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y.a.b.a - yet another balkan adventure

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by franken, Sep 16, 2007.

  1. franken

    franken Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
    427
    Location:
    near Munich, Germany
    Hi all,
    after being at the ATIC-Meeting in Tarifa, we joined the second meeting in Handlova in the Fatra montains.

    Here's a overview of our tour first.
    [​IMG]

    And like always here's the gpx.file

    View attachment 134300

    :-) fine, all done yet - so lets start storytelling. :-)

    DAY 1:

    We started on sunday to get some time to prepare our things on saturday. So no hurry - everything was packed well on sunday and we could start without a hurry.

    [​IMG]

    first day is mostly the day you pass the area you know very well. So we did. We went to lake Achensee and on to Zillertal. First small highlight was Gerlos-passroad. Through Mittersil we went on to the Felbertauern-tunnel. We passed it and went on to Lienz.
    [​IMG]

    Next step Spittal and Villach. The we took the Wurzenpass to reach Kranska Gora in Slovenia. Some km later we found a nice small private pension near Bled.

    DAY 2:
    Starting with good weather, first we went to lake Bled.
    [​IMG]

    But we had to hurry. Rain was comming out of the montains. So we made a little race against the rain. Short before Ljubljana we lost. Rain snapped us. So we passed the city quick and tried to escape south. It least until some km before Croatia. With nice warm sun we crossed the border.
    [​IMG]

    Now we took some smaller roads and found a little lake. Heres the view.
    [​IMG]

    The weather direction Rijeka didn't look well so we went more east and found a Ski-Hotel in the Mountains. Quite impressing on such a small road in such a small village.
    [​IMG]

    With a good meal and a little walk we ended this day. Next day will bring some off-road-riding. :-)

    DAY 3:
    At the end of the little village a gravel road starts. The nice lady in the Hotel told us we should follow the mountain-bike signs. So we did, and failed at the first crossing. 2 km we were in a dead end. So go back and try the other one.
    [​IMG]

    Next crossing next wrong move. ;-) who cares. we had fun.
    [​IMG]

    After round 20 km we reached the next road, still we won't go to the sea so we went on to OGULIN. In the middle of the town you can watch a river disappearing in the ground. About 10 km later the river will come back visible.
    [​IMG]

    Next highlight to come Plitvice lakes. Some km before the first Mine-fields are visible near the road. No good area for pissing behind a bush or going off-road.
    At the beginning of the national park
    [​IMG]
    I realized that we are going to loose our clutch. A few km later using the clutch had no effect anymore. We stopped some km later at the crossing to the main-road Zagreb / Split and called for help.
    [​IMG]
    After 2h of phoning with KTM (no help possible), ADAC (German car help) and my dealer and waiting I called ADAC again, asking how long it will take untill they pick us up. They told me that they have no case for me. So I let them open a new one.
    2h later - we are still waiting. Meanwhile we are a perfect tourist-information. All 10 min someone stops and ask us for gas-stations, pensions, national-parks and directions. :-)
    A dutch biker ask if he can help us and italian bikers leave us a bottle of water. (THANK YOU VERY MUCH AGAIN IF YOU READ THIS).
    1h later a small car with a small trailer picks us up.
    We are going to Karlovac. Half the way he stopps. And you know what. I know the house we are stopping. We spent a night there on our tour 5 years ago. The wife still knows us. Unbeliveable!! great. We share a lot of stories and fall asleep late at night.

    to be continued :-)

    have fun
    Andreas + Bettina
    #1
  2. GB

    GB . Administrator Super Moderator Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2002
    Oddometer:
    68,962
    Looks like a great ride and certainly a beautiful place to be on 2 wheels :thumb

    :lurk
    #2
  3. franken

    franken Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
    427
    Location:
    near Munich, Germany
    So, enough of :lurk. Let's go on with the story.

    Day 4:
    Fucking early in the morning they brougt us to Karlovac. Some talks and 1h of work later the clutch was fixed. The mech told us, that he is not sure if the part will make the rest of the travel, but with a little luck ...

    We went on with our tour going south-east. We decide to visit a small national park nearby.
    [​IMG]

    Then we crossed the border to Bosnia. On our way to Bihac we had to pass this beautyful river.
    [​IMG]

    After Bihac we went back to Croatia and Plitvice lakes. Tina didn't feel well and it started to rain. So we made again a little race against thunderstorms. Through flashes we moved south-east. Short before Gracac we found a nice apartement. Some hunters were hanging around. They showed us some cool pics of some bears they meet in the woods.

    DAY 5:
    First we passed some nice hills on our way to Knin.
    [​IMG]

    Knin was touristic, with a nice castle at the hill. For us it was too hot to visit it, so only a pic from the backside.
    [​IMG]

    Next target was KRKA-National park. Through Siritovci we reached the park. A guard stopped us and asked for tickets. He explaint what we can watch all around. So we get some tickets and went for an 1h walk. The guard promissed to watch our bike.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    One liter water later we went on and
    and
    and lost our clutch again. :-(

    Next bigger town was Sibenik. We passed the industrial DC and suddenly Tina saw a big sign of a Mc Donalds restaurant.
    No - A KTM-Dealer. We had luck. :-)
    The boss told us, that we have to wait 5 days, because importer is in holiday. OK, we wait. Then they organized an apartement in the neighbours house for us. We called the ADAC to get something to drive. We get an Volkswagen Polo. :-).

    Next replay will show some pics from our Bikeless-Time.

    Andreas + Bettina.
    #3
  4. franken

    franken Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
    427
    Location:
    near Munich, Germany
    Does this count? it not - remove it. :-)
    So we get a Polo and moved around a lot. On and off-road. :-)

    Pics:
    [​IMG]
    Our Polo
    [​IMG]
    Krka - national park at south-end
    [​IMG]
    waterfalls
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    boat trip on krka
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    canjon near Zadar

    [​IMG]
    Winnetou-movie (germans know well)

    [​IMG]
    near Zadar

    [​IMG]
    on the beach

    [​IMG]
    at night near Sibenik

    [​IMG]
    coast

    [​IMG]
    backland

    [​IMG]
    holy

    [​IMG]
    boat

    [​IMG]
    Pag

    So we watched a lot. And finaly the bike was fixed. :clap

    Next to come - Bosnia - Serbija - Romania - Slovak republik
    Watch out
    have fun
    Andreas + Bettina
    #4
  5. DRglidarn

    DRglidarn Panzer pilot

    Joined:
    May 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    679
    Location:
    Trollhättan, Sweden
    Beautiful places!
    #5
  6. dooby

    dooby aka Frgich; www.lobagola.com Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,493
    Location:
    Europe-Croatia-Zagreb-Lobagola MotoTours
    Oh again great RR from Franken :thumb
    Some aditional info, which may be usefull for someone, hope you don't mind:
    The lake one one of the first pics is called Lokvarsko lake.
    The River you passed on the Road to Bihac is either Korana or Mreznica.
    The canyon which is on a few photos is of a river Cetina. There is great small town of Zadvarje which is a center for outdor activities in these region(trekking, white wattr rafting, canyoning, etc).

    Waiting for more adventure from Andreas & Bettina :clap , keep the pics comming
    #6
  7. franken

    franken Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
    427
    Location:
    near Munich, Germany
    DAY 11:
    :1drink the part arrived. Yep, yep, round 13:00 all has been done and we could go on. Thanks to ADAC Croatia Zagreb and the nice KTM Dealer.
    Lets make some km. (btw, no more problems untill the end).

    We went from Sibenik to Trogir and Split.
    Impressions:
    [​IMG]

    also you may find this
    [​IMG]

    view to Trogir and Split
    [​IMG]

    We started very late this day, so we decide to stay in Croatia, but close to the border. Behind Split we left the coast and went via Cista Provo to Imotski. At the beginning of the town we found a **** Hotel with this parking view.
    [​IMG]

    Tomorrow we will enter Bosnia-Herzegovina.

    DAY12:
    Through the bikeless time it was clear that we will not reach the Black Sea, because we had to meet our ATIC-friends in Slovakia. After breakfast - 5 km later we reached Bosnia. Next stop was Mostar. Still you can see many heavy destroyed houses. We found a guarded parking and went on for a little walk (at 40°C)

    The river
    [​IMG]

    the UNESCO-Bridge
    [​IMG]

    a typical shop
    [​IMG]

    The we went on direction Sarajevo. We followed a nice river and passed Jablanica.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Finally this day we passed Sarajevo and found a small guesthouse some km behind direction Pale. Was fun there, because the two serbs spoke french with us.

    DAY 13:
    Through Pale we went on. After some km we found a small gravel road to Gorazde.

    Typical church
    [​IMG]

    gravel
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Again we followed a very nice river direction Serbija.
    [​IMG]

    Near Vardiste we crossed the border. First stop was in Titovo Uzice. Wow - impressive. Very friendly people everywhere - helping us as good as they can.
    On to Cacak and Kraljevo - a bit boring through the bigger towns. Up to the hills again. We visit an other monastary. Poor Tina - she was not allowed to enter.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    watch out - so many restrictions. :-)

    We followed a beautiful valley direction south to find a hotel. Finally at Baljevac we found one. - Sometimes it's difficult to find a place to sleep in Serbija, sometimes you have to drive a while.

    DAY 14:
    First we visited a small national park incl a ski resort.
    [​IMG]
    the valley we followed so long

    [​IMG]
    the entrance - signs in kyrill

    [​IMG]
    flora

    Also we found some more monastarys during the day between Cuprija and Krepolin.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And finally in the afternoon the rain caught us again. We were looking for a hotel. Asked some people they told us we have to cross the mountain and then where will be one in 40 km. So we did, but none. We asked again at a gas-station. He told us the next will be 40 km left or right - doesn't matter.
    So after some more 40 km we found a nice one. :-) rain had stopped.
    One last pic from this day.
    [​IMG]

    Day 15:
    from Serbija to Romania. Along the river Danube.
    We didn't take the "one point for a country option" and missed Bulgaria.
    We did Petrovac, Krepolin, Zagubica and Maidanpek. When we reached the Danube. Wow - great views there. Fuel was nearly empty when we reached a border-crossing over a dam to Romania.

    [​IMG]
    :freaky

    [​IMG]
    first look

    [​IMG]
    view 1

    [​IMG]
    overview.

    First thing in Romania was refilling the bike and then getting some money. All done we went on to the Carphatian mountains. South of them in Targu Jiu we found a Hotel.

    to be continued
    have fun
    Andreas + Bettina
    #7
  8. franken

    franken Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
    427
    Location:
    near Munich, Germany
    So, let us take you the rest of the story. Here we go.

    DAY 16:
    Romania - Enduromania - what a country.
    Traffic - sometimes nearly no rules. :-) Many dogs near the road, you never know in which direction the dogs will run.
    Roads - the main roads are in good condition. If you leave the main roads you get tarmac with big holes or gravel. When I say big holes - i mean big holes. :-) -- Good for your Enduro.

    We left Tirgu Jiu (Targu Jiu) direction east to pass the carpathian mountains. At Rimnicu Vilcea we turned north. One road later to the north the highest pass road will take place, but the weather was too bad there, so we took a low main road.

    [​IMG]
    south of mountains

    [​IMG]
    north

    [​IMG]
    bad weather in the mountains

    [​IMG]
    end of a smaller road - replace everything

    Before Sibiu we heat east again. Quite boring - a straight road. Nearly no curves. At Fagaras north again. Small road - big holes. In the villages no tarmac. Children waving hands all the time. Chicken, pigs, dogs on the road in the towns.
    Hotel near Sighisoara - some km outside the town. Very quite there. A tourist group from israel had a good chat with us.

    DAY 17:
    Where is the sun? We started in rain. :-(( and it was colder than all the last days. Tina was freezing. :-(
    [​IMG]
    Church in Sighisoara

    Hole day direction north, close to the Ukraine. We didn't go up the mountains. Weather was too bad and too cold.

    [​IMG]
    typical view of the day

    We passed Tirgu Mures and Bistrita.
    [​IMG]
    Bridge

    We reached the hills in the north of Romania. A nice pass road brought us to Viseul de Sus. Here we saw the first tourist since a long time. :-)
    [​IMG]
    top of the pass-road

    [​IMG]
    view

    Some more km down we reached Sighetu Marmatiei. Most Hotels here booked completly - we found one at the end of the town. Personal told us the highlights around we had to visit. :-)

    DAY 18:
    Die happy. :-) first we visited the cementary in Sapinta. Passing the border to Ukraine was not possible. No road. We had to reach Hungary and than go back to Ukraine - we didn't do this.

    [​IMG]
    what a beautyful place

    [​IMG]
    too bad we can't read the stories

    [​IMG]
    the guy who made the most?

    [​IMG]
    good wife, good farmer, good lovers, good hunters and and and

    After some hours at this place we ride on to Satu Mare. Here we visit a KTM shop - the owner is a Dakar rider. Wow.
    When we entered Hungary. Flat in the south. Strong wind came up and it was getting more cold. Late at Tokai the rain grapped us once more. We found a Hotel.
    [​IMG]
    View from Hotel.
    Later at night 3 Bikers from Poland arrived on their way to Romania. They told us they had snow in the Tatry mountains. Let's see what the next day will bring to us.

    DAY 19:
    Cold and wet. Out of Tokai to Miskolc. Heavy wind - difficult to drive. And cold and wet. :-((

    [​IMG]
    behind Tokai

    [​IMG]
    can u see the wind? Can you see how cold it was?

    [​IMG]
    still cold and wet

    We passed the border near Banreve and entered Slovak Republic. On to Lucenec and Zvolen. Finaly we reached Banska Bystrica. A 5* Hotel in the center of the town gave Tina a smile back - I think the more smile came from the dinner later. :-)

    [​IMG]
    In the center.

    Tomorrow we will not ride very much. We only have a few km left to the ATIC-Meeting in Handlova.

    DAY 20 to DAY 24:
    Details see on my webpage www.atic-meeting.org. Choose Meeting-gallery to see the pics. (no login needed).

    [​IMG]

    DAY 23:
    The long way home. 700 km to go. Tomorrow we have to work. First 100 on small roads. Than we took the highway to make some km. We passed Bratislava, Vienna and Salzburg. At Irschenberg we left the highway and 40 min later we reached home.

    [​IMG]
    Lake Mondsee, close to Salzburg

    [​IMG]
    close to home.

    So friends - that's it.
    Hope you enjoyed our report. Feel free to ask us whateveruwanttoknow.

    Have fun

    Andreas + Bettina
    #8
    max.flemstrom likes this.
  9. SpitfireTriple

    SpitfireTriple Seek Truth

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2008
    Oddometer:
    876
    Location:
    Bristol, Britain
    You see some weird (and beautiful) things on ADVrider. (That's one of the reasons I browse here). These gravestones in Sapinta are one of the weirdest. And beautiful.
    #9
  10. Russtic

    Russtic Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 27, 2015
    Oddometer:
    122
    Location:
    rural backwater
    Hi Very interesting ride report, might want to build in some of your route for a forthcoming trip, but the link to the gpx file not working?
    #10