XR650R Thread!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by JustinT, Nov 24, 2008.

  1. masione

    masione masione Supporter

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    Thank you! Now, how can I tell if this stock exhaust system has been uncorked? The PO removed the two caps from the airbox and changed the main jet to a 175. So far, those are the only mods that are obvious...
  2. Desertskyy

    Desertskyy Always looking for an adventure

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    Stock tip that still has restriction in place (non drilled out)
    IMGP0045.JPG IMGP0046.JPG IMGP0049.JPG

    Factory Honda HRC tip
    IMGP0047.JPG IMGP0048.JPG IMGP0050.JPG

    XR650 Power up info.png
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  3. Desertskyy

    Desertskyy Always looking for an adventure

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    Was the oil filter in backwards?? Would not be the first time that this has happened
  4. catfishhands

    catfishhands Adventurer

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    I believe the rubber grommet was facing away from the bike. It was full of a brass like metal. He said it was losing power for approx a week, then it locked up at 70mph on the highway. He is not mechanically inclined. I went to check the oil to see if it had any in it at all. He had already drained it and said it had "quite a bit."

    Can an overfill froth the oil enough to fry the con rod bearing ?
  5. greasyfatman

    greasyfatman Long timer

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    Cap like this failed on my first ride on my 300. Temp indicator failed.

    on the 650 my fan had a temp indicator and the oil temp dip stick was the thing to watch.
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  6. thumprr

    thumprr Honda Lover

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    alabama
    May I ask a question? I have a 2006 XR650R super moto setup. I have it "uncorked". It has always ran great. It has always been fairly easy to crank. I have let it setup too long. Now when I turn the fuel on to crank it, the fuel flows through the carb and out the over flow. I am scared to try and crank it in this shape. I have a great mechanic that does my work, but I don't know what to tell him is wrong. I don't even remember exactly what jets was used when it was uncorked. I think 172/68s. This overflow issue I assume will be another jet? Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
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  7. Bigredwelder

    Bigredwelder Been here awhile

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    Does anyone have Bruce Borynacks shock valving settings saved that you'd be willing to share? I've searched and all the links I can find for the info are dead. No luck on the Wayback Machine either. I've found the fork info, but would like to get my hands on the shock valving as well. Thanks in advance!
  8. masione

    masione masione Supporter

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  9. bigkuri

    bigkuri Long timer Supporter

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    Clean the carb/floats. Modern fuel goes off and varnishes in a few months flat. It's an easy job just strip it and clean it all with proper carb cleaner, being gentle on everything. Takes a bit of cleaning to get it right. Drain your float bowl if parking it up...

    If you have not cleaned a carb before search on youtube - there are some good videos stepping you through it.
  10. masione

    masione masione Supporter

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    Can I use a master link with this drive chain? I need to replace this rusted up mess. Riveted X-ring type chain or can I upgrade to Z type o-ring with a master link?
  11. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    If you go with a master link, be sure to carry a spare, and to secure the clip on the master link.
    When I was road racing they signed off on securing it with 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, aka 'Gorilla Snot'. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40069421/
    It being yellow made a visual check real easy.

    Another option is to slip a piece of thin steel between the clip and the side plate and fold it over the clip from the bottom and the top.
  12. pigjockey

    pigjockey Hognuts the T-bagger

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    Wrong... the bike has an auto backfire suppression system kind of deal. And here’s how it works. The thing that’s called the auto decom. is only activated during reverse rotation ie a backfire at which time it immediately opens the exhaust valve to purge the cylinder pressure out the exhaust thus not kicking back thru the kick starter. This is why it’s crucial not to turn the motor backwards to set the valves. If you are experiencing low compression while kicking over your manual decom. is to tight, routed wrong or the valves are out of adjustment or the rings aren’t sealing. There is no real auto decom. that engages on forward rotation of the crank. The old xl’s had a auto decom hooked up to the kickstarter via a short cable. Many people get this wrong.
  13. Guano11

    Guano11 Stop me if you've heard this one....

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    A-HA! Thought there must've been something to it (and that my bikes didn't have any Stage 2 cam jobs, etc.). Your description certainly "fits" what I'm seeing at the decomp mechanism, and what I distinctly remember on that XL500R.:thumb

    So the cable that's attached to the decomp mechanism on the cylinder head is ONLY attached to the manual lever, correct? And the no-kick-on-backfire feature has no external adjustment?
    My thought is that my hard-start issue being tied to the decomp mechanism is NOT very likely -- and I don't want to pull the head, disassemble & reassemble the internal mechanism (which looks complicated) only to find it's not the culprit.

    Thanks @pigjockey :beer
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  14. Desertskyy

    Desertskyy Always looking for an adventure

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    Shoot me your e-mal in a message I have what you need
  15. Desertskyy

    Desertskyy Always looking for an adventure

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    You can use a master link chain but I believe a riveted master link chain is recommended by team Honda

    I run a DID ERV 3 chain
  16. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    Not to be argumentative, but I think there's both...

    upload_2021-6-29_13-30-5.png
  17. pigjockey

    pigjockey Hognuts the T-bagger

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    I don’t. If it did you would never be able to set the valves. So if it did have a fully auto one there would be no need for the manual one. I have never seen nor heard solid proof that it’s Auto in any way but for backfire protection for the riders leg. In the photos the decompression cam is for the manual decom. And the reverse cam is the auto backfire suppressor. :dunno
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  18. masione

    masione masione Supporter

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    Copy that. Got my eye on a tasty little gold Regina number. I will just have to break down and buy a rivet chain tool ( it will come in handy for my KTM SDGT as well)...
  19. pigjockey

    pigjockey Hognuts the T-bagger

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    You could try some Seafoam carb cleaner. Drain the fuel out either by pulling the fuel line or pull the carb drain screw which will need to be removed regardless. Pour some Seafoam and fresh fuel in the tank and shake the bike a bit. Throw a container under the bike and turn the fuel on for about a 1/2 minute to let the mixture wash out the crap in the carb. Tap on the carb float bowl with the handle of a screwdriver to jostle the float needle loose from the varnish caused from parking the bike with gas in the carb. The gas should stop flowing out the overflow hose when it breaks loose inside. Always turn off the fuel petcock and let the motor run out of fuel before any length of storage time. If storage is going to be for months drain the tank also. Or you can just tell your mechanic your float needle is stuck open.
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  20. EnduroReno

    EnduroReno Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2021
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    Thanks for the explanation !
    I'll get some more freeplay on the manual decomp. Maybe this will work.

    Otherwise, I can only say that if you kick the bike faster then it does some mechanical sounds in the cylinder head and then I have compression back. Works also if you have the manual deco engaged. Have no explanation for it. Happens only sometimes, never understood when it happens ... But mostly when I'm hanging out between 2 trees ...

    About float and so on ... I purchased the bike after it was standing for 3 years. No overfloat. Drained the old gas, pit fresh it ... it pissed like hell.
    Opened carb, cleaned it , got a Q-tip into my electric drill with tooth paste on it, made a short clean finish on the brass valve , cleaned it again, but new float valve in, adjusted float 1mm under sealing surface and here you go.
    Long story short, not a big deal, about 15 mins to do the job if the carb is out.
    Don't brush the hell out of the brass part on the carb, it's only to remove debris and give it a smooth finish for the new float valve.

    Sorry for my bad English ;)

    Reno