XRL owners sign in.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by onaXR, Jan 18, 2006.

  1. FlatlandKSBrett

    FlatlandKSBrett Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2014
    Oddometer:
    515
    Location:
    Salina, ks
    Good point. The beer was good as well as the cooked brats and football.

    Does anyone know the service limits on the timing chain? Cam chain, whatever. I've checked my clymers and googled it. No dice.

    My top end has 3k miles on it. And to my surprise it looks like I put it in yesterday.

    Attached Files:

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  2. ricardoguitars

    ricardoguitars Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2018
    Oddometer:
    112
    Location:
    Costa Rica
    3k is barely broken in, mine is 20k and still strong.
  3. Skowinski

    Skowinski opposable thumbs

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    13,248
    Location:
    The Desert
    Yep, mine is at almost 20,000 miles. No oil consumption, running perfectly.

    I'm sure I'll go into the engine in search of more power before it needs refreshing....
    ricardoguitars likes this.
  4. XRLated

    XRLated Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    May 6, 2017
    Oddometer:
    563
    Apologies in advance for cross posting here and the 600 group:

    My orthopedic surgeon says I need to stop being stupid and get rid of my kickstart only xl600r before I blow out my $$$$ knee replacement. Over the past 15 years I've owned the bike, I gotten really good at kicking it over, but it only takes one mistake to do serious damage.

    But I love that bike! So my best ideas so far:

    1) throw money at Steve and beg him to add an e-start to the engine; however I understand that to be expensive and problematic, and, also, it seems a shame to add weight to a light engine in a light bike (relative to an XRL). Does it really make sense to turn an XL600R engine into an XR650L engine?

    2) So then maybe I should sell the XL600R engine, carbs, and exhaust (and wiring harness and other electrics?) and throw cash at Steve and beg him to build me a dream XRL engine that I'll drop into the XL frame along with a pumper carb and freer flowing exhaust. Or maybe sell the XL600R engine, carbs, exhaust, wiring harness and other electrics and try my hand at converting the bike to electric?!

    My 1986 XL600R has about 7-8k miles on it, looks like a 30-year-old dirt bike (lovingly beat up) but always started easy and ran great up until the last time I rode it, which I guess was a year ago.

    My question to you all is what kind of price would I be able to get on ebay for:

    1) Engine?
    2) Dual carbs?
    3) OEM exhaust?
    4) assorted electrics including wire harness?

    And also, if it was your bike, what direction would you go with it, and why?
  5. john.thorp

    john.thorp Titan of Industry Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2012
    Oddometer:
    291
    Location:
    NYC
    I might need to be directed to the specific problems with e-starts on the 600s, but that's what I'd do. A good bike is a good bike, and your bike is your bike. If that money doesn't have to go to a new roof, retirement, kids/grandkids, (there's always a million other things but you get the idea) and you're more or less financially stable, put it on there. Even if it only works 70 percent of the time, that's a lot less kicks.

    How much can the weight really be?
    XRLated likes this.
  6. john.thorp

    john.thorp Titan of Industry Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2012
    Oddometer:
    291
    Location:
    NYC
    Also, thanks for the thoughts and help the other day on the air box and cover. The stud the 1/4 screws go into is still wobbly so its a little tricky, but it went from a 9 on the PITA scale down to like a 3. Didn't have to remove it at all, just had to shove it around to get it to line up better. I....somehow didn't know I could do that.
  7. mrfixit54016

    mrfixit54016 Wisconsin Dual Sporter

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2008
    Oddometer:
    858
    Location:
    Hudson, WI
    XRLated,

    Sell the XL and buy and XRL. Better brakes and better suspension, plus endless parts supply will make you wonder why you kept the XL for so long. I loved my XL600 too, but for a primary fun bike, the XRL has been a terrific upgrade.
    XRLated likes this.
  8. AZ TOM

    AZ TOM Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    6,821
    Location:
    Prescott AZ
    XRLated, buy XR650L. My 2 cents.
    XRLated likes this.
  9. john.thorp

    john.thorp Titan of Industry Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2012
    Oddometer:
    291
    Location:
    NYC
    Ok, whose ready to follow me down a real dumb remedial path?! All of you?! Great!! Grand!

    IMG_8345.JPG

    Noticed my back break was only grabbing if i pushed it hard all the way down to the bottom of its range. This may or may not be related to normal wear, and may or may not be related to a short pavement nap (actually a steel plate construction zone nap if you must know).

    So I threaded that bolt coming out of the master cylinder down (A got bigger, B got smaller), so the break lever arm would actuate the caliper sooner.

    Now I can feel resistance when I press, but it....doesn’t exactly feel right. Still doesn’t seem like it’s grabbing. If I mash on it, my back wheel is really hard to lock up.

    Pads are good. Fluid is good. Clear and no leaks. One weird thing that may not be related is that my break light is always on now. Not sure when that started.

    I swear I checked youtube and my clymer for break adjustments and didn’t see anyone with this exact issue, but have this terrible feeling the answer is literally right in front of men.

    Only other note is that bolt at the green letter C is not holding the arm snug to the master cylinder assembly. I think that’s normal, so your not dragging the break the second you touch the lever, but if i’m honest i’m not sure. I can send a video of the travel if anyone needs to see it.

    Ok thank you
  10. Barron

    Barron M0DAH0LIC Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,314
    Location:
    Yokosuka, Japan
    If it were me, I would sell the 600 and put that money towards a 650l. Then I'd ask Steve to build up the engine, and get the rest of the bike sorted with the engine out of it, keeping in mind he'll probably be done with the engine before the rest of the bike is ready. I'd take a hard look at the suspension and wiring to see what has been done to it and what the condition of it is. Then I would clean and grease every bearing on the bike and pack every electronic connection with dielectric grease. As it was stated above, getting parts for the 650L is usually pretty easy and sometimes very cheap.

    While the bike is apart is also the best time to add any mods, so if there is something you might want to wire in, like a USB port, heated grips, trickle charger port etc., that would be the time to do it.

    As painful as it may be, you'll get the most cash out of your bike if you part it out, as for pricing there are LOTS of variables but the thing working in your favor is that you can say for sure it "ran when it was parked". You might want to get a buddy to start it up for you just to make sure it's good to go now but if it sat for a year it will probably need new gas.

    By the way, I completely understand that you love the bike but if there's a chance that starting it could make you a cripple it might be time to part ways.

    Just my $.02

    -Barron
    XRLated, AZ TOM and buzzword like this.
  11. Thebusdweller

    Thebusdweller Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2012
    Oddometer:
    159
    Location:
    Nevada
    Is the caliper frozen?
  12. john.thorp

    john.thorp Titan of Industry Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2012
    Oddometer:
    291
    Location:
    NYC
    I'll double check in the morning, but whats a good way to test? Just pull it off and push on the head?
  13. Barron

    Barron M0DAH0LIC Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,314
    Location:
    Yokosuka, Japan
    If your brake light is on all the time you may need to adjust the plastic thing that holds the switch that attaches to a spring that attaches to the pedal arm (if you look at the bike, that last sentence will make more sense). On my bike I do not have the bolt you labeled as C, I have a piece that holds the master cylinder to the pedal arm that is kept in place with a cotter pin. If the brake is grabbing but not until the end of the pedals normal travel it also may just need fluid and if it feels spongy you may need to bleed it, but only if air was introduced into the system. If the fluid was low to start with and the pads get worn, some of your situation would happen, the light is a different story though, and are you sure which brake switch is keeping the light on?

    -Barron
  14. FlatlandKSBrett

    FlatlandKSBrett Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2014
    Oddometer:
    515
    Location:
    Salina, ks
    Oops. My crank fell out. And for those that follow closely, I put 2 hammers in the picture, just for Steve....

    Attached Files:

    Barron likes this.
  15. buzzword

    buzzword Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2015
    Oddometer:
    466
    Location:
    SF CA
    good ol’ Colorado Kool-Aid
  16. Thebusdweller

    Thebusdweller Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2012
    Oddometer:
    159
    Location:
    Nevada
    I'd get the rear wheel off the ground and see if it turns free. Then apply the brake and see if it releases.
  17. FlatlandKSBrett

    FlatlandKSBrett Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2014
    Oddometer:
    515
    Location:
    Salina, ks
    It's treated me good for 20 years, not stopping now!!
    buzzword likes this.
  18. freeway crash

    freeway crash Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    May 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    106
    Location:
    Boise, Idaho
    All good. Minor adjustment.
  19. PackinDirt

    PackinDirt Been here awhile Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2014
    Oddometer:
    362
    Location:
    Eastern Vermont
    After I blew the engine in my '03 XRL (shut up, I already admitted it!), I parted it out and made $800 more than I paid for it selling here and on eBay. And I still have the frame, rear suspension, and both wheels. That money went a long way towards the new '16. Do what @Barron said and you'll be so happy never kicking that big, red pig ever again.
    Barron and XRLated like this.
  20. lookfar

    lookfar from the land of OZ Supporter

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,407
    Location:
    D'aguilar
    The 650 engine will bolt right in to the 600 frame using the original bolts. It starts to become problematic immediately after that.
    The XRL engine runs on DC power, whereas the XL engine runs on AC power. All the electrics are different. Much easier to swap the wiring harness for an XRL harness and associated electrics. i.e. ALL electrical components will need to be XRL, regulator, CDI, anything that plugs into the harness.

    The other major issue is of the twin carb setup. If you were to ream out the bolt holes in the XL twin carb head to take the XRL's 9mm head bolts and 10mm locating dowels, the XL head will bolt onto the XRL cylinder jug. No fancy carbs, you will be stuck with the twin carbs due to the position of the XL's rear shock.
    You will also need to change the cam timing chain sprocket, due to the XRL timing chain being a lot narrower than the XL version. Actually there are 3 different timing chains. XL600, XR600 and NX650/XR650L.

    I have been through all this, I re-powered my '97 XR600 with a NX650 engine, it was a big job, but oh wow, what a result.

    My RMG has a twin carb head, and a late model Nikasil XR600 cylinder, I had to do the bolt hole reaming thing, now you wouldn't pick it.

    It's a pretty big contract, but for me, the results are worth it. You will just have to work out the pros and cons for yourself vs buying an XRL.

    The XRL is not generally available here, there are some available second hand, but pretty scarce.

    HTH
    XRLated likes this.