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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by onaXR, Jan 18, 2006.
No reason for the post other then I know everyone likes pictures!
Right, no issues, (with the bike) but I just can not get past the feel of the edge/heel of my boot making contact with the chain/sprocket as I shift around through gears. Besides the gnawing marks on my boots. And even with a cover I have had casual boots with leather laces feed into the gears. Had to have some one come over to my parking spot and use my knife to cut me loose. I could not get off the bike!
Wait really? My foot has always been inches away from the front sprocket. I’ve never even thought of that happening. I always have mx boots on so the laces is never an issue.
What are the opinions of motor upgrades for the XRL here? Hot cam stage one and high compression piston worth it or take away from reliable too much?
I either wear boots with no laces, or the laces are tucked into the boot and held in place with a uniform bootstrap. I've seen the force that motor can produce when I had a chain separate, I also know that it's a LOT harder to break a shoelace than you might think (depending on the laces).
With that being said, I've never had a lace sucked into my motorcycle, but the bicycle is another story, and I learned my lesson. Unless you ride with your pants tucked into boots that have no laces (which I think you do), you're tempting fate not having a cover on the sprocket.
Some safeties may not be necessary, but that cover is one I have to strongly recommend.
My bike is a well-used 1996. It's up on a jack and when I put the stand down (not on the ground) it will move the same as yours, about an inch either way.
Yeah the textile pants I have tuck into the alpinestars boots so there’s zero chance of that happening. I just need to order those bolts. I must not have had them properly tightened, unless those require Hondabond, which I didn’t think they did.
The threads on the top bolt on mine got damaged when my chain parted and killed the OEM one. It's better now, but I thought it was good then until I found out it was loose at about 11 pm on highway 17 on my way to Dahlgren, Virginia from Virginia Beach when the sprocket cover came off and went clanging down the highway. It took me a minute to find it.....
"Clanging down the hiway"........mine is made from plastic, I get no clangs, just plastic click...........lol
People don’t like the hot cam brand around here, but yes a stage one, a high comp piston, a full exhaust, and proper jetting are night and day. after market CDI will also help. then you’ll never be able to ride stock again.
some people also highly recommend the flat slide carbs, but i can’t speak to that personally. pretty fussy to set up i hear. all the other mods are dead simple. drop em in and button it up.
if you’re gonna do the bottom, do the 2nd/5th gear swap while you’re at it. expensive and one of the parts ships from japan but it’s a big quality of life upgrade. the piston, cam, pipe and jetting on the other hand are what i would say is “essential.” but that’s just me.
i could not possibly overstate how significant the difference is. you’ll be making close to 25 percent more horsepower. it’s too much not to notice. it’s also not that expensive or that much work (if you exclude the bottom end). should be around $1000, plus your time and labor.
i would defer to others with more mileage on their bikes (and more engine work experience than me) about the reliability. estimate i heard was that you probably lose 5k miles off the normal engine life your riding style would dictate.
if you’re not hill climbing or wheelieing or WFO slabbing all the time, you should still expect 35k at least. way smarter guys on here than me, so listen for them to chime in.
Another brilliant solution and a nice writeup once again. You da man. I'm curious if you noticed a drop in fuel milage. I have other questions/comments but thought they should be part of that thread so you'll find them there.
I hug the bike with my ankles and knees to become "one" with it. This case was a bit more casual as I was riding street at the time. Dickies construction boots with leather laces. That wasn't the first time. Before, it just severed the lace. But I already knew the dangers. Still, after the last episode, I bought a pair of sidi (actually two pair) scramble boots as a cross-over for street/mild dirt rides. The added benefit is the strong soul as I have 50 years of kickstarting big bore four strokes. BSA's, Triumph's xr600r's have left my instep arthritic and unforgiving. I am always mindful of shoes/boots. Cracks me up how you see harley guys and casual riders with their full protection jackets and gloves and van's shoes on when the shoe is the first thing to depart the body in a get off. The first thing to touch the ground when there's a need for some type of stabilization.
(thumping of yesteryear) Points ignition, a little too advanced... whammo... Your leg is lifted higher than you could ever lift it on your own.
But I've broken my tibula in new gearne SG-12's.
My ankle was stressed and saved, but then a twisting foot snapped my leg bone right inside the boot!
No boot is going to save you from everything, but laces can get sucked into the xr600 easy.
That's why I bought the sidi's and I wear them religiously around town.
You can consider me lucky as I've been known to take chances. Most all my riding buddies have hung up their boots.
I squeeze the frame with the legs as well, I basically clamp myself on so I can be light on the bars. The aloop kit makes a massive difference in how well you can squeeze the bike with your legs.
I guess my foot does get pretty close, I’ve never put my thought into anything getting actually sucked in. Once those bolts come in I’ll have that sprocket cover back on.
a fellow racer has been giving me a lot of tips and techniques and using the bottom of your foot as a lean angle gauge is part of the game. I’ll always be wearing full mx boots, sidi actually makes a specific supermoto boot but it’s only sold in Europe now.
Guy that works for me has been riding motocross for a LONG time, he said the magic is getting everything set up such that you are over the bike at all times such that your arms do pretty much nothing, and that sideways grip of the bike is critical to that.
That’s exactly correct. It makes it much easier to smoothly roll on the throttle as well.
50 mpg. One of the benefits of tuning with an air/fuel meter.
Would like to do this again. Anybody? Make it an all XRL ride?
I would like to join you on that ride,sadly there are just to many miles from Louisiana to Arizona.
Trying to figure out the best way to route the crankcase breather/ separator.
Run a longer hose and vent way back under the rear fender along the subframe? Probably not the answer you want since it looks like your working with the OEM hose but that’s what I’d do if I was weight conscious or needed regular carb access.
Plus less clean up on the frame and other components when it mists out.
@AZ TOM ONE OF THESE DAYS man and I’m serious. I need a year maybe, but I got family in Santa Fe and I’m looking hard at shipping my bike out there for Baja. Be fun to ride while I’m in the nehigborhood. I could learn a lot from you.
ETA, I’m not blowing smoke, I’ve seen that routing on a bunch of old flat trackers recently so it seems to work for them.