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Yamaha XT250 Thread - All things related to the XT from riding to modifications.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by RL Lemke, Sep 23, 2018.

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  1. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    randy, I think your speedometer is behaving as intended. At any rate, the same thing happens on my 2014. It stays at 0, then jumps to 5 mph, then if I slow down below 5, it jumps back to 0. I imagine all fuel injected models will do this, and maybe the carb models as well. The XT225s have the speed sensor on the front wheel.
    randypower and NicKel78 like this.
  2. NicKel78

    NicKel78 Been here awhile

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    If @CloudSplitter is seeing the same thing, then most likely is as intended. From what I can tell, the sensor ring doesn’t have many teeth on it so at a certain speed, the sensor probably doesn’t have enough sensitivity to read which sounds to be the 5mph point. There is no gap adjustment on these either further decreasing the sensitivity.
  3. CaseyJones

    CaseyJones Ridin' that train

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    Silly question...but I don't have anyplace else to ask it.

    2018 XT250. Just got it two months ago. Out of someone's junk-pile I got an older, still-working LED H4 insert. For free, you know? I knew it would have focus problems, but I'm not going to be running fast in the dark - and anyway, it's not as bad as some others. Good bright forward light, though - for traffic in daylight.

    Of course, the rubber boot that fits over the back of the housing, over the base of the stock H4 bulb, doesn't fit.

    Given that the heat off the LED is elsewhere, the base/fan and the ballast; is that boot necessary? I was surprised at the dust in the wiring on mine - it only has 1600 miles, a thousand of which I put on. I don't plan to be wallowing in mud on it. Rain? It does happen, sometimes. The bulb base fits like it should; the retainer ring works with the insert...but there are gaps, I could see them from the back with a test lighting before I buttoned it all up.

    What's a solution, or is it not going to let enough crud in (in dusty use, as it will be getting) to matter?
  4. randypower

    randypower Been here awhile Supporter

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    Spring Branch, Texas, USA
    Thank you both very much. Knowing the behavior on mine is not an anomaly means it's not broken so I can relax and let it be. I find it hard to believe I never noticed it before, during thousands of miles in >5 years of XT ownership.
    NicKel78 likes this.
  5. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    Well, you have company again. I never noticed that speed indication drop-out below 5 mph, either, in 6 years of riding. I guess that, when going that slow, we're not watching the speedometer.
    NicKel78 and randypower like this.
  6. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    Casey, many headlight LEDs come apart in the middle, to allow installing the rubber seal. It's worth looking, anyway. I do think it would be a good idea to close those gaps, somehow, if not by cutting the original seal, then maybe you could shoot some of that expanding foam, from a pressurized can, around the base (but I don't know about that stuff taking the heat)
    CaseyJones likes this.
  7. Milano.B

    Milano.B Adventurer

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    Feb 15, 2004
    Oddometer:
    69
    Location:
    Southern California
    Not all LED H4 Retrofits are created equal.
    Mine has no issue with the rubber cowl.
    This upgrade is Reversible should it malfunction on a trip and only H4 Halogen is available in store.


    IMG_5587 (2).JPG
  8. CaseyJones

    CaseyJones Ridin' that train

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    I got around the rubber boot problem by slicing it, center to end, at the bottom - through the vent flap. The only way I could get it on there - no, the LED does not unscrew. Like I said, it was an older unit. Not used - it was a display model at a local custom-truck-parts store; I know one of the assistant managers. The display was taken down and instead of throwing it out, they threw a few of the H4 bulbs in a box. He gave it to me, free.

    But, anyway. Sliced the boot, wrapped it around the bulb and used hot glue to fasten it to the back of the bulb and do a 95-percent seal-up (most of the gap closed. Good enough, I figure.

    Now...hard shifting. When hot. Anyone else have that problem? Clutch isn't dragging and it's fine cold. It's just that every so often, the shifter binds up...most common is a 2-1 shift that just doesn't happen. Not a false neutral - the lever feels firm, as if you're in 1st; but then, taking off...oops.

    It's now doing it in upshifts, too. Clutch and go, and no shift. Typically, it un-binds after rolling a few feet; but pressure on the gear lever doesn't do it. Sometimes, on 2-1 failure, even rolling backwards doesn't do it.

    Linkage is fine; gear lever and pivot fine. Miles, 1700. Oil changed at 600 miles.
  9. NicKel78

    NicKel78 Been here awhile

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    What oil?
  10. CaseyJones

    CaseyJones Ridin' that train

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    Not sure, but it was done by the dealer before I bought it.

    This was a trade in. Sold originally by this Yamaha dealer two years ago (a 2018 model) and then was a garage queen for two years. Had 580 miles put on it in that time. The owner had a move, and dropped it off a U-haul - some scratches on the plastic - and then, inexplicably, he traded it in for another model. The sales manager told me, but I've forgotten. A road bike.

    So, it was serviced; and the OTD price was a thousand less than new. Plus it had a few farkles on - a rear rack and tailbag.

    All I could say about the oil was, in the sightglass window, it looked fresh. The dealer has a mixed reputation, but not outright ugly - they've done work for me before, and it's been mostly acceptable.

    I had planned to change the oil myself this fall anyway; and I also hadn't planned to put that many miles on it. Eight weeks and 1100 miles. This bike suits me, well.
    randypower likes this.
  11. gseur

    gseur Been here awhile

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    Feb 13, 2009
    Oddometer:
    671
    Location:
    Valais, Switzerland
    What question me is that, on the ATV the left side is closed (7&8) but there’s a hose on the right side (19).
    No problem by closing both?
    I tried to order the parts on Partzilla but due to COVID (?????) they don’t send outside the states.
  12. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    gseur, I only added a flat metal blanking plate under the flange, where that AIS tube on the left side of the bike attaches. This way, I keep all the original parts where I know where they are. It's probably only a couple of ounces, and I've been happy with the results. If you remove items, you really need to plug the holes.
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  13. gseur

    gseur Been here awhile

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    Thanks but what have you done on the right side. What’s the utility of this tube?
  14. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    gseur. I have done nothing on the right side, because the only reason I blocked off the air induction system (AIS) was to prevent damage to my wiring, etc. On my 2014 XT, exhaust gases backed up the induction system pipe, and melted the induction system hose. The hot gases then bagan to melt the wiring under the fuel tank.

    The hose on the right side is to suck hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and "induct" them into the exhaust, along with air from the filter case:

    Edit: that paragraph is wrong. That hose actually goes to the manifold, between the throttle body and the engine. The tube on the right side of the engine is the oil delivery tube.
    Air Induction System.jpg
    Edit: 2016 and later models should have a longer induction system pipe, item 2, to help prevent the problem I had.

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  15. nvklr

    nvklr Been here awhile

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    The right side tube has nothing to do with the air injection system, as far as I know anyway, I left that alone. (US model). Not sure what it is for.

    Cloudsplitter beat me to it.
  16. JB44

    JB44 Been here awhile

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    Cloudsplitter,

    Sorry to butt in...I also have a 2014 XT, and am considering removing the air injection completely.

    If I do, where does that right side hose attach to (hose #4 in the diagram)?

    Edit: sorry again...wrong hose...#4 would get capped off.

    Think I have it figured out.

    jb
  17. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    jb, in case you don't have it figured out, or anybody else doesn't, that hose goes to the top of the gearcase housing, on the right. You have to disconnect it to get the cover off, in order to reach the clutch plates, or gears. If your experience is anything like mine, you should figure out how to adjust that clutch travel limiting screw, NOW, before you need to do it on the trail.

    Edit: that's wrong. The hose on the right is the oil delivery tube. The third hose actually goes to the manifold, between the throttle body and the engine.
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    JB44 likes this.
  18. randypower

    randypower Been here awhile Supporter

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    Isn't this what the recall corrected? (Except the recall doesn't mention melting wires.)

    CS, did you do the recall and still had the problem?
  19. gseur

    gseur Been here awhile

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    Thanks Cloud for this complete answer.
    JB let us know what you do and how it work.
  20. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    randy, no, I never had the recall done, because I had already installed a blanking plate under the flange on that pipe.

    My first experience with it was to just notice that the hose had come off the pipe. I pointed this out to the service department, and they re-connected it. A couple weeks later, it had come off again, but was all melted on the end. The dealer's service department replaced the hose with a red, high-temperature automotive hose, and it never came off again. However a couple months later, when I learned more about the problem, I installed the blanking plate.

    I didn't learn about the melting insulation on the wiring until I had the 7,000 mile maintenance done, in Colorado, while riding the TransAmerica Trail.
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    randypower and JB44 like this.