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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by BDG, Jul 17, 2019.
Those are just ads for dealers, none of those bikes are actually available at this moment
I have called a few dealers and some of them don't even have a demo bike.
The one I tested today he bought himself to have a demo and said he has 8 or 9 bikes on order.
Season is almost over here so I'm not bothered as I don't plan on riding in the winter anymore.
The bike is very very good.
Bring on January :)
Going back to spring rate. We are currently on a trip, two up loaded. The panniers total weight is probably under 20 Kgs and the preload is on max. So stiffer rear spring required.
Trick is to find spring that’s stiff enough for 2 up/luggage but still soft enough for rider/no luggage. Really glad bike comes with pre load knob. Sometimes it takes a couple of tries but springs are not to expensive. Enjoy the trip!
The hydraulic PA on the T7 has 10mm of travel, which, based on the standard spring weight, can allow adjustment for up to approx 70-80kgs of extra preload.
Like you say, the bike needs the correct spring for rider only, low fuel, then everything else is plus.
We are nearly finished our bike to offer a range of heavier, linear-wound springs, and a selection of shims, so that owners can dial in exactly the correct weight of preload to get maximum use from the PA.
So on short, your suspension won’t work for me.
Not sure what you mean?
If the range of the preload adjustment is 70-80 kgs. I use the bike one up, two up and as at the moment two up traveling. So a conventional shock adjustment screw will give me more range of adjustment than the hydraulic preload type.
just get a spring for 2 up
Not necessarily, when you change to a stiffer spring then you automatically increase the range of adjustment probably up to 90 to 100 kg,
You are correct that generally a threaded colour will give more preload adjustment range than the hydraulic version, but the threaded colour is more difficult to adjust preload with, whereas the hydraulic version is just a few minutes turning of the handle, much easier to do before you leave for a ride
Your right, a hydraulic preload adjuster is easier. At the moment the biggest concern is although the bike isn’t heavily loaded the stability two up loaded is questionable. Lots of head shaking and in the wet the front ABS is very easy to activate unless you gradually applied the brake to transfer weight on to the front.
I don’t think Mr Yamaha had two up travel in mind when they built this bike.
max load is 188kg, that is not much so traveling with pillion = stiffer spring
Check your PM's Chalk
Chalk you could move the fork tubes up in the triple clamps to get some geometry back. It would help with the light front end. Try 20 or 25mm see how it feels.
Forgive the intrusion, but is there some recommended reading on this topic? How does one determine how many mm of change equates to changing in kg load range.
Also, when you say 70-80 "extra" do you mean moving the range up from the baseline to that range, or adding that much to the baseline? The later seems like a *lot* of change for very little adjustment so I am thinking the former.
So yeah, any recommended reading on this? The "how to" videos are fun and all, but I'd like to get a little deeper understanding.
It is a spring.. displacement*rate = force
about 7-8kg (or about 70-80N if you want to use a force unit) per mm is the kind of spring rate that is found on this kind of bikes for the shock.
So 10mm of adjustment range => 70-80kg.
Note these 10mm are directly on the shock.. due to how it is connected to the linkage/swingarm the corresponding wheel travel is always higher (about 2-3x ?)
Some people need to study what mcmann posted. There are many articles all over the net about suspension.
(There is some questionable advice on this thread.)
I’m not sure if dropping the forks through the yokes would help. One thing I’m going to check when we get home is the front wheel balance, sometimes the simplest things get overlooked. I know it won’t help the braking but it might be the cause of the wobble through the bars.
One thing I have noticed which supports my thoughts about the lack of weight on the front wheel is
The front tyre still has the nipple marks from the mould visible in the centre after 2000 miles !
Where did you get this info from please.