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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by JustinT, Nov 24, 2008.
There are some pros and cons either way but breaking the frame isn't an issue.
No need to remove airbox, just disconnect the throttles cables, loosen the carb clamps, and take the carb out the side.
As a general rule, you have to choose a waterproof multi-connector plug type based on the current going through them - more current means bigger plugs. Here's what I use mostly:
For the most compact waterproof plug for wires carrying up to 3 amps it's hard to beat JST (JWPF) plugs. I used an 8 pin version (plug on left) to combine all the smaller wires Trail Tech gives you with a Vapor or Voyager. The pins are small and it takes a bit of practice to get the hang of wiring them, but they're awesome connectors when you do.
For wires carrying more than 3 amps (up to 7.5 amps, 16-22 gauge wire) the Deutsch DTM plugs are my favorite...totally bulletproof. You can save some money by buying Amphenol ATM connectors (really the same thing). For low profile wiring for custom bikes, some harness builders will just use the crimped pins with a tiny drop of solder to tack them together and cover them with heat shrink. When you need to disconnect, you just melt the solder and they pull apart. I have a few connections done this way on my bike. Deutsch DT or Amphenol AT connectors are good for up to 13 amps and work the same way, just bigger.
Tyco AMP connectors are also a good way to go and are relatively inexpensive & waterproof. I use these on my fuse block.
You can see all three types below with my Voyager Pro...JST, DTM and TYCO (behind blue cover)
I'd plan to let that soak for a couple of days, while tapping occasionally and keeping it wet. When you get ready to try it I'd use heat and SLOWLY work the bolt both directions, little by little while you use more PB, tapping and heat. Stop before you feel the bolt stretching and go back the other direction. If you're patient you'll probably get it, especially since the other one came out ok.
Both of mine were completely frozen but came out eventually!
Rob Barnum. There is no one better.
Precision Concepts does a great job, but they tend to stick with their proven setup. I think Rob is more willing to tweak the valving for specific kinds of riding.
My opionion :
The rim locks keep a tire from walking or rotating on the rim. They can help a bead stay on, but are quite poor at it. It really only locks what, 5% of the bead length to the rim?
On my DR650 I added rim locks for off roading. I still had probably 3, maybe 4 rear flats, and the bead was very quickly broken. Only time it held occured on-road, minutes after a fuel stop and tire check (must have picked up debris). I then added a 2nd bead lock on the rear opposite the 1st. The benifit was MUCH less weight to balance the tire, and much less unsupported bead length, which should lend to less of a chance of the bead coming off. Of course, I also learned at that time that a 380 lb hippo of a bike is much happier off road with 15-16 psi in the tires where the trail, same tires, on a real dirt bike I'd run maybe 13/11 F/R. So now I haven't pinch flatted a tire in some time to test the two rim lock theory.
My rambling point? 1 rim lock keeps the tire from spinning on the rim at low pressures. 2 rim locks should help keep the bead set in case of a flat. Tubliss is a spectacular bead lock with a flat tire, so long as the inner bladder doesn't go flat itself. Or Mousse and forget about it, until the next tire change wrestling match.
The tire sidewall stiffness can significantly affect how the tire handles and or how quickly it comes off the rim when flat. Take a Kenda 270 vs a Sedona HP for instance. The Sedona will look a bit low on air while the Kenda sidewall folds over and is virtually un-ridable, or even worse , if a sudden deflation occurs at high speeds the tire folds over in a corner you are going down.
I run 7-8 PSI on the Sedona with HD tube on and off road, including roots and sharp rocks with no pinch flat. The rim has plenty of rubber from the impacts but so far has not deflated.
That's a really helpful reply @Gildus, many thanks. Ordered some Tyco AMP connectors.
Super good info about connectors there Gildus; very helpful as usual!
I'm curious about another thing here... my clutch cable is stretched to its limit and routed in a funny way thanks to my BRP/GRP stabilizer upper clamps and spacers (I'm tall). Since I last bought motion pro custom cables their prices have gone up and I'm curious if anybody has a clue about if there are other bikes with usable but longer clutch cables? I'm concerned that the way my clutch cable is routed will cause it to fail at an inopportune time. TIA.
Nice work there Gildus, very tidy harness !
I am putting on a clarke tank and discovered the mount holes are too close together. The mounts, original from the existing tank, are plastic and could be drilled to increase the hole size and therefore reduce the gap. See pic. What do people think? Suck it up and drill an offset hole in the mount or get another tank?
I am concerned that drilling more plastic out of the mount will weaken it. I remember reading that clarke tanks sometimes had alignment issues and I am not sure on the best way to deal with it.
Eh, just duct tape it
I am a little pissed off that it is not correct. Also, give my style of riding (bad) I am likely to end up upside down after a crash, and having a single mounting bolt on one side rip out of the tank, pouring leaking petrol over me and the bike, isn't filling me with confidence. I could buy another mount and try to drill the hole larger, but as I said, it will weaken the mount.
Drilling the mount holes closer together will not weaken the mount.
If you are really concerned then you could use the chaff from the drilling mixed with epoxy to build up the plastic, but that's really not needed.
the mount appears to be in tension, the slots wont be loaded, therefore an acceptable change .I have several reduced thread bolts on my suzi, which if you drilled rather than slotted maybe a better fix for your problem.
That's a 6mm hole, it's off by about 3 mm, maybe 4 mm. Slot both holes 1.5 to 2 mm and you should be good to go and not have to worry about strength or alignment.
I don't think strength will be an issue but beware if you slot only one bolt hole, the mounting hole to the frame (the rubber piece) will be positioned according to the non-slotted hole. If you slot both holes the mounting hole to the frame will move accordingly. I would try first bolting the mount to the tank with one bolt (like in your picture) and test how it lines up. Then try the other hole if it lines up better with that. Then decide which hole (or both) to slot. It might be different on both sides.
I had slight fitment issues with my IMS 4.6 tank as well. I left the bolts loose on the mounts (the mounts have little play), bolted the long bolt thru the rubber piece to the frame and then adjusted the tank to best fitment and then tightened the actual mount bolts to the tank.
On the IMS tank the rad shrouds also needed heavy trimming to fit the tank and on the right side I had to make an extra piece to move the rad mounting hole because they didn't line up even close. So it wasn't even close to bolt-on but now fits very nice and I am happy with it.
^^ Defiantly Mount it up twice using a different bolt hole each time see which one fits best. My Clarke sat too close to the radiator crossover hose so I slotted the mount to fit correctly.
That tank to mount fit sucks.
OK lots of good responses but don’t get too concerned, I bet it would work most any way you do it.
But I personally would have the tank weighted on the bolt shank equally on both bolts
In other words the bottom bolt is installed with pressure on the tank pushing down Tighten the bolt till secure.
Now look at how much you need to elongate the top bolt hole just enough to clear the bolt shoulder
With a 1/8 “ carbide cylinder elongate the hole
It appears that is how your picture is oriented now (tank is higher), or if necessary do the same thing using the top bolt first for tank positioning (tank lower)
Now you have both bolts supporting the tank to the downside
Reason is you will 99.9% of the time never reach more than 1G load to the upside on the tank (1G negative) unless you crash.
But if you g out or case it, you might get a 15G load to the positive side
enough overthinking Im going Riding