XRL owners sign in.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by onaXR, Jan 18, 2006.

  1. PackinDirt

    PackinDirt Been here awhile Super Supporter

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    Really gotta stop counting the pennies... Try not to think about it as money but more as temporary options.
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  2. FlatlandKSBrett

    FlatlandKSBrett Been here awhile

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    Yep. Done.
  3. XRLated

    XRLated Been here awhile Supporter

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    Completely different. If an OEM parts fiche doesn't answer all questions, ask 'em here, or search "oil separator" in this thread. Lots of discussion and diagrams to delete, reconnect &etc..

    Most folks (not all) say the oil separator is integral, while the smog gear doesn't really affect performance one way or the other, except you get a bit of weight loss in exchange for increased emissions.

    A lot of folks don't like the smog gear leeched onto the side of the engine like a rubber/metal octopus, and it's presence increases difficulty gaining access in order to work on parts of the engine and carbs.

    The oil separator has some of those same clutter issues but to a lesser degree, but decluttering the bike by removing the oil separator means you are dumping oil somewhere outside the engine, not puffing out a few more gasses by deleting the smog stuff.

    Some smog removal instructions may be floating around the web that erroneously includes removing the oil separator, which may be why lots of folks end up with 2nd-hand bikes that lose oil.

    I myself am OEM all around, no complaints except when the octopus gets in the way during maintenance chores.
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  4. AZ TOM

    AZ TOM Long timer Supporter

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    Just my 2 cents I run hose from crank case vent up & over battery box & out back with a small K&N filter on the end? Use no oil & runs well?
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  5. texas123

    texas123 Been here awhile

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    Well then the oil separator would be similar to a PCV, dumping the vapors into the manifold?
    How would removing it cause the engine to consume oil?
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  6. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    By allowing the oil vapor to be discharged directly to the air box instead of being caught and returned to the engine via the separator.

    .
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  7. OUTERLIMITS

    OUTERLIMITS Been here awhile

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    Jul 30, 2006
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    I don't have an XRL, but rather a DRZ and the oil separator is something that does its job well and really doesn't interfere with much except for carb access from the right side and it blocks access to the preload rings on the shock. It's easy to move when you need to for access and then just put back in place. That said, I have seen some oil separators on some bikes that are hideously large and overkill for the job they need to do. The one on the L does not seem too bad to me, but if I was wanting to replace one that was missing, I'd probably go out and buy one of those small cleanable aluminum fuel filters, pull out the filter inside and stuff the coarse foam in it to trap the oil vapor as the stock one does. The key is to locate it upwards of wherever the tubing leaves the engine cases so that oil can drip back in. The end of it you could route back to the stock location in the air box or cap it with a filter on the end as AZTom said. Always best to loop the end of the line back downward so that any water can't get inside and flow downward back to the cases.
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  8. Minidragon

    Minidragon Long timer

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    Thread is on the well side..good..also old members checking in (TJ, Chip).. Missed lots,curious on some older posts.

    Tooo bad..I am thinking to simplify wiring harness(front cowl),you'd be the man to answer that.. Thanks for your contributions.

    Saw a XL6 ad with that huge tank with plenty mods recently.
    Must've been a lot of work,very well done on the L.

    Sounds interesting to me.

    Interested !

    Interested !

    @Pete B and @mrmushman you go buy new L's,a good contribution in right direction for the $aLe.
    Onederer nice resources you bring.
    AZTom cool see some XR vid,quite rare in here.
    Totalpines I look forward to your MX report :thumb.
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  9. bringenufgun

    bringenufgun Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2010
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    845
    Location:
    apparently halfway to motorcycle hell
    seller posted this locally. 2014 XRL with 2500 miles. would trade for Sportster. just happen to have one. bringing it by tomorrow. will update. is it just me or do those bars seem crazy high?
    IMG_3693.jpg 75316056_2736572173070236_8757688906410885120_n (2).jpg 74930267_2736572273070226_3655703886921990144_n (2).jpg
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  10. rimtrail105

    rimtrail105 http://advrider.com/index.php?account/

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    Remembering back to 1992 and was at baja to race over 40 class and thought about Scott Summers xr600r. All this discussion about oil seperators on 650l brought back discussion about his unusual oil seperator can.It was plumbed into the left mag cover and I asked Bruce Ogelvie about that location for a return tube and he said it was to really pull all oil expelled from his so called " xr600r " breather tube to return to bottom end by using suction of rotating magneto . I assumed they had a 628 kit as well as our 600 did also that year. We developed a severe oil leak at high speeds [drain tube vented to atmosphere ] and from small breather mounted at top of breather tube.Evidently team Honda knew about high speed and big bores venting more than a little oil out.Yes we didn't finish that year ,with blown piston ring land at top.Look at youtube;
    1992 XR600R Baja Scott Summers´s 600, for special seperator in video
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  11. coffman300

    coffman300 Long timer

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  12. mbanzi

    mbanzi Been here awhile

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    Screen Shot 2019-11-11 at 6.30.19 PM.png

    Attached Files:

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  13. OUTERLIMITS

    OUTERLIMITS Been here awhile

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    Not sure if the current models are this way, but I had both a 2008 and 2012 Yamaha WR450F and both of them had a breather that came off the top of the valve cover. The hose had a "Y" joint with the higher hose going to a nipple on the air box and the lower hose was routed back to a nipple where the electric start/stator cover was. I always thought that was a slick system as it seemed like the way they did it it dropped the oil over the gears between the e-start motor and the starter clutch. Basically the same as what you are referring to so it could be that the spinning action of the flywheel or starter clutch has an effect of pulling air in. Here you can see it right at about 2 o'clock on top of the starter motor.

    Attached Files:

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  14. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Socially Distant Supporter

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    It seems that the problem has two parts - a) separating the oil from the oil mist that's pumped out of the crankcase and b) getting the separated oil back into the engine so that it can be pumped back into the frame by the oil pump's scavenge side.

    Here's a picture lifted from Perrin illustrating how an air/oil separator works -

    [​IMG]

    Our oil separator probably looks similar inside but the way that it's plumbed appears to be trying to drain the separated oil back down into the crankcase vent, fighting positive pressure pulses from the piston's down stroke. I've been wondering if a return line to the magneto cover with a reed-type pcv valve between the separator air outlet and the air filter might cut down on high RPM oil loss? There's also the question of how to vent the frame if the engine is running negative crankcase pressure since it's currently vented to the engine's top end.
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  15. Onederer

    Onederer Crunch Nugget

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    The earlier XLR series, like the XL600R didn't return the condensate, they had a drain tube that ran to the bottom of the frame.

    Every oil change, there's a small amount of condensate that I drain.


    That condensate is not just oil, it is combustion process by products, or blowby. All engines have blowby, no piston ring makes a perfect seal. That is why the PCV system was developed for automobiles and is still used today. Fresh air is pulled into the crankcase and removed from another point, evacuating the combustion byproducts from the crankcase, so they don't condense and contaminate the oil. The XR650L is doing the best it can with essentially a old school blowby tube with a separator plumbed in.



    Designing an actual crankcase ventilation system, like PCV, which doesn't solely rely on the reversing crankcase pressure to just bounce pulses back and forth through a tube while dribbling out condensate, may be the best modification for blowby control at sustained, high RPM.

    I don't ride at sustained, high RPM (desert race/travel California interstate), and I'm not opening that can of worms.
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  16. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Socially Distant Supporter

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    Guys that race old British singles and 360 degree twins appear to be having success with the Yamaha XS650 reed valve. There's also a guy who uses the BMW crankcase breather reed valve in a custom case to prevent high RPM oil loss in old Brit bikes that are being raced. I'm thinking that there might be potential but things have been kinda' crazy here for the last two years.
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  17. Onederer

    Onederer Crunch Nugget

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    Good info on a reed valve design.

    Some KLR owners have tried an automotive PCV valve. May be a place to look also.



    I've got too many projects to be opening a can of worms on anything. It's enough just trying to get and keep everything back together and running.

    I recently bought a custom mini bike project that I've already spent too much time and money on for what it is. A one-off build though and quite a bit different from anything else I've seen, so it's fun. I've got to get rid of it though and quit keeping all these little projects after I get them going.
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  18. bwalsh

    bwalsh Long timer

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    You think you've got a stretched cam chain...

    [​IMG]

    :augie
  19. baldman1

    baldman1 Long timer

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    A stretched chain is the least of that engines problems.
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  20. zipweee

    zipweee Been here awhile

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