Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

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    Hello Mr. Steiger,
    I have been very pleased with this tire in mud, sand dunes, roots and rocks. It's killer app however is steep and loose hillclimbs. There is no offroad surface that this tire doesn't best the D606. On pavement, their roughly equal, both lean over & grip well. Like the D606, it's a bit noisy between 45-55 mph, but above 55 gets significantly quieter. Lifespan on pavement favors the D606 by about 30%, but the Tractionator IT lasts better than the D606 offroad (I'm thinking because it grips better, much less wheelspin)

    I'm currently at about 3300 kilometers (2000 miles +/-) and have 40% tread remaining. My riding is 75% off pavement, 25% on.

    When I bought the Motoz Enduro IT, the only size in stock was a 130/90/18. Larger than the 120's I usually run, but there have been no ill effects. No noticeable difference in power. Bike is a stock 2014 with 14x52 sprockets
    Dirtleg, ACR, mk23 and 1 other person like this.
  2. Janus9

    Janus9 Been here awhile

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    For those of you that have lowered the rear with just the stock shock clevis adjustment, did you also lower the front by raising the forks or just keep it stock?

    Has anyone here played with the front height to see how it changes the handling of the bike?

    I am thinking about lowering the rear with the stock clevis and wondering what I should do for the front.
  3. rsteiger

    rsteiger Bob Supporter

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    I have not done this to my WRR but I rode a friend's WRR who maxed out the rear but kept the forks in the stock position.

    The bike changed directions pretty quick with that setup but it also was prone to head shaking on the highway at highway speeds. Depending on how much you drop the rear my guess would be the bike would be less prone to headshake at HW speeds but may tend to push the front in the turns.

    Best thing to do is first set your sag and then I would drop the rear and ride the bike to see what you think. If you want to increase how fast it turns then raise the forks in the triples a little bit. Don't be afraid to play around with it until you find something you like.
    Bitingdog likes this.
  4. kawagumby

    kawagumby Long timer

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    Thanks, but none of that. I ran smaller tires on the 08 - air filters not dirty on either. I'm thinking BluePill nailed it. The two engines have obvious performance differences without mods.
  5. BluePill

    BluePill AARP Slacker

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    When I picked up my 2008 new, the dealer had pushed up the front forks and left the rear at stock height. Talk about unstable and skitterish! My first adjustment was to lower the rear to the maximum. Handling was way better, but unstable in cross winds at Interstate speeds. Then I reset the forks to level at the triple clamp, and the highway manners got better. That is what I now have both of my WR's set at.

    If I were to be doing extended slow single track with no highway, I would push the fork tubes back up for faster steering. As already said, both adjustments are fast and easy, so trying the different combos are the way to go.
    rsteiger likes this.
  6. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    I finally edited some video from July, this is day 1 of 4 on the PA section of the MABDR. Pittsburgh to Maryland.

    The is what the WR250R is all about!

    DirtDad, speedtrials, FLICKIT and 5 others like this.
  7. Saso

    Saso Happily sporting the DRD4 gene Supporter

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    Awesome vid Yinzer!

    Did a little roaming in the Swell last weekend.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
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  8. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Heya Janus9

    I am longetudinally challenged so have done front and rear, I also machined 5 mm off the clevis as there is tonnes of meat there (was done by someone else on here too)

    With my setout it is stable at speed but still turns in mint, as these wee girls are tight on the geometry they are nimble anyway, on reading what a lot have done here is lower the rear a little more than the front which does help reducing head shake.

    If you want any measures or pics lemme know and I will swing up some info.
  9. JimTid

    JimTid n00b

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    I bought the plastic one from Moose. I like the way it fits. It slides over rocks better than aluminum. I have not noticed any increased noise. Keep what you have and spend the money on other goodies.
  10. ACR

    ACR 52,015

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    Also a mounted a plastic moose skid plate, it’s taken some good hits and have yet to puncture it. My friend put a hole in his moose, but he was also fully loaded and landed on a rock shaped like a pyramid. No damage to the bike, although we both thought there would be carnage to the frame.

    Would purchase again.

    [​IMG]
    Proud Highway and wwguy like this.
  11. FLICKIT

    FLICKIT Long timer

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    Great video ty... What was the story with the broken chain? ...
    Bitingdog likes this.
  12. Janus9

    Janus9 Been here awhile

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    Thanks,

    Never thought about machining 5mm off the clevis. That is a good idea if the part is still structurally sound.

    I am going to lower it in the back with the stock adjustment and then play with the front some and see how I like it.

    Probably should get a seat concepts low seat too.
  13. Yinzer Moto

    Yinzer Moto aka: trailer Rails Supporter

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    Just a failed master link, nothing serious.
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  14. wwguy

    wwguy Been here awhile

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    The plastic Moose skid plates are made by AXP Racing in France, who also sells their own version for the WRR. Sure, they get some scratches in them when dragging over rocks, but in general they're bomber-tough and provide great protection from both bashing impact and skidding abrasion. I've run an AXP 8mm plastic skidplate on my Beta 300 two-stroke for 1200+ miles of rocky Idaho mountain and high desert singletrack this year and haven't been at all nice to it. After destroying a carbon fiber skid plate last year I've been amazed at how durable the plastic plate is. TM Designworks makes a similar product for MX and enduro bikes that also gets rave reviews from riders. Unfortunately, despite several attempts, I haven't been able to convince TMD to build one for the WRR.

    I've been running a Flatlands aluminum skidplate on my WRR for several years and have had a love/hate relationship with it from the start. I love the protection but hate the noise it creates or amplifies from the engine while riding. Like many others I've wasted way too many hours tinkering with foam and sound deadening materials to reduce the noise. But everything is still a workaround and my bike has always sounded better without it. If I had it to do over again (and I may just do that) I'd go with the Moose or AXP skidplate on my WRR in a heartbeat.

    Another thing I don't like about aluminum is that it doesn't return to original shape after bending under impact:
    [​IMG]

    Here's the 8mm AXP plate under my Beta. (The Moose and AXP plates for WRR are 6mm):
    [​IMG]

    I'm not at all gentle with it:
    [​IMG]
  15. rubberband

    rubberband Will ride for tacos

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    Eastern KAT... just outside Matewan, WV

    IMG_0024.JPG
  16. AdvNener

    AdvNener Been here awhile

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    I'm happy with the 6mm AXP bashplate on the wrr. I saw a friend 701 with the AXP 8mm (that also covers the linkage) and it looks really really strong and protective, i see why @wwguy likes it on the beta.
    woofer2609 and wwguy like this.
  17. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Heya Janus9, yeah it is an easy job to do the clevis in a mill, somewhere on here an inmate did it thus I did the same, 5mm off the clevis will give you 10mm at the wheel.

    The Devol lowering link is better than dogbones too if you want/need to go that way. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEVOL-LO...Fits-Yamaha-WR250R-WR250X-Fixed-/232464392059

    I took 40mm out of my seat as well, put a 10mm soft top back in it so a 30mm lowering overall in the seat, works very well.

    I my next life I am coming back with longer legs :D
  18. ACR

    ACR 52,015

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    Pictures like this remind me to get down there one day, you know, to confirm how incredibly boring the terrain and roads are said to be.

    Looks like a trail on the other side of the valley, does it keep going into those distant hills?
  19. woofer2609

    woofer2609 Less flow, more Gnar

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    46470027_10156672858290540_215855946671325184_n.jpg
    What trails were you riding? What are some good intermediate trails that you make into a loop? I need to get to Squamish more for dirtbiking, but all my friends in Vancouver mountainbike, so 99% of the time I'm pedalling, which is fine with me.
    I just explored the Disneyland trials motorcycle trail up behind Brittania Beach. Extremely technical riding that is an uptrack for trials bikes, downtrack for mountainbikes.
  20. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

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    Hey Woof, I found this trail at Cat Lake. I was just puttering around and exploring. There's lots of great stuff up there. I find new trails almost every time I go exploring there :-)
    Yinzer Moto likes this.