPG
    brad21 likes this.
  5. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    i confess to being surprised... i have had great results running PIAA lights. you don't mention whether you are running the lites AC or DC powered or a split system. do you have a battery? small 10 AA pack? what bulbs are in the lamps - 55w H3's? i assume low beam is flood and high beam is spot? are both lites on when you switch to high? things i would check: system voltage @regulator or Reg/Rect w/ lamps unplugged then repeat w/ low beam connected, voltage at the bulbs in low beam the hi beam - if low, go back connection by connection and see if improves esp if running DC thru the headlight switch, ground leads - lamp, voltage regulator if AC, R/R if running DC and esp factory ground to frame. best to test using voltage drop method. keep good notes and post your results please.

    i have been overall very dissatisfied with replacing standard or halogen bulbs with LED bulbs - output has often been really good but beam focus rarely is. LED bulbs don't have the light emanating from the same place as the filament in an incandescent bulb thus the pattern generated is not as good. an LED bulb in a lamp designed for it works well, but they are more expensive. PIAA gets $350 for a pair of their m/c led lamps...

    just my $0.02
    brad21 likes this.
  6. dual-sporting

    dual-sporting n00b

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    Apr 15, 2020
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    Guys,

    Looking forward to going through this massive thread and getting info I need.. But to share my issue, have an XR650R with BD dual sport kit.. Pretty sure the battery is toast as my lights etc don't work when the bike is off. Battery has probably been dead longer than charged but I'll try to charge it tomorrow.. (reading a couple volts when tested, dropped to tenths while testing with my multimeter)

    1. Problem is: when I rev up the engine the lights actually dim rather than get brighter. I.e. they are brightest at idle. When it's idling, headlight, turn signals, tail light do actually work OK but very dim and it only gets worse with throttle.

    Further, the wiring is a complete hack job. Several(5-10) wires leading nowhere. The schematic on the BD website for old DS kit shows a 10 pin wiring harness/connector from the switch, but mine is a 3x3 square connector. I don't particularly enjoy messing with wiring but the several feet total of extra wires and leads going to nothing drives me insane so I want to eliminate some of that.

    I found this battery pack on Amazon, think it'll work? https://www.amazon.com/Exell-1000mA...01MS84OJ4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 I believe what's on there is .8AH 12v... I will check dimensions tomorrow.

    2. May look into upgrading into the Squadron Sport LED light from BD.. Reading conflicting info.. Is it plug and play? I have the BD light holder plastic that is attached with rubber to my forks. No, unfortunately I do not have an upgraded stator.

    3. Finally, my kill switch doesn't work. I may be able to figure that one out on my own by following the wire around and seeing if it's cut/broken. Switch looks OK but I didn't test with my multimeter. Will do that tomorrow.

    Thank you for any insight.
  7. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    pretty sure that batt be dead. you might want to check these guys for a battery. they may not be as cheap as amazon, but they are close to you and build excellent quality products. I build portable power solutions for field recording and have used their products for many years w/ great results. if you are handy w/ an iron, you can easily build your own pack - 10 x AA NiCad in series. looking at your link, that battery seems to be a perfectly acceptable solution as well. (i'm sorta anti-amazon, so don't mind me)

    i have a bunch of the BD diagrams for xr600's but in your case i would email BD and see if they can send you the appropriate diagram. if wiring ain't your thing, having a road map certainly makes life easier.

    the kill switch should ground the black/green from the cdi box so first check for ground at the switch, then check the switch works, then continuity from the other kill switch terminal to the blk/grn wire at the cdi connector. that ought to give you an answer.

    and yes, get rid of the mess
  8. ebrew

    ebrew Motorcycle A.D.D.

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    Can anyone out there tell be the bolt spacing on the bar clamps ?

    Center to center ( about )
    Front bolt to back bolt
    And side to side

    TY
  9. dual-sporting

    dual-sporting n00b

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    thanks, I did some poking around yesterday and found that the switch actually does work, but the wires for the kill switch are not connected to anything. There's a blue and black striped and I think pure black running from the switch leading nowhere. Where is the CDI located? I saw what I thought was the coil above the engine that runs the spark plug wire, has a green wire leading to it, but don't think that's the CDI. Is it what's referred to as the Ignition Control Module (ICM) in the shop manual?

    Buying a bunch of connectors to clean this mess up ASAP with my new chain order. This thing needs some work.
  10. dogsslober

    dogsslober No neck tie, Ti neck

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    Under the seat
  11. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    yeah, sorry. ICM = CDI. black/white & green (which is ground everywhere in the harness) at the switch altho i have seen replacement switches black & black/white. btw i forgot to mention that if you are in the harness, make sure the green ground wire is in good shape esp the section from the harness to the frame ground at the ign coil. ICM is under the seat. coil wire is green/yellow. the schemo below is for road legal version - A/C headlight and DC everything else but it has a separate A/C winding...

    upload_2020-4-16_18-11-48.png
  12. dual-sporting

    dual-sporting n00b

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    thank you for that, I have the shop manual but wasn't sure which type it was. Thought ED type was European though. I read it was supposed to be NA type but there wasn't one in the manual, just two EDs, 2 DKs, and a U..

    I ordered a bunch of wiring and connectors will probably go through the whole bike replacing anything that looks anything worse than very good. And eliminate the snap locks.

    Assuming i will have to take a look at the BD wiring diagram, hopefully they give me an accurate one, to compare where they deviated from either/both. Since everything "works" (hopefully a little brighter after battery replacement), the dream would be just to clean up the mess. We'll see.
  13. Purple Fox

    Purple Fox Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    14
    Hi folks

    Great thread and lots of info here which has been a big help. I am about to upgrade my stator and install one that came new, boxed when I got the bike. Previous owner hadn't got round to fit it or more likely, didnt know how.

    Are you guys able to help me a little more:

    First Question: Does anyone recognise this unit and is it worth fitting? I would like to make sure it's not a waste of time before I start. It looks identical to those being sold on ebay for around £150 such as this one here and is supposedly 200w:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Out...283177?hash=item4d7c715229:g:3eMAAOSw1lxbllY6

    This is mine:
    20200416_150917.jpg 20200416_150943.jpg 20200416_150955.jpg



    Secondly: I have studied the wiring diagram. I have a UK XR with DC electrics and an AC headlight. Seems that my new stator is definitely not plug and play.

    The wires to the ICM - Brown and Black/Red are like for like so thats good.
    The pair of wires for the pulse generator I can determine, although slightly different colours no issues in identifying which ones they are.

    This leaves me with 2 greens and 2 whites on the new stator.

    I assume these are 2 separate 100w circuits

    I intend to use one to power the original stuff on the bike. So this would be the pink and yellow on the bike which goes to the existing reg/rec and condenser. I don't have indicators so this will be only for horn and tail light I assume?

    The second pair of green and white wires is what I will use to charge a battery and then power my nav, GPS, heated grips etc.

    Questions
    Does the above sound sensible?
    Is the existing Reg/Rec able to handle the 100w output?
    How best to connect a headlight? I want to use an LED so assume I will no longer use the AC circuit and AC regulator on the bike. But should I connect the headlight to the DC on the bike circuit or the new DC circuit with the battery. headlight will be 30w plus another 30w high beam.
    There is a regulator supplied but it only has 2 wires, a yellow and a black. No idea how this fits as all the diagrams I see have 2 yellows input with a red and black going to the battery. Any suggestions? Dump it?

    Seems by having a dedicated 100w circuit for the existing bike stuff I am 'wasting' a lot of the output by just having the tail light, position light and horn.

    Is there a better way of doing it? Combining the outputs, so single 200w, single reg/rec, decent battery and running everything from that maybe?


    Sorry for all the questions, I have done as much reading / researching as I can but would appreciate some guidance, thanks in advance to anyone who has the time to decipher this post! :clap
  14. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    with many knowledgeable folks on this list, i am sure someone can identify the brand.

    i think it's worth fitting in light of the increased output it offers. i would think it is either 2 x 100w or 2 x 120 w.

    the shiny aluminum box in your picture is an AC regulator. if you go all DC, it will not be used. if you go with a split system, you will use it (it can handle one of the outputs) and need to buy a DC Reg/Rect for the other output. if you go all DC, you will need two reg/rect like this one or one single one rated for your stator output. single DC system is preferred IMHO as long as you you use appropriate gauge wire for the DC wiring. also one less item to deal with.

    i only know of two LED bulbs that accept AC, so yeah, i think you are going all DC.

    assuming one r/r and all DC, pair the two green together, do the same for the two whites. (using the r/r in the link as an example) connect the green pair to a yellow wire, connect the white pair to the other yellow wire. the r/r black wire goes to green (ground) and the red wire goes to the battery as well as the rest of the bike (can't remember the color and can't read the diagram i posted damn it)

    with a single DC circuit, just wire everything up. please check OEM honda ground wire that runs from frame to main harness. it is now old and was not designed to have many things added to it. i usually run a new ground end to end overlayed on old harness and use it for any new grounds.

    no need apologize for questions, that primary purpose of forum.
  15. Purple Fox

    Purple Fox Adventurer

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    May 14, 2010
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    Thanks for the response - very helpful.

    I have the unit on the bike now and it starts and runs which I am happy about. I will sort the other electrics over the next few days and wire it up as you suggest. I need to get a reg-rec and battery.

    I hadn't a clue why the reg-rec included only had two wires, seems obvious now you mention it that it is an AC one, like the one on the bike. I will do away with that and the two units on the bike (AC and the DC unit).

    Thanks again.
  16. dual-sporting

    dual-sporting n00b

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    Welp, got through it today and got everything working the way it’s supposed to. New battery was needed.

    Besides the sloppy wire routing, some connections were extremely Mickey Mouse, like the connections for the 9 pin K&S switch were literally just tied together with some electric tape wrapped around them. I bought a new switch but gotta say it’s just a matter of time before this one breaks, too. What’s a better solution for that?

    So I replaced all of that with some bullet connectors with the crimper I bought (great investment). Didn’t even need to use the wiring diagram yet.

    I am wondering, could I replace my old BD headlight (might be stock? It’s a halogen and pretty dim, but “works”) with the new BD squadron sport without upgrading the stator? Not trying to spend a ton of money and don’t plan on doing a lot night riding. But increased visibility from cars on the road would be nice.

    Thanks
  17. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    well gildus, finally got some pix. first is stock stator. second is 3phase A/C stator in side cover. third is top view of underseat with fender cut out & R/R mounted to crossbar. battery installed in abs box inserted into another fender cutout. last is view from rear - sorry it's sideways. 068.jpg 069.jpg 071.jpg 074.jpg
  18. Purple Fox

    Purple Fox Adventurer

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    Nice job. I like the way you have mounted the R/R on the crossbar.

    What size battery are you guys using? I am trying to get away with as small as possible but expect there is some calculation that should be done........looking at this 3.2Ah purely because it will fit where I want it to but does it need to be higher capacity? 200w DC system.

    https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pe...7BKmXkPeA2bp6p8_LC1jjmZicv-7s_yhoCgxwQAvD_BwE
  19. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    i did the same basic thing on my XR650L -- PO sold bike with a corbin seat ( worst thing i have ever sat on btw) that adds a crossbrace to which the seat attaches with 2 bolts. didn't have to cut out the fender - the RR just bolted up. appreciate the kindness but it's still pretty ugly to me.

    i do plan on sealing off the underseat area from the back wheel. back when i worked in car audio, we would use this flexible sheet (called prepreg) - fiberglass cloth that had been soaked with resin. but it isn't very sticky or runny. when you expose it to UV light it quickly hardens to whatever shape you formed. think i will order some in carbon fiber, form it, then prob rivet it in place.

    battery is a 1.2Ah powersonic so it's pretty small. i have two - had planned on paralleling them then just installed the one. gonna see what happens. i am counting on this RR to keep this little batt from getting killed. the xrr is an all DC system. and i run dual headlights. so i am using a relay with an internal timer to prevent any draw on the battery other than the Ignitech ignition when i turn the key on to start the bike. it's set for 30 sec's 4 now. sb enuff time to kickstart the pig.
  20. JakeTheSnake0528

    JakeTheSnake0528 Adventurer

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    EAEE5C5B-67BA-45AA-A250-FDD55300CCC2.jpeg Just picked my 01 up a couple days ago. Here’s my wiring situation. This isn’t stock, is it?

    Attached Files: