I always have to turn the idle up a quarter turn when cold starting, but that’s with the fcr mx carburetor. The 650l is quite cold blooded I’ve found.
That chain didn't stretch it's a tooth off... For the rod just get some 600 wet/dry sand paper and a drop of oil and smooth out the rough spot. New piston time along with a new cam chain. .
Cool cool cool. Easy tasks. Any thoughts on what may have caused it to skip a tooth? It was aligned when I buttoned it up in my 2012 rebuild. The chain had good tension upon disassembly last week, but the tensioners look a bit chewed up. Also I'd appreciate any tips on what wear to look for on clutch components. When I drained the oil prior to disassembly there were a few aluminum slivers in the downtube screen. Not a lot (5 or so), but I hadn't seen any the past few years. I'm wondering if they came from the clutch basket or something. I will be installing a new clutch kit, but would like to address anything in that area while I'm at it. Thank you for the help!
Anyone got guidance on how to pair stainless steel brake lines with 1.5 bar riser and protapers? Is there a different model bike I should plug in to the filters that will link up to OEM calipers? Are the cable diameters and connectors universal (ish)? Or do I have to go bike specific. Thanks in advance
The galfer stainless steel lines I got work great and I have 2.5 inches of handlebar rise. I got them from procycle. They are made for the 650l
The ebc The ebc clutch kits have been bulletproof, the springs are ridiculously stiff though I would use 2 stock springs and 2 of the ebc springs so the pull isn’t so insane.
When I first installed the 4 ebc springs I couldn’t believe how stiff the lever was, seems like overkill to me. The 2 stock and two ebc springs seem like the ticket. You probably recommended that I do that a while ago now that I think about.
Thank you for the tips on a good clutch rebuild setup. Some years ago I replaced the clutch lever setup with one from here to help with my tendonitis on long trips: https://www.righteousstuntmetal.com/collections I got mine some years ago so I'm not sure what 'collection' it aligns to, but it made a huge difference in lightening clutch pull. I remember I did get the XL lever and it is slightly shorter than stock. When I got it I thought there was a good chance it would be not worth the money, but I was wrong. Made a big big difference in comfort on long rides. mcma111 was kind enough to reach out to me last night and he primed me on a few things. I know it has been said before, but what a great guy
Still no dice on the XRL. Checked continuity on the killswitch, all good. Ignitech arrived today, plugged it in but no luck. I suppose the next step is to pull the spark plug and check it out?
got guidance on how to pair stainless steel brake lines with 1.5 bar riser and protapers? Is there a different model bike I should plug in to the filters that will link up to OEM calipers? Are the cable diameters and connectors universal (ish)? Or do I have to go bike specific. Thanks in advance[/QUOTE] Galfer will make you any length you want
Would anyone happen to have a wiring harness for an XRL for sale? Doesn't have to be perfect... Send me an email Bbasso@yahoo.com Thanks!
I don't have one, but was wondering if you just need connectors or maybe the one you have has too many issues? -Barron
If you've never used Timeserts you should look into them. I use them to beef up cylinder base studs in vintage & antique radials. They are the bee's knees.
I'll second that. Easy to install and they feel a lot more solid. I had to use a few of them on my sons engine after he used YouTube as a source for torque specs. -Barron