XR650R electricity

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by themansfield, Jan 8, 2009.

  1. XRider

    XRider Almost Lifelike

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,295
    Location:
    Los Gatos, CA
    Sorry, for some reason I thought you were talking about a 650R not a 600R. That makes it a little differant but the lighting coil wires are the same colors. So if after you plug the green and white wires into the yellow wires from the reg/rect, if you have two extra white wires it's a B.D. rewind. If you have a green and a white wire left over it's a ricky.
  2. trackhead

    trackhead Utard Wankster

    Joined:
    May 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,754
    Location:
    Transient
    The OP had the green/white in a regulator, then the other two two whites into another Baja regulator going out to the lights? Two regulators?

    When you measure AC directly from the stator, do you put the red lead on one output, and the other grounded to frame?

    I suck at electrons.

    Thanks.
  3. 4play

    4play Next?

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,053
    Location:
    Prescott Valley, AZ
    You measure across the leads
  4. trackhead

    trackhead Utard Wankster

    Joined:
    May 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,754
    Location:
    Transient
    Thanks.
  5. XRider

    XRider Almost Lifelike

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,295
    Location:
    Los Gatos, CA
    It sounds like you've got a dual output system with a DC reg/rect and an AC regulator. That can be a tricky set up because you have to "float" the ground on the AC circuit. What that means is the AC circuit must be isolated and insolated from the frame. The frame being the DC ground. If you don't float the ground nether system will work.

    Working on a bikes electrical system sucks but if you mess with it long enough it will start to make sence.
  6. trackhead

    trackhead Utard Wankster

    Joined:
    May 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,754
    Location:
    Transient
    Well right now the bike runs great, but I just can't figure out the DC side of it.

    So the output to the coil goes through an AC regulator then to the coil as AC?
  7. numbbutt

    numbbutt Crashing with style

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    47
  8. XRider

    XRider Almost Lifelike

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,295
    Location:
    Los Gatos, CA
    The output to the (ignition) coil comes from the ICM (CDI box). Power to the ICM is AC but does not go through the AC regulator. It's a completely differant circuit and has it's own stator winding. In addition to this there is two more windings in the stator used for lighting that have nothing to do with the ignition. In your system each of these windings gets it's own regulator and one of them gets rectified to DC also. So three circuits come out of the stator, power to ICM (AC), 125w lighting circuit to the AC reg, and 125w lighting curcuit to the reg/rect (DC) and battery.
  9. XRider

    XRider Almost Lifelike

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,295
    Location:
    Los Gatos, CA
    XRider,
    As you appear to be the authority on the BRP wiring here is what I have.

    Im running a modded BD DS kit, 2- 55w hella offroad lights, battery, gps, turn sigs, horn ,bla bla bla.

    I want to run a split ac/dc system with 1 55w light on all the time connected to a ac reg.

    all the other stuff on a dc reg/rec.
    I have a electrosport 200w stator, out of the stator the following wires:
    pink
    white
    white
    green
    black/red
    blue/white
    white/green
    brown
    On my last rendition of my wiring job I blew both headlight bulbs( bulbs are cheap, the gps isnt! ) I dont seem to be able to find any schematic that matches the wiring colors andd does the job I am looking for....
    Thoughts?
    Thanks[/quote]

    How attached to the Electrosport stator are you? Those things are a nightmare. I honestly think you'll have a much easier time of it if you send your stock one to be re-wound or pick up a ricky. I think I may still have the aplication notes for the electrosport but I'll have to look and get back to you.
  10. numbbutt

    numbbutt Crashing with style

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    47
    How attached to the Electrosport stator are you? Those things are a nightmare. I honestly think you'll have a much easier time of it if you send your stock one to be re-wound or pick up a ricky. I think I may still have the aplication notes for the electrosport but I'll have to look and get back to you.[/quote]

    Well...........
    It is a low hour unit, I already have it, it is already on the bike, i'm a cheap bastard. What is the fundamental difference in the stators BD, Ricky vs. e.sport?
    thanks
  11. jdubb75

    jdubb75 Vicarious Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,401
    Location:
    Deep South(ern) Indiana
    Here is a link to a tech article from Baja Designs. I think it does what you are looking for and you can buy the pre-wired relay from them for about $25. PN - 12-9010

    http://www.bajadesigns.com/2005%20Web%20Site/PDF%20Files/Stator%20Instructions/XR650R%20with%20Quick%20Release%20Dual%20Sport%20Kit.pdf


    Here is the instructions/schematic for the Electrosport stator. You will have to cross reference which wires corresspond to one another.

    http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/fitting-instructions/electrosport-esg440-fitting-instructions.pdf
  12. numbbutt

    numbbutt Crashing with style

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    47
    The issue I cannot figure out is if I can split the two leads from the electrosport stator, 1- for the dc system up front and 1- to power a always on 55w light on ac with a regulator. If I can, how do I come up with the neg. sides of both systems? the Stator has had a green and a pink wire both capped and unused in the current configuration
    Trying to button this up as I leave in 2 weeks for death valley... any additional thoughts??? anyone???
  13. XRider

    XRider Almost Lifelike

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,295
    Location:
    Los Gatos, CA

    The trouble with the electro sport stator is that it's not very easy to have a dual voltage (AC & DC) system. The only way that I know of to do it goes like this:

    The Esport stator has 3 lighting coils, two 100w, and one 50w. The 50w coil is the only one that is isolated from the other two and that's the one that you will connect to the regulator/rectifier and the battery. So the pink and the yellow wires on the stator connect to the yellow wires on the reg/rect. Now comes the nightmare part. Since 50w DC isn't squat you really can't run any lights with it and if it's going to work at all you have to float the DC ground. So you can power a gps and charge a cell phone but that's about it. And the circuit has to be isolated and insolated from the frame. For lights you take one of the white wires and connect it to one of the wires from the AC regulator, it doesn't mater which one. Connect the other wire from the AC reg to the frame (ground). Connect your light to the white wire/reg wire pair. The other side of the bulb goes to the frame. Of course you should have a fuse and a switch in there too, connect them before the regulator. You'll need 2 circuits like this, one for each of the white wires with 1 light for each circuit. This is why I don't like esport stators.
  14. numbbutt

    numbbutt Crashing with style

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    47
    "The Esport stator has 3 lighting coils, two 100w, and one 50w. The 50w coil is the only one that is isolated from the other two and that's the one that you will connect to the regulator/rectifier and the battery. So the pink and the yellow wires on the stator connect to the yellow wires on the reg/rect. Now comes the nightmare part. Since 50w DC isn't squat you really can't run any lights with it and if it's going to work at all you have to float the DC ground. So you can power a gps and charge a cell phone but that's about it. And the circuit has to be isolated and insolated from the frame. For lights you take one of the white wires and connect it to one of the wires from the AC regulator, it doesn't mater which one. Connect the other wire from the AC reg to the frame (ground). Connect your light to the white wire/reg wire pair. The other side of the bulb goes to the frame. Of course you should have a fuse and a switch in there too, connect them before the regulator. You'll need 2 circuits like this, one for each of the white wires with 1 light for each circuit. This is why I don't like esport stators."

    OK,
    So if I stay with the electrosport should I just get a higher rated reg/rec than my BD unit and make the entire system dc??. I could install the reg/rec under the seat and run a new circuit lead forward to power everything up front. As my electrosport unit it a 200w, it has plenty of power, who has a good 250w reg/rec?
  15. XRider

    XRider Almost Lifelike

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,295
    Location:
    Los Gatos, CA
    Ricky stator makes a heavy duty reg/rect but you can't connect the Esport stator for single output. In fact I don't think you can run the 100w coils to a reg/rect anyway. You can only get DC from the 50w coil. It's the only one that is isolated. As far as I know the way I described it in the last post is the only way to get both AC and DC power from the Esport. That's why I never use them, they're not very flexable.
  16. Ironwood

    Ironwood Friday Harbor, WA

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,022
    So I just installed my 200 watt stator and was wondering what the best way to pull off 3 runs to power grips, a vest and a gps. It is a Baja Designs kit and I have it all running into the BDK harness and through the BDK rectifier. BD tech said it was fine to do that and their rectifier could handle the power.

    I tried to run just one 100 watt output to the BDK but after I put the 55/65 H-4 bulb I noticed dimming with the turn signals. It could have been because my battery was completely dead at startup and was sucking a lot of the current. So I put both outputs together and it stopped the dimming.

    I first wanted to run the second output to a dc regulator and then to a fuse block under the seat for my additional loads. And I may still do that if my lights work better after I charge the battery. I just didn't see a clean way of pulling the extra watts off of the BD kit.

    Any suggestions from the Gurus of Electricity.

    Joe
  17. XRider

    XRider Almost Lifelike

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,295
    Location:
    Los Gatos, CA
    The best place to pull power from is at the battery. Be sure to install a fuse and a switch so the grips and vest don't kill the battery when the bike isn't running.
  18. pwrtrippin

    pwrtrippin Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2009
    Oddometer:
    501
    Location:
    Woodland Park,CO
    look into a fuzeblocks.com FZ-1 or Farkleshop.com units, I've got a Farkleshop one right noe, going to try an FZ-1 unit next. With the FZ-1 you can connect straight to the battery and activate a relay off the switch to turn on and off all power.
  19. RED1

    RED1 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2007
    Oddometer:
    493
    Location:
    The High Country, Vic, OZ
    I don't know if this will help, this is the wiring from an Australian model XR650R which has AC/DC ciruit.
    [​IMG]
  20. peterhively

    peterhively Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2006
    Oddometer:
    255
    Wow lots of great info here!

    Just wanted to run this by you guys, I have an XR650R with Baja Designs Dual Sport Kit and Baja Designs dual wound stator. On the AC side all I have is a 55/60W headlight. On the DC side I have the horn, blinkers, stock tailight, and BD LED tailight/brakelight.

    I'm planning to put Symtec grip warmers on the AC side, and a Gerbing's jacket on the DC side. The grips use a hi/lo/off switch and can run on AC. The jacket has a pulse width modulator type heat controller so it has to be on DC.

    AC = 55/60W headlight + 36W max grip warmers = 96W max. That should be OK, other than maybe having reduced power at low RPMs right? At low RPM I'll be on low beam and low setting on grips, they are the Symtec grips, no resistor = less power used on low.

    DC = should be OK as it is 77W max, and I very rarely turn it up past halfway, and with the controller less heat = less power.

    Sound good?

    Peter