XR650R electricity

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by themansfield, Jan 8, 2009.

  1. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    Hey all,
    I own. a California model xr650r 20002. Has baja designs kit, DC regulator under the seat. I had a shop install a Ricky stator 200 w and a fan back in January. I never saw the fan work. I attributed it to not being needed, has a XR's only fan, thermocouple. A month or so the electricals died except for the ignition. I took it back to same shop. Was told it was misfired, both DC loops wired together providing all 200w burned out the fan immediately. Once one loop removed, they said, everything came back. Perfect!. Except it's not, now it's about as dim as under the original stator. You have to rev the piss out of it for any headlight, and fan. Fan doesnt come on until after 3000 rpm. That said, battery is dead.

    Any ideas on what can be done to fix this? Not properly grounded? I'd asked for one of the loops to the headlight. Not done. It's a green and white wire.

    Great bike otherwise, had it many years. Looks like to keep it running I need to understand the particular electrical issues, as I dont think these shop people do. Thabks
  2. Desertskyy

    Desertskyy Always looking for an adventure

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    Is the fan hooked up to the battery or to the stator directly?

    Also what type of riding are you doing that you would need a fan? Street riding?

    The reason that I ask is that in the 17 years that I have owned my bike it has only boiled over one time and it was my fault as I let it idle in a boulder garden as I stepped off my bike and watched the riders behind me pick through the boulders to meet up with me. I have never considered a fan as being needed for the riding that I do.
  3. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    Shop appears to have wired to the stator. The battery is toast so that needs replacing for sure.

    I ride it hard desert, dual sport and occasionally mountain trails, 4x4 tracks. I never saw it overheat either, but wanted to ride it out of state in traffic as my travel bike. Here in CA we can split lanes, so even in hot LA traffic I could keep moving. In Seattle, other high traffic areas, not so much?
    Also if stuck in a rural slow moving road such as in Yellowstone.

    Thanks for any tips..been best dual sport ever. 37k on it. Buddy has 78k. We love what it does.

    Had entertaining thoughts of making this a long distance dirt capable camp off of bike. Still has lots of compression, changed the oil every 6,800 miles max, rotella, yada yada.

    Thanks
  4. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    Normally wiring two stator outputs together won't cause any problems. Having more watts available doesn't cause anything to burn up...loads like fans, lights, etc. merely draw the current they need.

    Typically things burn up with an internal short in a load, when it suddenly draw large amounts of current from the stator. This can also damage wires/connectors if each feed isn't fused.

    If it happened due to joining the two circuits it's most likely due to the way they're joined. Could be a number of things...incompatible grounding or battery connections are among them.

    I'd start with putting in a known good battery...
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  5. Davethestick

    Davethestick Long timer

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    Ok first off, find a better shop that knows these bikes. If you're running all DC, it shouldnt be that difficult. I run a 50w Spal fan on the right radiator and the voltage reflected on my trail tech computer when I turn it on via the switch observes about .2 volts change so with 200w you should be more then able to run that set up.

    I have basically the same set up as you so let me see if I can comment a little bit. The key for the BD dual sport kits is hard into the harness so if thats working ok, then you may be ok.
    Start tracing wires from the Stator. The two yellow wires should be going into the regulator rectifier and in turn you get 12v out. Ive had good luck with the Trail tech adjustable regulator rectifier handling both yellow wire leads reliably. You definately want all the accessories running through a battery like @Gildus says.

    It should go without saying that your fan should be fused as well. I run a small fusebox under the headlight.
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  6. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    A bad or overloaded regulator/rectifier can also cause strange symptoms.

    They seem to fail more frequently than other electrical components (except maybe batteries).
  7. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    Thanks. I'm going to order the battery today. Who makes the regulator?

    These issues seem solvable..my buddy offered me his ktm690 when he heard of these issues. . Those bikes have issues of their own!
  8. Davethestick

    Davethestick Long timer

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    I've had good luck with this one over the years: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...44-20&linkId=4984112e4447346fd3d9dc6297e33ce8

    Regulator is AC only. Regulator Rectifier is AC/to DC. I run the trail tech
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...44-20&linkId=a0f655a38485b0359c7efcb8a5213423
  9. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    Agree w Dave, the Trail Tech 150w reg/rec is a solid choice.

    With you on 690s having their own issues!
  10. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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  11. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    That trail tech regulator looks pretty useful. Read the description, what is. "Floated ground?" Also what do the 6 wires do, would I wire in 2 of the ricky Stator 100w loops on parallel the 2 dc wires out?

    Thanks
  12. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    Floated ground means you're not using the frame as a ground...rather, all loads have return wires to the negative terminal of the battery.
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  13. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    Got it thank . I ordered the battery. I may get the regulator, wire the 2 stator loops parallel. What I need is a brighter headlight, and fan to work with current at low rpm when we need it, crawling around rocks.

    Thanks
  14. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    Ricky Stator

    upload_2020-6-9_16-17-36.png
  15. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    You connect the two white wires to one yellow input wire from the reg/rec...then connect the two greens to the other yellow wire.
  16. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    Thanks
    That's very useful. Appears the shop ran 100 w loop thru rectifier, runs lights now and brake, etc. No better really than b4 Ricky stator upgrade. They had both loops going in b4 but said messed up the fan which has no protection.

    The trail truck rectifier is only good for 150w. I was hoping to get a LED headlight of some kind but may be best to run that loop up to the headlight only, outnin a better halogen. I have seen ac to dc bulb converters like this may solve it https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/Cyclops-100-H4-LED-headlight-bulb_p_192.html

    I eventually want to get the bike safe at night if I have to return from a trail later than thought. I want to use it as my primary trip, camp bike, have the juice needed for safety.

    Thanks, diagram may come in handy. Looks like a better rectifier than what is on the baja designs kit.

    Might be a while b4forni can solve it but I need to trace the wires to the left handlebar switch and see if it has 2 different circuits for power. Easy peasy then to rig ac for the headlight. If not, anyone make a better more power rectifier than trail trick?
  17. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    Connecting both loops shouldn't have damaged your fan...they must have screwed up and shorted something.

    In any case, the fan circuit should always have it's own fuse...I use a 5a with mine. The wire and connectors should be checked for overheating.

    One thing to consider about reg/rec power ratings. Most handlebar switches these days don't allow you to turn off the headlight, so in that situation you can reduce the rating of the r/r by the wattage of the headlight bulb. What heats up an r/r is the amount of unused power the unit has to shunt to ground.

    For example, with a 200w stator powering a 60w headlight all the time, you only need a reg/rec rated for 140w. Of course you want a little headroom on top of that.

    150 watts is about the limit of the tympanium-type reg/recs everybody uses. You can move up to a mosfet type to get more capacity with better efficiency & reliability.
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  18. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    I see...makes some sense. Right now the fan is on above 160 degrees they say, and I can only see it work above say 3,4k rpms . Will get going on battery first, then see.
  19. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    Didn't realize the fan was turning on...good news.

    Ideally it should come on at a higher temp...at 160 it'll be on pretty much all the time.
    cbig likes this.
  20. Texas723

    Texas723 Adventurer

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    Going off of this post I think I have it figured out but want to double check.

    The goal is to have an all DC setup to power a taillight, brake light, 2 led headlights and eventually a Trail tech dash and charge a phone.

    I have 2 on-off-on rocker switches to act as high beam-off-low beam for each of the two led headlights (don't think this works since the light only comes on in one of the on positions) and a separate kill switch. No indicators no horn no key. Just want the ability to be control each light separately.

    I believe the bike currently has an AC/DC setup as shown in the first picture below since it has a Green Wire and a White Wire going to a SH514-12 rectifier.

    If I combine a White wire from the W/G pair to a White from the W/W pair to a yellow lead from the Reg/Rec and combine the Green wire from the W/G pair to a White from the W/W pair to the other yellow lead from the Reg/Rec that will convert the bike to all DC and I can remove the SH514-12. Then from the "Green" Reg/Rec connect the Red lead to the Red battery and the Black lead to the Black battery I will have a floating ground and can power everything from the battery. I'll need to add an on-off switch somewhere to turn the tail light off but am I on the right track?

    (The bike previously was wired with a bunch of corroded wires and relays that worked but were starting to fray and break off so trying to simplify then clean it up with Deutsch connectors once I have it wired properly)

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