Along the same lines as what the other guy said, I first learned what a Rim Lock was when I bought an IT400 that someone had removed the rim locks from after I ripped the rear valvestem with a harder launch on pavement, not dirt. I think rear rims should have 2 but my XR650R only has 1 on the rear. And braking can move a wheel bead too. I rode my old Transalp for 40 miles on the shoulder of a highway with a rear flat because the tire needed replaced anyway and the tube was too big also. Found this out on a camping trip when I fixed a flat that was due to the tube being too large and having folds in it. I got it fixed but it only lasted about 50 miles. Tire stayed on the rim with 1 beadlock but when I pulled it off to replace it the tube and rim liner were completely gone and there was some bad rim wear also but it got me a lot closer to my camp and trailer. Crabbing along at 15 to 20 MPH is different for sure. I rode my XR500 about 3 miles 1 time with a flat rear tire and it stayed on the rim with a beadlock also. It was prettty squirrely but that tire needed replaced too so I said hell with it and rode it home. Even had a tube and liner left that time.
It mounts on the triple clamp above the fender and comes with hoses and fittings to put it in line with oil flow. This was a spare unit and never used.
100-130 miles with the 3.2, 140-185 with the 4.6, depending on riding style and conditions. That's using the Lectron carb. You can get quite a bit less if you're constantly hammering it.
They said it’s non-repairable so I have a new Warp9 complete wheel on order. The speedo wasn’t working anyways so I’ll look into a Trailtech of some sort to put on this thing before summer.
I was about to comment on this. Seems likely they're going to move a lot of product this year. Just wish I had one of my old carbs around to send in instead of the stocker on the bike right now. I don't really enjoy down time!
I wonder if that's necessary unless you do some really hardcore racing with your Pig (like Team Honda would). I wouldn't complicate the oil system unless really necessary. Just keep to your oil changes and make sure it's always full of oil. I installed the sight tube for this reason, it's really easy to see the oil level at a glance even while riding. I think Honda uses oil cooler now on their CRF450 Rally bike tho..
If anyone is chasing a rear acerbis fuel tank and seat I've just listed one on the Aussie flea market.
It is actually common to have a crack on the front rim/wheel where the seam comes together I have seen a few including my own front rim/wheel. A replacement rim/wheel is in order. I had Woody's lace me up a new Excel using my hub a few years back. When buying a used stock replacement wheels one must look at the seam of the front to see if it has a seam crack. Good luck
Agree...keeping it clean and full is the main thing Plus watching oil temps. Mine don't get that high so I never installed the cooler. Might be different if I was running an Acerbis or rally fairing.
Had a nice 1/2 hour ride today, might be the last one this year as fall is definitely here now. First time out on the XR after I bought a YZ250 this summer, felt pretty good to be on it again. I think I've got my handlebars rolled forward too far though, my hands were killing me pretty soon. Or maybe it's time to try a different handlebar bend, the ones on my YZ feel much better. Kristian
Can't be sure but looks like your bars are angled right. I run Fasst Flexx bars and love em...my wrists take much less of a beating. Feels like adding an inch of suspension to the forks. They're not cheap but their Black Friday Sales (don't see it up yet) help a lot. https://www.fasstco.com/ Another option...Ron Wallace makes a nice upper triple that allows you to move the bars forwards and back. http://www.rswracing.com/xr650r.htm
That's a pretty nice triple clamp setup, way nicer and more adjustability than my home made risers. Spendy though. If I can't get it better with what I've got or a different bend I might have to splurge. Probably won't be doing any more riding this year anyway, winter showed up Monday night with our first snowfall. The weather might get nice enough for another ride or two, but I'm not overly optimistic about it. Kristian
I live in the SO CAL desert, so adding an aftermarket oil cooler might be a great option. Can anyone comment on which one they've tried and how well it works?
Common sense, what's wrong with trying to keep the oil temp as cool as possible anywhere? I have sensed there is usually some pushback to these topics on other forums. As in engine coolant, use the best to keep the motor operating at the most optimum level.
Yes, I live about 50 miles from Yuma, AZ, and it sometimes gets up to 120 degrees in the summer. Yesterday it was 88 degrees. On the Pacific side of Baja it is usually mid 80s during the summer.
There is optimal temp for oil too. Too cool and it won't burn off contaminants and cold oil also has more friction which can lead to premature bearing wear (and makes less power). Likewise too hot and the oil will start to break down and you can lose oil pressure. I think modern synthetic oils can handle pretty high temps before breaking down though. I would probably monitor oil temps first to see if they are too high and if the oil needs to be cooled. I know the climate here where I live is so cool that there's no need for an oil cooler but YMMV. 120f sounds pretty dang hot!
