Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. Tiger993

    Tiger993 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2014
    Oddometer:
    743
    Location:
    St. Michael, MN
    Nothing done with lights on the WRR other than I swapped out the OEM halogen bulb with a PIAA Xtreme halogen. The Baja Designs lights are on a different bike. I only mention them as a possible aux light you could consider for the WRR, although I haven't done that myself.
  2. Border411

    Border411 Been here awhile

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    Sep 24, 2017
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    450
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    Northern Virginia
    Sorry....I don't remember. Just happened to search for a generic one that stated it had a ball bearing in it.
    NJ-Bill likes this.
  3. woofer2609

    woofer2609 Less flow, more Gnar

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,163
    Location:
    Extreme Pacific SouthWest (of Canada)
    IIRC, the WR has a 350W stator. All the bike lights and elec(tron)ics use about 100W. The rest is lost as heat unless used.
    Tiger993 and Bitingdog like this.
  4. 1ggy

    1ggy Wage Slave

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2014
    Oddometer:
    42
    Location:
    PCB
    Just finished setting up my Reckless 40 on my WR. I still have the stock muffler and heat shield. Does this make the mosko moto heat shield unnecessary or do I need to jam it up underneath?
  5. drifteast

    drifteast Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2014
    Oddometer:
    132
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON
    I don't have the Reckless 40 but for my Reckless 10, I used the Mosko heat shield as well; I didn't want to take any chances on melting anything and the Mosko shield puts a little more distance between the muffler and the bag. I'll also say that the hose clamps I used have scratched and crunched the stock shield but it's still worth the peace of mind for me. Anyway, congrats! Mosko makes some awesome gear, I love my 10!
  6. ccogg

    ccogg Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 9, 2020
    Oddometer:
    22
    Location:
    OR
    I have the 40 on my WR. I taped some small scraps of leather over the bolt heads on the stock shield and rode it HARD. (Without the mosko shield.) No problems. Covering the bolt heads was probably unnecessary, but I thought someone had mentioned doing it. V2 I think.
  7. ProLeisure

    ProLeisure Gimme shelter... Supporter

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2013
    Oddometer:
    601
    Location:
    Truckee, CA
    For reference I’ve used the below solution on my WR with the Reckless 40, Reckless 80 and the Giant Loop Mojavi bags for years without issue.

    I used the Mosko Moto heat shield on my WR for a season, but to be honest I never liked how the bags didn't sit evenly on the bike, especially the Mojavi bags. I picked up some heat reflective tape, taped the inside of the stock heat shield with it, 2 layers if I remember correctly, and it’s been fine, no issues whatsoever. I'd recommend putting tape in and over the screw holes as well because those screws can get really hot. For the screw holes I got a water bottle cap, used the water bottle cap as template and then placed the tape face down towards the screw. I then covered the screw hole with a small piece of the tape.

    The tape I used was this or similar to it.
    Bitingdog likes this.
  8. AUstate

    AUstate Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2014
    Oddometer:
    160
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA

    I have 2 WRs, both with the cyclops. 1 the normal and the other the "Ultra". They are both super bright and a easy no fuss upgrade .

    https://soloracer.com/wrrledbulb.html
    rubberband likes this.
  9. Nutsbolts

    Nutsbolts Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2019
    Oddometer:
    51
    Location:
    New Zealand
    I have just had the shock done on my WR, was going to go with Racetech but decided to take it to a local shop, have to say the result is amazing, it will take the big hits with ease but also feels plush on the small stuff. So to anyone sitting on the fence about revalving the shock I would say do it. An easy pull clutch, G2 throttle lower gearing and now the shock revalve would be the 4 mods that for me have transformed the bike.
  10. PlowHand

    PlowHand Ancient, ugly and happy :-)

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2015
    Oddometer:
    1,758
    Location:
    North-Central-Indiana
    Revalved boingers are something I plan on doing one day. Another top tip is… A mod I did a few months ago was to put 14-49 sprockets on my WRR. Before doing that I was constantly switching out my two swing arm sliders and filling the groves with JB Weld to keep the chain from cutting into the swing arm. I haven’t had much wear on the slider at all since this upgrade. I highly recommend this. It completely resolved the issue for me.
    woofer2609 and Bitingdog like this.
  11. coresports

    coresports DS4Life

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2011
    Oddometer:
    90
    Location:
    USA
    I'm on the fence. 100% bone stock 2008 WRR original owner here. I have experienced coming in hot to some woops and almost going over the bars once or twice but I also use my WRR as a true dualsport (2 sets of wheels, full dirt/street). I wouldn't mind an objective opinion on the street manners of a revalve. My stock WRR is super stable on the road at speed and I don't want to give up anything here. I concede offroad will be better. Just a fantastic motorcycle either way tho. Pic from a few days ago.

    IMG_20211019_172901765.jpg

  12. NJ-Bill

    NJ-Bill Life is good Supporter

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2005
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    08003
    I had my suspension done by Racetech on my 2nd WRR. The rebound dampening on the rear shock is the big problem in the dirt. I did not notice any difference on the street after having the suspension done.

    I am now on my 3rd WRR and plan to have the suspension done this winter. If you ride any whoops, you really notice a difference.
    Bitingdog likes this.
  13. Cuttlefish

    Cuttlefish Riding to disappear.

    Joined:
    May 31, 2016
    Oddometer:
    2,364
    Location:
    Sunshine coast Qld Australia
    Before I had my WR suspension re-valved I was starting to notice the ride was getting harsher on the road and I was becoming tired of feeling all the small bumps in the road. The re-valve took care of that. A BMW GS1200 rider jumped on my mate's 2016 with stock suspension last Sunday and took it for a spin then came back and jumped on my 2015 and he came back and immediately said my suspension felt "plush".
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  14. 1ggy

    1ggy Wage Slave

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    Oct 29, 2014
    Oddometer:
    42
    Location:
    PCB
    Had GoRace redo my rear shock, night and day difference off road and on the street. Then again, my rear shock was probably already FUBAR when I bought it so I'm not sure the pogo stick I had was what a stock suspension should feel like. But I had many moments off-road where I almost went over the bars after a big hit or whoops before I redid the rear shock and none since then.
    Bitingdog likes this.
  15. CorriganJ

    CorriganJ Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2020
    Oddometer:
    41
    Location:
    Madrid
    Quick question - I'm looking for a WR250R and it seems there aren't any in Spain after 2006 (a few 2007). I'm guessing they got culled because of emissions? If anyone could confirm would be great. Thanks
  16. NJ-Bill

    NJ-Bill Life is good Supporter

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    Jun 11, 2005
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    08003
    USA did not get the WR250R until 2008. I do not recall it being released earlier in other countries. A quick search confirms 2008 was the first year.
  17. Nutsbolts

    Nutsbolts Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2019
    Oddometer:
    51
    Location:
    New Zealand
    My shock was in need of a rebuild anyway which is probably why I had such a big improvement, it was feeling harsh on compression and always was lacking rebound dampening, there was nitrogen in the oil, oil in the bladder and the piston seal ring was worn. Its a 2014 with 24000km on it, the shop machined the piston to take a common KYB seal ring as the stock one is not replaceable. The shock IMO is better than its ever has been, both street and dirt.
    Bitingdog likes this.
  18. johnkol

    johnkol Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2011
    Oddometer:
    503
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    Going over the bars is due to the complete lack of rebound damping of the shock. Installing Race Tech Gold Valves solves this problem, and it is the most affordable solution to the rear shock problem. If you are mechanically inclined you can do this yourself; if not, a shop can do it relatively inexpensively.
    Bitingdog and woofer2609 like this.
  19. johnkol

    johnkol Been here awhile

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    Aug 6, 2011
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    503
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    SF Bay Area
    You're referring to the WR250F, not to the WR250R that was first released in 2008. The WRR has always been street legal, but the WRF had also been street legal for quite some time, resulting in poor sales for the WRR in Europe, which forced Yamaha to pull it out of that market.
  20. woofer2609

    woofer2609 Less flow, more Gnar

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2011
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    2,163
    Location:
    Extreme Pacific SouthWest (of Canada)
    I only have the one bike with 3 sets of wheels (supermoto, dual sport tires, and dirt knobbies) and have a shock with the Racetech Goldvalve and rebuilt shim stack. Simply adjusting the shock to a faster rebound allows the bike to corner confidently without any wallowing, or having the shock "packdown" from successive small bumps. If I forget to reset the rebound, I find I have to correct mid corner, which is best avoided. While the original shock may be acceptable on the street, it is by no means superior to a rebuilt Racetech or Gorace shock and far inferior in the dirt (especially whoops). Zero regrets, apart from not doing it sooner. I also tend to set the shock for a faster rebound when it is loaded for camping, and don't bother with adjusting the spring.
    My Racetech data sheet recommends 16 clicks out on the rebound from seated for off road, and I use that, but for on road, I go with 3-5 clicks. So far so good.
    Bitingdog likes this.