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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by BDG, Jul 17, 2019.
Will it be available in Europe? And how much it would cost? Thank you!
This headache thingy remembers me a little when the RN32 R1 came out and everybody tried to adapt their experiences from former suspensions. But this did not work. Either the front fork was hydraulically stiff and the rear damper spring looked far to soft on the paper.
This said, it resulted in that every good suspension adjustment had to be done on the road. Static measuring, pushing and feeling leaded to wrong or bad results.
What did Tractive Suspension tell you about the built of the front fork? Is it a KYB mixture of a closed cartridge and big piston fork? What was the amount of oil compared to other similar sized front forks? Did they tell you something about the used oil, maybe such as comparable with a rear damper oil and very temperature stable? What is the bottoming height, measured above the axle clamp?
This listed may result in a hydraulically stiff fork, but this will not mean, that the fork feels over spung.
However, we (when riding two up) or me (when solo) are very satisfied with the suspension for the moment. All adjustable parameters were checked and set to standard according the manual. After that all parameters were opened some klicks more to achieve an increased comfort and to reduce the stiff feel.
We did not adjust the sag following it like a confession of faith. A track bike would have close to no sag, if I use it only there. So it depends all to the routes you drive and for sure, it depends to your riding style. That is the reason, why not to waste too much time in adjusting the sag and to meet exactly every demanded millimeter. Our new Tenere 700 has a certain sag, which is enough to keep the wheel on bad back roads and fast green laning. This is our adventure riding, but this adventure riding can be different from person to person.
When it comes to tricky routes close to a trial trail, I would even prefer a over spung or underdamped suspension to receive a more spongy ride. However, there can be not only one suspension set-up, because the route can change every minute. It is up to find a good all day compromise. That is what we have for the moment with the OEM suspension. And when we ride two up, we just add some clicks to the hydraulic preload of the rear damper, that's it.
I just had news that my bike is being shipped from France tomorrow so with a bit of luck I may get it next week (where's the 'fingers crossed emoji)
Any suspension setup starts with sag, with the intended load on the bike. If you can't get sag right, you can never get to an optimal suspension setup.
At least that has been my experience.
Here is my 2 cents about suspension!
I now covered about 2000km on the T7.
My weight without gear – 76kg or 168lbs.
I’m riding without pillion and mostly offroad – from gravel to real offroad – sand, hard endure tracks with big woops, fast wood roads etc. So I’m interested only in real offroad suspension performance, but I don’t care how they perform on asphalt.
When I’m riding without luggage, I’m somewhat happy with suspension performance in offroad. But with some compromises. I set it very soft – about 4 clicks from softest (compression, rebound, front and rear), preload ~ 8 from softest.
But month ago, I went for a short 2-day offroad trip with luggage (about 20kg) and was somewhat disappointed...
My findings – if I want to ride hard in offroad with luggage, then I have to turn rear shock’s preload almost to the max, so the bike doesn’t bottom out. But as you guessed, it ruins bike geometry and I had big problems (and a crash) in sandy tracks, especially when sand was rutted. But keep in mind – I’m my weight is on the lower side. So if you are heavier than me, than problems start to get even bigger…
When I’m ridding without luggage, then the problem still exists, but not so much.
So I tend to agree to Mitch, that rear shock is set for very light rider and if you are on the heavy side or riding with luggage/pillion than you will not able to find optimal (and safe) suspension settings...
Front forks – they are big mystery for me. I set them very softly – the same as rear shock. And I regularly find limits and bottom out rear shock, but never the forks. I think that suspension are not correctly balanced…
But I’m very picky when it comes to suspension. I’m coming from KTM 990 Adventure and suspension offroad performance is very important piece on the bike for me!
So I’m afraid that I will have to invest in aftermarket suspension… So I can ride safe!
Mitch – I would be interested in suspension with a little bit more travel! Say +20mm. Is it possible?
Good assessment of the suspension. Have you put a zip tie on your fork sanction to see how much travel your using on the front?You and I are same weight so good information for me. You’re not the first person to mention the suspension felt unbalanced front to rear.
I still not understand why you guys are talking about aftermarket/suspension changes when it doesn't suit to you.
There is lot of wizzard who makes suspension transformations their job, and it's still a lot more efficient to let them tune it like you want it to be, than to put an random other brand of suspension that will still not be settle for you/your riding style.
I'm around your weight and I found the suspension not plush enough in bumps /rocks so I set the compression 4 clicks softer front and back and it is very noticeable.
I read that you set your compression and rebound softer. Did you know that a softer rebound means less dampening aka faster rebound? Your rebound might be too quick and It's unsettling the bike.
Let the suspension gurus chime in and say what they think about it.
You can't fix problems if you do not understand them. And you can't have someone fix them for you if you can't explain what the problem is or what you want the bike to do/not do...
First picture shows how much fork travel is being used under emergency stoping, both with and without ABS.
The second picture shows how much travel is being used in normal riding, a mixture of 100 miles of fast A roads and very bumpy minor roads.
Some asked for Tenere comparison with KTM 990 Adventure. So here is my opinion!
Love that review sandijss
So stoked to get this bike.
Half of the problems will desapear when it will be settle to your weight.
Other half will be when you will talk about them to your use/riding style/problems. Hopefully they know how to translate average people feeling. You don't have to be a professionnal rider to be understandable, even if you don't have the good vocabulary you still can explain your feeling
Btw if you don't understand your problems on the stock suspension wich already have a "factory" settle, I can't imagine how you will on an aftermarket one that you have to settle from nothing
If you're bellow 70kg then you can set it to your weight for offroad! If above or your are riding with pillion or luggage, than you will have to make compromises!
Now, here at Rally Raid Products, we have commenced production of parts to enhance and improve the YAMAHA T7 Tenere, there is a dedicated thread in Vendors, to announce any new products, and give detail descriptions of our developments to the bike.
Rally Raid Products YAMAHA T7 Vendors Thread link
This is how the stock DR650 shock behaves, with almost no rebound damping. The back end often absorbs moderate hits OK with adequate compression damping and spring, but then bounces with a vengeance because nothing damps the rebound. It can send a rider over the bars.
Just checking the bike over and found 7 loose rear wheel spokes and a couple in the front.
Before people start, it’s not a criticism of the bike just a reminder to owners to check them.
Hey Chalk, how many miles have you got on the T7 so far? Just curious...
I find pretty much all jap bikes lack much rebound. Have been thrue 9 yz 250,s 3 cr250,s and tried a couple kaws. All needed help on rebound on the shock.Thinking the japs test them at high speed on little bumps to set them up for the buyer.The lower bikes like a dr most likely suffer even more.