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Yamaha Riva 180 Repair & maintenance information

Discussion in 'Battle Scooters' started by Kevinforesthill, Oct 15, 2018.

  1. Zee Rex

    Zee Rex n00b

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    I've seen a few people having issues with putting the air box on the carburetor. I did too. I also noticed the big end was soft and pliable while the other end was hard as a rock. I heated it up in hot water and stretched it over a piece of PVC pipe which made it a few millimetres larger. Then did it again, stretching it over a large socket. Once it cooled, it held its shape and slid right on the carb.
    Kevinforesthill likes this.
  2. Wentwest

    Wentwest How's that work?

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    I have found that heat is my friend when ever I deal with plastic parts and with old stiff vacuum lines and gas lines. A good warming will make your life much easier.
  3. Grayirwin

    Grayirwin n00b

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    Hey all, glad to see this thread is still active! The homemade sliders from the p/o on my 180 finally started acting up, after about 6k miles. Just ordered the dr pulley 17x12 sliders, thanks for that info! Any idea where to find the U shaped bushings that guide the plate into the bell? Mine were also homemade and are destroyed 13AB2595-9E95-4637-AC0E-5E2C0BFD62B2.jpeg AC0BC424-C19E-452C-B6D9-C11EEC89BEFD.jpeg
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  4. Kevinforesthill

    Kevinforesthill Been here awhile

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    Foresthill, CA

    Not sure about the u shaped parts. I know there are a lot of variator kits out there that usually include them but i have never tried to use them.

    you will like the sliders, i know i sure do.
  5. Grayirwin

    Grayirwin n00b

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    Interesting, I’ll do some measuring and see what I can come up with. For the last year or so my scooter has topped out at 50, hoping this will get it back to 65ish, which is what it did when I first got it
  6. Juvenile Senior

    Juvenile Senior Been here awhile

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    Nov 17, 2019
    Oddometer:
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    Germany
    Your rollers do look like a mess, totally flattened out. The Dr.'s are definitely going to do you good. Actually, considering the state of your rollers anything round would do you good :rofl
    Sorry I can' t help with the guides.
    How many miles have you got on your scooter already?

    This is what I found in my variator when opened in last April. Since I wasn"t happy with the effect of the 17x12 rollers I put in, I eventually returned the original 18x12s, although they are not very good.
    In the third photo you can see how 17mm compares to 18mm when installed. The difference is signifficant. I may buy the Dr.'s in the future, but I could not decide for the weight yet
    IMG_20200412_190043.jpg IMG_20200412_194106.jpg IMG_20200418_131342.jpg IMG_20200418_140144.jpg
    Kevinforesthill likes this.
  7. Grayirwin

    Grayirwin n00b

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    Yeah I’m sure they’ll work better than the ones I have!
    It has just over 20,000 miles.
    The ones in mine were made out of round nylon stock, and pretty much turned to dust. However, and can’t complain because they lasted for quite a while.
    What issues did you have with the 17x12s?
    Kevinforesthill likes this.
  8. Kevinforesthill

    Kevinforesthill Been here awhile

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    So the problem with using the 17x12 roller/sliders instead of the OEM 17.5x12 size is that the variator cover ring, for whatever reason, will come into contact with the case and slightly eat into the case as shown in the below picture . I have been running 17x12 roller/sliders for probably 2 years now and the amount that it has eaten away is still so small that i can not get a ledge with my thumb nail so i don't worry about it (picture below is after 2 years of 17x12 roller/sliders), but it does come in contact with the case and that could potentially be a problem.

    FYI - I post most of my roller/slider experiments and misc information back on page #1 and carb swap information on page #30. If you are looking for a little extra out of your Riva, with less starting problems....i suggest the carb swap, i know i love it more now after the carb swap and i was actually a big defender of the OEM carb.

    [​IMG]
  9. Grayirwin

    Grayirwin n00b

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    Interesting, how many miles have you put on it like that? Can you hear it grinding or not really?
  10. Kevinforesthill

    Kevinforesthill Been here awhile

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    not sure how many miles, but probably somewhere around 1000 miles. I have not noticed any sound coming from it, and i don't think it is eating away anymore of the case since i have checked it many times over the last few months and it hasn't gotten any worse but i also haven't tried anything to double check to see if it is. I could probably mark it with a sharpie to see if it rubs it off but haven't as i don't think it is getting any worse.
  11. Wentwest

    Wentwest How's that work?

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    Maybe the smaller diameter rollers let the moving plate settle just a tad deeper into the variator so the body of the variator just touches the crankcase. The clearance must have been compromised somehow. If you were going to continue riding with them a thin spacer washer between the plate and the bearing might help.
    Kevinforesthill likes this.
  12. Kevinforesthill

    Kevinforesthill Been here awhile

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    I honestly don't know why it comes in contact. Logically, i would think the variator would open less with a smaller roller, not more....and we are talking about only half a millimeter difference in roller size, so i am still surprised it comes into contact at all. Even stranger to me is that it is the ring that comes in contact and not the cover screws which protrude much more than the ring does, but it is probably due to the shape of the case which tapers away from the crank shaft. A thin spacer would probably keep it from coming into contact, but i honestly do not think mine is contact anymore, i think it ate away all that it is going to eat. Might be a good idea if someone is going to 17x12 roller from the OEM and was worried about it, but at the same time getting that crank shaft nut on might be a PITA with a spacer since you can barely grab the teeth as it is and i have no clue if a spacer would cause other unforeseen problems. I probably should do something like a sharpie test to see if it is still in contact with the case, but i just haven't been that worried about it. It is so shallow that i can not feel it with my thumb nail, so its not something i have been concerned over.
    Wentwest likes this.
  13. Wentwest

    Wentwest How's that work?

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    It will open less, and it will close more. Either way even though it's only .5 millimeters, at some moment it was touching just a tiny bit. It's mostly theorizing, but that's sometimes more fun than taking it apart AGAIN. And a lot more fun than me having to take it apart again.
    Kevinforesthill likes this.
  14. rileyxo85

    rileyxo85 Adventurer

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    Jun 1, 2019
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    is there an easy way to drain the carb bowl without having to take apart the sides?
    Kevinforesthill likes this.
  15. Kevinforesthill

    Kevinforesthill Been here awhile

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    There is a bowl drain screw but getting to it is not easy because it is on the side of the bottom of the carb. Probably easiest to get to it through the front cover, you may have to remove the fan but its probably the best way to get to it. I find i can do almost anything through the front cover or through the gas tank area once the tank is removed.

    If you do the carb swap (page 31) it is way easier to get to because the carb is much shorter and easier to access without everything else in the way.


    OEM air box and misc all taken off and i don't really plan on putting it back on. So if anyone is looking HMU (Sorry Carb sold)
  16. Kevinforesthill

    Kevinforesthill Been here awhile

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    Hey sanjoh,

    Did you mount a h4 headlight in yours? The plug fits great and works but it doesn't sit right and the bulb wants to fall through.
  17. sanjoh

    sanjoh Purveyor of Light

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    I did, it was a custom job where I modified the original bulb base to fit a h4 led. The led works great with the stock headlight reflector. The bike really needed the freed up watts.
    Kevinforesthill likes this.
  18. Kevinforesthill

    Kevinforesthill Been here awhile

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    Did you de-solder the old bulb ring off? With like a propane torch? I tried to swap mine over to a led H4 yesterday and was having no luck at all. Any chance you have a pic? I thought you had a web link showing what you did but I couldn't find anything when I looked
  19. sanjoh

    sanjoh Purveyor of Light

    Joined:
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    hladapter.jpg
    The piece on the left was the h4 adapter for the led, I cut of the 3 tabs and turned the part on my lathe to match the id of the piece on the right. The piece on the right is what remains after I broke the bulb and pulled all the insides out with some pliers.

    rivaHL2.jpg
    The h4 mounted on the riva base. I moved the h4 around while holding the headlight to find a good beam pattern then epoxied the white piece inside the old light base.

    rivaled2.jpg

    Yes, it's like the sun! Just what I need while riding at night in the sticks. I also have a single amber auxiliary light on in this pic.
    Kevinforesthill likes this.
  20. Kevinforesthill

    Kevinforesthill Been here awhile

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    Very nice, i will give it a try later tonight after work. Thank you