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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by RL Lemke, Sep 23, 2018.
Yes it is. 1982 cx500 turbo, 4,247.00 miles. wanna buy it ? Needs a little work.
That and the cartridge emulator:
RaceTech has a good explanation about how cartridge emulators function:
http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Emulators-How They Work
Thanks RL..... Let us know how they work
I asked about tool kits before. Here’s mine for now. Not shown is the factory tool kit and a spare spark plug. Open to critique.
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I always find tool kit discussions interesting because many pack an entire toolbox and some a credit card.
From my perspective, it is where one is riding that should determine what to pack for repairs.
Round-The-World? Pack everything necessary to fix everything, especially the tires.
Trans America Trail? Well, there are a lot of towns on the route, so probably not as much as RTW. Still, tire repair is tops.
Adventure Touring? Even more towns, so even fewer parts and tools.
Trail Riding? Tire repair.
Tubliss or Mousse? Even less tire stuff.
See the focus here? Tires are the most vulnerable. However, if like our friend from the Land of OZ, in very dusty conditions, a spare air filter may come in handy.
All my advise assumes you have already made your bike crashworthy. Handguards to protect the levers. Folding mirrors to protect the clutch perch. I added the protective sliders for the vulnerable engine case parts. Otherwise, you will need a lot of epoxy steel, and extra oil.
For Tubliss tires, this is what I will carry.
Same as with all my tubeless street rides.
It all packs this small:
Another way of looking at the whole important stuff to take program is to figure out what is most vulnerable and what will stop a ride.
Items that come loose are easily identified and made better with the correct torque and Locktite. Should be something to take care of before heading out on any adventure.
So, what breaks in a fall? What breaks in a simple drop? If there is a BIG crash, well then it is time to call AAA, or better yet Good Sam as they have unlimited mileage towing. (Both require getting to a paved road first.)
I identified above the items I think fail in a drop or fall, but are easily protected. If you bend a shift lever or rear brake you can still continue, if with some difficulty.
For me the most vulnerable item is always the tires and a puncture.
If you use tubes, you will need all the tools to remove the tire, tire irons to remove one bead and a spare inner tube. Giant PITA. Either the bike has to be laid on the side, or you also carry one of those funky sort-of jacking stands.
You know from above my preference for easy tire repairs, or better yet, ignore tire issues with a mousse.
But then, I rode with a guy that carried a lot of tools. His old BMW Airhead GS bent a valve. On the side of the trail he removed the valve, hammered it pretty straight with a rock, reinstalled everything, and off we rode again.
I carry 12 heavy duty zip-ties just for popped tubes. I rode close to 30 miles out of a greasy, root-rocky trail with 12 zip-ties holding my rear tire on... did about 10 miles with 6 on my front before too. I'm not changing a tube on the side of a trail. if the tire gets mucked up so be it. If the rim gets damaged...well then I guess it'll give me a reason to by a new set and repair tho old one good enough for a spare.
I've actually gotten pretty good at swapping out tires so I suppose a trail-side bead break and tube swap is doable, but then I'm just packing too much. Tubes, Spoons, air, etc. For a week long adv ride, sure. For a weekend hooligan ride, no sir.
If for no other reason, the torque values offered in the Service Manual are worth the price of admission.
Lifted the little fenderette 2" to provide for clearance and mud. Used button socket bolts to make for a smooth face toward the tire.
I do the same thing. The majority of my rides Im hauling my bike somewhere. So Im generally limping it back to camp/van for repairs.
I now have tubliss on the rear of my dirtbike. Love it, as I replace tires Im installing tubliss on the rest.
Better Carry spare tubes. I thought i was the last one to have a puncture but on the Arkansas section of the TAT i picked up a rivet in back tire that went through tire,Safety liner, and high pressure tube. When that happens you have to break the tire all the way down to remove safety liner and replace with a regular tube. i always carry spare tubes.
New Brake/Tail Light
LED - Small - Bright
Cut down light to take advantage of the extra structure to bolt onto the Yamaha tail plastic and used part of the rubber boot to help it look a little better.
Made the wiring connection under the side plate, next to all the other wiring to protect the connections.
Waterproof shrink/crimp connectors.
Now, I await the return the custom seat from Renazco Dual Sport Seats. http://renazco.com/building_seats.cfm
Wow, that sucks
If I was doing something like the TAT I'd carry all kinds of gear. Most of my rides I can limp it back to the van. A dozen sturdy zipties will hold the tire to the rim to ride back.
Tail light looks great.
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How about a little size comparison?
Haven't decided on replacement signals yet because I want bright LED ones that are rugged, not cheap Chinese ones.
I have a path for the turn signals now. Ordered 4 of two different brands on Amazon. The highest rated ones. One well rated on AdvPulse. I have the LED capable signal relay. So it is now installation. I want an easy to redo connector in case a dirt nap causes a signal to break. I have just such a connector. Will post the install after complete.
After riding the XT my wrists hurt. This does not happen even after longer hours on my BMW. Anyone have any ideas about what’s causing this and if so, how to prevent it?
It’s the bar bend. Replace the bars and the pain will vanish.
The trick is finding the right bend.
I would carefully measure the BMW bend and go to the Renthal site to compare. Find the bend that most closely matches the BMW bend.
What I have learned is that the angle of the grip, fore and aft, makes all the difference. The wrist angle appears to be the issue.