XR650R Thread!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by JustinT, Nov 24, 2008.

  1. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    It allows the drysump tank to vent and oil to flow back to the oilpump. I guess it could be vented to atmosphere as well, but you might as well keep the oil mist/vapors within the engine/tank as a closed system.
  2. the_menno

    the_menno Forever Newb

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    XR650R Steering Stem Dimension

    Does anyone know if there is a technical drawing or dimensions out there for a 650R steering stem?
  3. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    Kai Ju said "It allows the drysump tank to vent and oil to flow back to the oilpump. I guess it could be vented to atmosphere as well, but you might as well keep the oil mist/vapors within the engine/tank as a closed system."

    thanx kai. i was asking cause i thought you might have a different perspective & saw something i missed. i have spent most of my life restoring english cars, building race cars and choppers, so i have had my hand in a fair amount of plumbing. the tank in a typical dry sump system was nearly always freely vented via some sort of air/oil separator as the main job of the tank, besides holding oil, was to deaerate the oil as quickly/efficiently as poss which meant zero restriction to exiting air. i understand why Honda did as they did - interesting that they plumb the GB500 the same even tho it has a separate (not in frame) oil tank. been playing w/ the air cooled XR oiling system quite a bit and found the oil from the frame tank must pass thru a 6mm hole (i have trouble understanding why) on its way to the down tube then to pump. I always half wondered if Honda expected the air delivered via the scavenge pump to pressurize the oil tank... i understand that the rocker box is an oil rich environment and not well suited to venting like the case vent placed in the gearbox.

    on another note, i have worked on many a CV carb as they were used plenty on english cars. as the major plus of an edelbrock or mikuni seems to be the accelerator pump, i always wondered why the dashpot was eliminated on Japanese CV carbs... the only thing i can think of is the maintenance factor - dashpots on SU & Stromberg carbs are filled w/ light oil that is exposed to engine vacuum thus requiring periodic topping up - would not be easy on an xr. just surprised that w/ the resources/engineering available to them they didn't seek a solution
  4. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    any known issues with welding on the frame? just found the right mounting tab for the subframe is no longer part of the of the frame.
  5. filippp

    filippp Adventurer

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    Nope. Just disconnect the cdi and battery. Just welded mine. Essentially isolate the electrical system from frying. Disconnect the stator too
  6. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    okay dokay thanx
  7. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob Supporter

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    The frame is a big lump, so pre-heat that to about 150 deg f. Welds a lot better.
    Gildus likes this.
  8. mad_dye

    mad_dye Adventurer Supporter

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    Please make sure you use the right welding rod. Japanese frames are air-hardening 7000 series alloy. You would want to use 5000 series welding rod, not 4000 series meant for 6061 alloy used in USA manufacturing. With the right welding rod, the frame would air harden with no requirement of heat treatment. Wrong welding rod would result in brittle Magnesium Silicate crystals and you wouldn't want that...
    Friedom, hockeyrick, xrsism and 2 others like this.
  9. Gildus

    Gildus Been here awhile

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    Great info...had no idea the frames were 7000 series.
  10. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    x2!! thanx mad_dye
  11. jcshew

    jcshew Been here awhile

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    Hi,

    I have this set of Applied Racing triple clamps. I know they go to an XR, but not sure if it's a XR650R or XR600R. Does anyone know what the diameter of the upper fork tube is on a 650R? Thanks

    Applied TClampxx.jpg
  12. dogsslober

    dogsslober No neck tie, Ti neck

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    46mm 650R, I think 43mm for the 600/650l
  13. jcshew

    jcshew Been here awhile

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    Thanks!!
  14. duckster1959

    duckster1959 Adventurer

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    Anybody with a Baja Designs headlight have theirs apart right now? I put a new bulb in and cant get it to work. Just wondering if the 2 wires circled are plugged into the right color. 20200123_052236.jpg
  15. DIYPSCM

    DIYPSCM Adventurer

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    On mine the brown wire from the bulb goes to a Y connector.... the other side of the Y goes to green and brown wires in the harness. The green wire from the bulb is paired with a red wire, and go to a Y connector. The other side of the Y is the green wire from the harness. I'd say yours matches mine. I have a Vapor speedo thing on there too and there's an uncomfortable shitstorm of wires up in there..... but everything seems to work. Cleaning it all up is on my list. Way down the list :evil
    duckster1959 likes this.
  16. pigjockey

    pigjockey Hognuts the T-bagger

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    Hey Duck head over to the vendors threads Baja Designs has a thread over there and I’m sure Bailey would be happy to assist you.
  17. esteyes

    esteyes Adventurer

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    i know the question below discusses an XR650L but i need a case saver for my BRP and now i am in a quandry... i have plenty of spares to rebuild the xrl, but no way do i want to break the BRP

    wondered if anyone knew of any engineering guidelines for case saver design? i ask because i recently broke an xr650l case due to a chain breaking using the stock case saver. initially i saw no damage, just a chain in three pieces. when i pulled the chain guard off to thread a new chain onto the sprocket i found the c/s had been forced back thus cracking the case. it seems to me that most case savers are designed to prevent the broken chain from coming off the sprocket and impacting the case in front of the sprocket. i'm not sure how to design a case saver to prevent what i suspect to be a wedging action where the chain bunches up and wedges between the sprocket and case saver cause excessive pressure on the c/s subsequently breaking the aluminum case. my case saver (stock honda , 16T sprocket) was a snug fit around the chain with a narrow area of entry...


    a quick search on google brings up multiple pix of XRR case savers. they all are fairly open entry pieces. looks like it would funnel chain into the sprocket and create a wedge... is that where i went wrong? i should have had more space?
    upload_2020-1-26_15-29-0.jpeg
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    upload_2020-1-26_15-36-19.jpeg
    upload_2020-1-26_15-36-44.jpeg
  18. pigjockey

    pigjockey Hognuts the T-bagger

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    That’s how case savers are designed, to let the chain unkink as it’s pulled around the sprocket. But sometimes it gets too wadded up to pass through in single file. You should buy an x ring chain with a higher tinsel strength than a plain chain and the typical o ring chain. Chain maintenance goes a long ways also. A staked master link is stronger than a clip master link too.
    yamahamxr likes this.
  19. Bhart89

    Bhart89 Long timer Supporter

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    Started the pig today for the first time in a few months. When I turned the peacock on I got the carb peeing out the drain tube. I assume the float is stuck. Can anyone recommend a good carb rebuild kit? Is OEM the best option?
  20. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    Gently tap the floatbowl with a screwdriver handle with the 'peacock' :lol3 in the on position. It might just stop the carb from leaking. The float needle is stuck and needs to be jarred loose in order to close.
    Probably won't need a rebuild kit as such if it doesn't. Usually just cleaning takes care of it.
    Bhart89 and pigjockey like this.