XR650R electricity

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by themansfield, Jan 8, 2009.

  1. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    Yep, should work fine.

    No worries if you get the wrong pairs combined into the reg/rec for some reason, nothing bad will happen, just no output.

    Make sure to fuse the hot lead from the battery to your loads. The size of the fuse depends on wire gauge and load wattage.
  2. Texas723

    Texas723 Adventurer

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    I went ahead and did it. It worked!

    Just have to think of a clean way to add an on-off switch to the bike and figure out why the rear brake pressure switch isn't working but the bike is fully DC now, the battery can power the lights with the bike off on low beam and high beam, and zero flickering.
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  3. Texas723

    Texas723 Adventurer

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    Just seeing this message now but thanks your post from way back definitely helped me out!
  4. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    It is amusing, looking at all these photos of the bajadesigns stuff. They must have made a mint back in the day..
  5. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    just thought i would post a picture of my modified flywheel. and yeah the timing extension is a little long. i used a mig welder so lacking the control of tig i did not want to try to weld too small of a piece plus i can trim it back...
    0605202208.jpg
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  6. Lawman_745

    Lawman_745 Adventurer

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    Ok I've got my stator installed and I'm now onto wiring everything up. Im still a little confused on the best way to do it using what I have. I want to do the split 100w AC and 100WDC. I have a 150w trail tech regulator rectifier that I will use to power my Trail tech fan, Endurance speedometer, and the Tusk Dualsport kit blinkers, horn, and possible tail light. I currently have an led headlight that runs on the Tusk kit with hi low beam. Is there a way to run this off of the AC 100w side? I don't think my Tusk kit would handle a straight 200w DC setup but that would definitely be the easiest to do. What else would be needed to run my headlight on the AC side?
  7. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    LED headlights generally require DC...some (like Baja Designs) offer led lights that will work on AC, but these come with built-in reg/recs to convert to DC.
  8. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    ADV monster used to have one or two LED bulbs that ran on AC. last time I looked I didn't see them, but it has been a while... (ok they still have one bulb - H1 headlamp ac or dc - in the basement - probably not suitable for your h/l reflector). not likely that you are going to be able to feed AC to your led h/l.

    my personal preference in a split system is to run the main lites off the AC circuit and run all else off the DC circuit. that more or less splits the loads up evenly and gives everybody what they like best. but that really only matters when running incandescent bulb(s) due to their much higher current demand. in your case, i would just create an all DC system by paralleling the two stator windings. BUT... your r/r is not up to the task - 200w's of stator vs 150w's of r/r.

    have you totaled your DC loads? will you use led bulbs for tail/turn/brake? first thing would be to confirm that you will need both windings. if you do, then you will need to add another r/r for a total of two which takes valuable space and is silly when one will do the job. or buy this one or this one or the equivalent and sell your current one. if you go with the single high power r/r, i would look for a mosfet version - they run the coolest and have a better life expectancy. as there is little info on the items i gave you links for, i would definitely call them and get the skinny. if your total load running (add up those items which are on all the time the bike is running) and it's under 100w or ~8.5 amps, just run a single winding and null the other winding. connect the two leads together (or just ground one winding if the stator is common grounded) until you can acquire a r/r that will handle both the windings at the same time.

    you could do a split system if you have a suitable non led h/l. you would need an AC regulator but the stocker would do.

    if you want to post the numbers for your electrical parts, we can do the math together and check for sure what your options are right now - i am assuming you plan to be riding come the weekend...

    and apologies for any disappointments this post may bring...
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  9. Lawman_745

    Lawman_745 Adventurer

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    I've figured up some of the DC loads:

    Led headlight-40w
    Trail tech fan-30w when running
    Trail tech speedo-2w

    What I'm not sure of:

    LED blinkers (not sure if the led flasher relay also uses some wattage)

    Led tail/brake/license light

    Horn

    So the highest possible load on the system I could have would be sitting at a stop sign, headlight on, blinker on, brake on, fan on, blaring the horn lol.
  10. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    horn is the big winner - basically a big dead short. but how often do you use your horn? it's a momentary thing used intermittently. blinkers prob 20w per side max, but they are pulsed, led flasher couple watts max, brake light 3w, tail lite prob .5 watt, horn - hella universal hi/low pair 20w .

    what you using for a battery?
  11. Lawman_745

    Lawman_745 Adventurer

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    2000mah nicad pack
  12. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    The LED signals, brake/tail & license lights use very little wattage. Looks like you'd be fine using just one winding and wrapping up the other for future use, like esteyes suggested.

    I wouldn't count the horn in the calculations, since it's rarely used and will work fine from a 2ah battery for short bursts.
  13. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    crap! i replied to your post and it appears my post went off into the ether... anyway i did find this for a regulator. no personal experience so hopefully someone can comment on reliability...

    blinkers 5-10w/bulb so 20w max when flashing a pair
    tail light 3-5w
    stop 10-20w
    separate license plate light 3w
    horn hella's base m/c horn is 15w, their top end dual is 2x66w

    135w is my guesstimate based on your parameters. reality is more likely 100w -h/l, fan, trailtech, blinker, stop, brake, tail, license plate

    what are you using for a battery? nevermind, just saw it.
  14. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    Wasn't he looking for LED wattage? Those look like incandescent levels.
  15. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    you used to be able to buy the xr tail light lens with a clear strip at the bottom back that would shine white light onto your plate. 4strokesonly.com had a few but their website no longer appears. that gets rid of the separate lite for your plate. then you choose the t/s indicators carefully for min current demand as they will be what suffers when rpm's are low and brake light is pulling system voltage down - got to use electronic flasher designed for leds also (actually it's more the flasher that suffers). this is what i use for t/s lamps - they are dot legal. meant for trailers. it's like 3/4" dia.

    View attachment 2392576

    remember the big killer of r/r's is when you have high current system but use very little of it - the r/r is left to shunt lots of current to ground and that makes for a lot of heat. one reason mosfet r/r's are preferred.

    so i think you could run temporarily on one output of your stator. you may find that with the fan on, h/l on, a t/s on and a brake lite on that when sitting idling at a stoplite, your flashers may not flash, fan may run slow, etc. however even when both stator outputs are connected, the output may still not be sufficient to have everything working like a bike or car having an electrical system designed for street use (and having a real battery to draw from when charging output low). just the nature of the beast. hope you're planning to use a thermal fan switch

    btw i found fourstrokesonly and he still has the red/clear t/l's but you must buy the whole assembly. take your time if you go to andrew's site click on everything as there are pages hidden away with good stuff.

    Attached Files:

  16. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    gildus, i was putting up worst case numbers but t/s for example can be one led or 10 in a housing. i have seen a lot of different stop lite bulbs and all sorts of numbers. best scenario is to test what he is using to get accurate numbers.
  17. pvr1100s

    pvr1100s Adventurer

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    Hi All,
    Apologies in advance for asking some questions that are sure to be redundant. I've done some research and i think I have the answers, just looking for someone who is knowledgeable's blessing.

    I've upgraded to a 200W Stator so that I can run a Spal cooling fan. I've set up the stator to provide full 200W of DC power. I know this will overwhelm the regulator/rectifier and battery as it is now, but if I run a higher watt headlight (e.g. 55/60W or even 90/100W halogen) will the demand for more power take the load off it and allow the reg/rectifier to function reliably? Am I making a faulty assumption?

    Also, if I do run the 100W bulb, can the handlebar lightswitch handle the load (its a newer Baja Designs unit)?

    Thanks in advance for any insights
    Pete
  18. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    Your assumption is correct, whatever constant load you run (headlight, etc.), means less stress on the reg/rec.

    The Baja designs handlebar switch may run 100w fine for a while, but it's not rated for that much current and will likely fail at some point. You could have the handlebar switch operate a relay so that the current never goes through the bar switch, or you can run a beefier switch. The 650L switch can handle 100w with no problem.
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  19. pvr1100s

    pvr1100s Adventurer

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    Thanks Gildus, much aprpeciated!
  20. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    Hey all,
    Working thru some electrical issues on my xr650r. Appears my regulator is dead. Stator at idle shows 17, 29v thru both sets of leads. Wires appear intact going into voltage regulator, no current coming out. Its probably close to 20 yrs old but:

    I recently added a fan, and a new battery. Things were great for about a month or two. Fan kept her cool, new battery kept lights, fan on at stops. Was riding hard a couple street rides then off road at mammoth. Lights stopped working.

    I understand people are big fans of the trail trick regulator? I only have one set of the two green, white wires plugged into the regulator. Do you think the fan load on just one circuit of stator caused this or just time and coincidence?

    Any recommendations for a solid rectifier? I understand the trailvtrick has a relay that only allows dc current to flow when the ignition signal is received (bike running)

    I run stock headlight, wired appears DC. I did buy one of those wheel house LED super bright tail lights I want to install as well. I'm hoping this combo keeps me out of needing both ricky stator loops?

    Suggestions on best regulator or where to get?

    Thanks,
    Chuck