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XR650R electricity

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by themansfield, Jan 8, 2009.

  1. esteyes

    esteyes Been here awhile

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    Oct 6, 2019
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    104
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    Escondido in SoCal
    http://www.thumpersonly.com/index.html shows the 150w r/r for $40, no extra/fancy features tho'. he's in pasadena i believe, and i think you can arrange will call.
    <<interestingly, he lists 150, 200 & 250w stators for xr650r's>>

    cbig said " Stator at idle shows 17, 29v thru both sets of leads." not sure i understand what wires you used for these measurements... but if you mean you have output from both halves of the stator, ok, that's good

    assuming an all DC system, most of the fans i have looked at would likely cause the electrical system needs to excede the 7 or 8 amps that is supplied by only using one set of windings.

    any reason not to use both windings besides having to buy two r/r's and find a home for them? there's a gripe... why does no one sell a 200w capable r/r when they sell only 200w stators.

    btw cbig i live in escondido. more than happy to help in any way...
  2. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    Sep 30, 2003
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    Whittier, CA
    Thanks for the tip! I'll probably pick up the trail trick regulator. I may be able to keep the watts below the need for both loops to be run with the new LED tail light. Trying to get this bike prepped for a fall color ride tour in September. I did look thru the newn4 strokes stuff hoping I could pick one up. No go. I'll order online.

    Thanks
  3. esteyes

    esteyes Been here awhile

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    btw, if not using one winding, best to ground both wires of the unused winding as this will null any effects of the winding and eliminate parasitic drag also. it will be just like it is not there plus it guarantees no accidental output shorting to the harness or frame etc.

    please don't forget to examine the oem harness ground esp between the frame ground point and the harness splice - honda used a small gauge (but ok for the stock elec sys) wire but as people add lights, horns etc that wire gets used hard. i have seen many with bubbled insulation from more current than it was designed for - esp when r/r wiring is tied to the oem harness ground and not directly to the frame. it's an ez thing to overlook but important to check for a reliable elec sys.

    led t/l will cut down on wattage demands. led h/l even more but brings poor light pattern if doing retrofit into halogen lamp.

    most welcome. anytime.
  4. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    Feb 5, 2012
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    Sounds like the stator is fine.

    The usual culprit is the reg/rec. Yours seems to be toast.

    The fan load wouldn't have caused this...just a coincidence.

    Trail Tech reg/recs are a solid choice.

    You can tell when to add the second stator circuit when, with your normal loads, the voltage drops too far when above 4500 rpms (peak output range).
    Davethestick and cbig like this.
  5. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    If you ground the unused stator winding, how would this be different than accidentally shorting it to harness or ground?

    In any case, Trail Tech recommends not connecting lighting coil AC output to the same point (frame) as the ignition AC output. No problem, however, grounding the DC negative lead coming out of the reg/rec.

    People have been wrapping unused lighting coil outputs for many years without issues.
  6. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    Question,
    I received the trail tech 150 water model 7004. It has black, red which in my set up goes to battery and runs the dc stuff, lights. 2 yellows I assume are for power from 1 or both loops the ricky stator?

    So for example, if i wanted to run both loops i wire both hots from the stator to 1 yellow, and both returns to the other?

    Or is the red/yellow the return feed?

    Thanks
  7. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    For a combined output with a ricky stator, you combine the two green stator output wires and connect them to one of the yellow input wires for the reg/rec, then combine the two white stator output wires and connect them to the other yellow reg/rec input. Doesn't matter which yellow wire you pick for each. If you don't want a combined output just tape off one green/white pair.
  8. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    Perfect. That's what I thought. Just opposite ends of a ac transformer. What of the red/yellow? Some kind of ground to stator or frame if the bolts holding it down don't do so?
  9. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    The red/yellow is for when you want to use the relay function to keep power on for an adjustable period (2-30 seconds if I remember right) after the engine turns off.

    With this setup you wire the red lead to the battery positive and connect the red/yellow to your loads.

    The more traditional way is to use the red lead to the battery pos and to your loads directly. I prefer this option since I use headlight and other switches to control power. If you go this route you can just tape up the red/yellow.
  10. cbig

    cbig Rift- Raft, SCooter Trash

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    Yes, I see that on the schematic I found. Sounds interesting! I occasionally forget to turn off the power on this bike. .may try it.
  11. KneltSpin

    KneltSpin n00b

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    May 24, 2019
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    7
    Location:
    southern pines, nc
    Is anyone out there all DC with a squadron sport dual sport light off the stock stator? Current system is stock stator/light and tusk dual sport kit with the nicad battery by itself. On paper, the stock stator should handle the dual sport kit and squadron sport light (26w) - I would need a rec/reg of course and then would also be using the small nicad pack.
  12. Gildus

    Gildus Long timer

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    I haven't tried it, but if all your lights/signals are LED you could probably make it work. Remember that the stator is only putting out rated power above about 4500 rpm, so it might make sense to go with a slightly bigger/better battery to get through periods of idling without excessive battery drain. The nicad battery pack (any nicad battery, actually) is a liability...much better options out there.
  13. KneltSpin

    KneltSpin n00b

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    I went with the tusk dual sport kit (pieced together, not whole kit) and rec/reg, running squadron sport light. No issues so far and the battery charges fine. I am in the process of rewinding the stator myself so that I can run other devices if need be.
    pigjockey, Gildus and Davethestick like this.
  14. neonfreak

    neonfreak Been here awhile

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    Location:
    Austria
    I have a question and i'm pretty sure it was covered before in this thread, but it's a bit hard to skim through this info.
    My XR650R is the European model, i think 75W stator if i read that correctly. This rectifier is installed:
    $_59.JPG
    This system does not have a battery, but a 35W/35W headlight and indicators.
    I would like to run a Garmin GPS (or a roadbook and Tripmaster) and a maybe an LED headlight off of that. Could you please tell me where on my bike is DC 12V to get the supply for the GPS? I tried hooking up the LED light to the headlight, but it flickers and it is not really bright. I assume the headlight is supplied with AC and the LED does not work properly with that - also high fluctuations in brightness with RPM.
    I'm not sure what or where to measure to distinguish between AC and DC as my Multimeter gets readings for both settings.
    I tried getting the Electrosport Stator recently, but after 2 separate stators with quality issues out of the box, i sent it back and want to find another solution.

    Thank you for your help
  15. KneltSpin

    KneltSpin n00b

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    Hot Black from the rec/reg should be split and lead into the instrunment panel and the lights/dimmer/horn/turn signal switch. If you wanted to tap into hot DC, I would make a split three way connector off that hot DC (haven't seen one of these bikes personally but sounds like you can do it off the black wire leading to the handlebar switch). Brown wire from the stator (think its brown after as well) should be the separate AC circuit. If you wanted to get more DC, you could rewind your stator yourself on the DC side to get more wattage and bypass the AC stuff into an aftermarket rec/reg. Only reason gfor this would be to run an LED headlight.

    So basically you can plug in your GPS by tapping into the DC you have now and running the light off AC
    Or you can bypass the AC stuff and convert to full DC with a rec/reg and a small battery.
    neonfreak likes this.