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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by onaXR, Jan 18, 2006.
Is the caliper frozen?
I'll double check in the morning, but whats a good way to test? Just pull it off and push on the head?
If your brake light is on all the time you may need to adjust the plastic thing that holds the switch that attaches to a spring that attaches to the pedal arm (if you look at the bike, that last sentence will make more sense). On my bike I do not have the bolt you labeled as C, I have a piece that holds the master cylinder to the pedal arm that is kept in place with a cotter pin. If the brake is grabbing but not until the end of the pedals normal travel it also may just need fluid and if it feels spongy you may need to bleed it, but only if air was introduced into the system. If the fluid was low to start with and the pads get worn, some of your situation would happen, the light is a different story though, and are you sure which brake switch is keeping the light on?
Oops. My crank fell out. And for those that follow closely, I put 2 hammers in the picture, just for Steve....
good ol’ Colorado Kool-Aid
I'd get the rear wheel off the ground and see if it turns free. Then apply the brake and see if it releases.
It's treated me good for 20 years, not stopping now!!
All good. Minor adjustment.
After I blew the engine in my '03 XRL (shut up, I already admitted it!), I parted it out and made $800 more than I paid for it selling here and on eBay. And I still have the frame, rear suspension, and both wheels. That money went a long way towards the new '16. Do what @Barron said and you'll be so happy never kicking that big, red pig ever again.
The 650 engine will bolt right in to the 600 frame using the original bolts. It starts to become problematic immediately after that.
The XRL engine runs on DC power, whereas the XL engine runs on AC power. All the electrics are different. Much easier to swap the wiring harness for an XRL harness and associated electrics. i.e. ALL electrical components will need to be XRL, regulator, CDI, anything that plugs into the harness.
The other major issue is of the twin carb setup. If you were to ream out the bolt holes in the XL twin carb head to take the XRL's 9mm head bolts and 10mm locating dowels, the XL head will bolt onto the XRL cylinder jug. No fancy carbs, you will be stuck with the twin carbs due to the position of the XL's rear shock.
You will also need to change the cam timing chain sprocket, due to the XRL timing chain being a lot narrower than the XL version. Actually there are 3 different timing chains. XL600, XR600 and NX650/XR650L.
I have been through all this, I re-powered my '97 XR600 with a NX650 engine, it was a big job, but oh wow, what a result.
My RMG has a twin carb head, and a late model Nikasil XR600 cylinder, I had to do the bolt hole reaming thing, now you wouldn't pick it.
It's a pretty big contract, but for me, the results are worth it. You will just have to work out the pros and cons for yourself vs buying an XRL.
The XRL is not generally available here, there are some available second hand, but pretty scarce.
Parting the whole bike out on ebay is sounding much more attractive, particularly after lookfar's testimony above. What also might be fun/interesting/educational (and profitable maybe) would be to disassemble the engine all the way down and part that out on ebay, instead of selling it assembled, since as Sh0rtlife on the XL600 thread says, no one's necessarily going to believe ir runs. And maybe I can feel good about getting some good condition OEM parts out there for my XL compadres who still are trying to keep their aging XLs humming along.
Yeah, kinda liking the idea of taking that engine apart and setting up my very own ebay parts shop.
I've been wondering why this low mile XR650L I recently picked up seems to consume more oil than my old clapped-out XL600R... I just realized that the previous owner removed the oil separator can.
Since Honda doesn't sell a crate motor for the 650L, if anyone wants to rebuild a motor, used cases are the only way to go. If nothing is damaged, there's a market for a torn-down motor. Since it was oil starved, the internals and top end of my motor were no good but the cases sold relatively easily. Go ahead and take it apart. You'll need a special tool to remove the flywheel retaining nut (unless someone here has a better idea).
Been there! Glad i’m not the only one. I have the can I got on ebay, been meaning to put it on but haven’t had a chance yet.
That still shouldn't make it use a lot of oil. There could be many reasons....that I wont depress you with the details of at the present time.
Where is the hose from the crankcase vented to now? Most times it's still routed to the air filter box. Can you see an oil film(puddle of oil) around/near the hose outlet?
The crankcase vents straight to the bottom vent on the airbox, the top one is capped. It doesn't seem to burn oil, but the airbox always has oil in the bottom, and it's always evident below the airbox on the left side of the frame. Did some gravel roads this weekend and noticed the bottom of the airbox was oily and it was dripping on the exhaust, which caused the realization that there's an oem oil separator missing. Just ordered the missing hoses and a used separator.
edit: I should note that it doesn't use a LOT of oil, just that it's noticeable
In the meantime, look for a piece of garden hose and attach it to the crankcase vent, place the hose high, so no oil can escape. I did that on a chinese motorcycle i used to have, it worked like that for years without issues, lol.
I got my crank back from the shop on Saturday morning and noticed after assembly that my cam gear marks don't quite line up with my head. After 18k miles it looks like my cam chain has stretched a bit. Looks like I get to toss another $100 at this project!!
Wiseco cam chain. EBay...
Is the smog pump & oil separator the same thing? If so, why would the engine consume more oil from removing it?