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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by onaXR, Jan 18, 2006.
Those look just fine to me!
Will probably do the same.
I want to second that and add that DG's customer service exceeded my highest expectations.
I purchased one of the new V2 mufflers a year or two ago when they were first released.
It looks great and sounds great, very pleased with the purchase.
My experience with their customer service is the mounting tab near where the muffler slips onto the header broke.
The one that bolts to the frame, it simply snapped at the welds.
It wasn't from crash damage, I was riding the bike very hard on sand roads and it was taking a beating.
(I broke a light mount that I had fabricated too lightly as well...zero crashes).
I contacted their customer service and was honest that I was racing the bike, they said return it and they would fix it.
I shipped it to them, they either re-welded the bracket or shipped me a new one and the turn around was quick.
That muffler sounds great, here is video of how it sounds...
Here is mine with about 6 inches removed.
From a ride this Thursday. Trimmed a few inches back years ago. Used a lighter to clean up the edges. Let the flame get close to the edge and it will melt the sharp corners from cutting and give you a nice rounded, glossy finish.
Hey Motorius, I've trimmed mine as well. I post a pic later.
Getting a clean even job is easy. I taped a piece of paper over the front of the fender. Measured and marked centerline. Drew what I thought would look good as far as radius. Pulled the paper, folded it in half at the centerline and cut it. Taped it back on, marked the edge and then cut the plastic.
I cut mine with tin snips. Filed a cleaned edge and then hit it with a propane torch to roll the edge like factory. The guys I ride with thought I got a new fender.
Honestly I did the first cut w a sharpie and a snip. Looked like shit so I did a second cut with the folded paper idea.
I cut about 3". It eliminated the flop at speed and doesn't throw shit straight up either.
Cheers! Lunch is over, back to mowing the lawn...
120 mile smith valley burger loop
Rear bearing started to make a little noise on the way home.
Coffman. Looks like you’re a couple balls short...
Looking at your terrain, what’s your cruising speed? 50-70mph?
I followed your advice, snake, and changed my order to the RST. I’ll post a brief impression once I've had a chance to give it a fair shake.
That led setup kicks ass
40 - 75 most of the time
thanks . baja designs squadron lx pro spot/driving and a baja designs onX 8'' all spot bar the rest is home made
ok, who here has enough knowledge of the venerable XR and it's poorer cousin DR to compare the healight fairing/number plate area. I found this windscreen that is similar to a rally typ escreen, but it's clear, cheaper and won't make me look like a wanker poseur when puttering along on the trails. They make one for everything but the XR, who wants to take a guess as to whether or not it'll fit, with possibly minor modification, on the XR650L before I buy it.
It looks close. They are both plastic and since you are willing to do some modifications I'm sure you could get it mounted... but, I've never been a fan of screens that only mount to the plastic number shield because they "flop" around on bumpy terrain and higher speeds which eventually leads to the failure of at least one of the pieces of plastic. For $80, I think you can find a better option. Just my $.02.
I was thinking of trying to get one that didn't have the mounting holes pre-drilled, then incorporating the headlight mounting bolt into the shield mount, to give it a little more rigidity.
Spent the better part of this afternoon at Steve’s Haus of XR Parts and XR Engine Noob Educatorium. Here are the results, and some things I learned:
If the oil pump spins, it pumps. Grease on the o-rings. Also, Lagunitas IPA is the lubricant of choice, along with Bel-Ray grease!
Yes, you can use a bored out XR600 jug with a 100mm JE piston, just make sure the rings are gapped to .008 and .014 for the top and bottom respectively, and there’s some passage tapping and plugging that will need to be done on the XR650L head. Alternate the ring gaps at 3 and 9 o’clock. Four swipes of engine oil in the cylinder bore after cleaning with lacquer thinner.
Can anyone tell what’s missing in the above photo? Also, remember you should only put one thrust washer on the outside of the middle (21T) starter idler gear.
Getting much closer to making pops and bangs in the project bike I inherited from a friend who bought it in pieces from Steve.
Also, this is my buddy’s SR500 cylinder and the new, matching Wiseco piston that Mike @ Engine Dynamics set up:
The old piston is in the box too - it’s roached after the previous owner dropped the exhaust valve when the top end wasn’t oiling correctly on the bike’s shakedown run after he rebuilt the motor. Common SR issue. That box of stuff, along with a Hoos Racing SR head and cam, a Kedo high flow oil pump and valve rocker oiling kit, and a few hours of flushing out the bottom end to make sure there’s no leftover piston or valve bits, will be a running motorcycle soon. Or soonish.
Thanks as always Steve for a fun afternoon of learning and IPA!!
That would help, but to keep it from moving you'll need a bolt or something that is on a different axis that the headlight mounting bolts. If you can get the sides mounted with the headlight bolts, then another bolt through the number plate would keep it from rotating. It wouldn't take much and depending how low that screen gets to the fender you may be able to make a small brace that braces the screen on the fender.