Yet Another Budget Ninja Mutant Build

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by draco_1967, Feb 5, 2019.

  1. 8382

    8382 KLR'sKlX"sn'stuff

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    12
    Location:
    Ridin'thaROCK
    Nice work Mr. Draco! I too have had an early ninja follow me home. Just checking out every build. Are those Buell headlights? Where did you find the reducer for the rear shock? All the best, Blair.
    #21
  2. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    Hey Blair,
    The headlights are Chinese knockoffs of the Buell headlights. They are dual H4 bulbs. If you check out this post from another inmate using the same headlights. He is pleased with the output. I still need to wire mine up. I will be changing the bulbs to LED. I don't think the stock wiring would hold up to 2 H4 halogen bulbs.
    The reducers I purchased here. They do need to be cut down to fit.
    Good luck with your build!
    #22
  3. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    I made some holes, and added threads to a couple of them. It was my first time working with a tap, and I did a test hole to make sure I could do it without screwing it up!
    0308192035.jpeg 0308192034_HDR.jpeg
    #23
  4. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    Is it wrong to be collecting parts for the next build before this one is done? :hmmmmm

    I traded the ninja front wheel plus $20 for a DL 1000 front in good shape. The bike had a blown engine, and he wanted the thing to roll to the boneyard, so he wouldn't sell the wheel outright. It saves me the trouble of selling the ninja wheel, and it saved me a couple Benjamins for another wheel. I just need a pair of DRZ forks, and I'm ready for the next build!:deal
    #24
  5. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    Finally got to my friend's house to get some welding done. The peg mounts are now done except for cleanup and paint. I feel like I can move forward and make progress now.

    Still left to do:
    -Front brake line
    -Paint brackets for gauges/windscreen and pegs
    -Paint tank and plastics
    -Switch out oil pan for the better '12+ (already have)
    -ride it!


    0330191544.jpeg 0330191544a.jpeg 0330191544b.jpeg 0330191353.jpeg
    #25
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  6. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    I had to redo the brake caliper spacer bracket. The previous version caused the lower brake pad pin to interfere with the rotor. So now the ninja can stop again!
    0408192104.jpg
    0408192105.jpg

    I also picked up a stock fender for cheap on fleabay. Part of the fender is sitting on the tire waiting for the license plate bracket to soak in the de-sister solution and then be painted.
    0408192141.jpg


    The last big things mechanically are the shifter linkage, change the fork oil, and tighten up all the nuts and bolts. Then it can hit the road for a bit before all the painting.
    #26
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  7. 11motos

    11motos Feral Rider

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2017
    Oddometer:
    1,355
    Location:
    On the Road
    Awesome! thanks for sharing.
    When raising the bike in the back how are you compensating for chain clearance on the swing arm?
    Are you increasing the diameter + larger sprockets in drive and back?
    #27
  8. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    So far, there isn't an issue with interference. Right now, the chain slack is loose, and it doesn't contact the swing arm. I don't think that JD Rocks and the others have had to make any modifications on their bikes either. I put together a document that has most of the key information for building one of these bikes -- a recipe of sorts. If you would like a copy, I'll PM it to you.

    Last night I did some more work. The back brake is functional again. I used the brake pedal and pivot bracket from a KLR.
    0409192043a.jpg
    I also have the bars and controls sorted.
    0409192123a.jpg

    I took measurements for the shifter linkage, and ordered a pivot bolt and threaded linkage rod to the specs I needed. This thing will be rideable within a week. Once the weather warms up again, I'll paint all the brackets I've made and start prepping the tank and tail plastics for paint. I see light at the end of the tunnel!
    #28
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  9. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    The pivot bolt arrived today. McMaster wanted $12 for the bolt, but I found Bolt Depot and ordered it there for $3.
    All I need now is the linkage rod.
    0413192022c.jpg
    0413192022.jpg

    I got some mirrors as well. I beleive they are Tuono knock-offs.
    0411192024.jpg
    #29
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  10. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    So, the linkage rod came in, I got it hooked up, and then couldn't figure out why it would not shift up past 2nd...
    Oh, well that's because puting the linkage above the shift rod makes the rod turn the opposite direction from stock. I guess the mutant will be moto GP shift until I can figure out a new way to link everything together.
    #30
  11. fast1075

    fast1075 Not a Lemming Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2013
    Oddometer:
    1,714
    Location:
    Flaw'da
    It won't go past 2nd gear sitting still because of the neutral finder function. The neutral finder is a mechanical function of the transmission. The transmission shafts have to be turning before it will shift past 2nd gear.
    #31
    draco_1967 likes this.
  12. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    That's true, but when shifting up on the shifter, it is moving the shift shaft in the opposite direction from stock, so up puts it into first. With the engine running, I could shift up through the gears by moving the shift pedal down. I have to find a way to reverse the linkage without causing binding or scraping the current peg mount setup :muutt

    I can probably move the shifter lever pivot location in front of the foot peg mount, and flip the linkage on the shift shaft to solve the problem.
    I hope I'm using the right terminology for the parts...:dunno
    #32
  13. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    It's an Easter-eve miracle! IT LIVES!

    I got the shift linkage sorted this afternoon after completing my honey-do list.
    0420192028a.jpg

    I then changed the fork oil, checked over all the nuts and bolts on the front end, swing arm, rear wheel, shock, and set the chain slack. I reconnected the tank, mounted the instrument cluster, and added a little fuel.

    She started right up, and idled a little low. The dual headlight draws too much, so I unplugged one light for now. I will get some LED bulbs in there to reduce the draw.
    0420192028.jpg

    It rides quite nicely. I believe there is a sticking link or two in the chain. I will just change it out at this point. It is probably the original chain, and the bike has a little over 12k miles.

    0420192028c.jpg
    It is a hoot! It is still as light and nimble as it was as a Ninja, and now it is tall, the pegs feel good, and it rides smoothly. I only went around the block a few times just in case it exploded and I needed to walk home :lol3
    #33
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  14. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    I reassembled the gauge cluster and windscreen mount, double checked fasteners, and swapped out the halogen headlight bulbs for LEDs, and then took it for a spin.

    The Shinko 804/805 tires are surprisingly smooth. Only at parking lot speeds do they feel bumpy, especially when doing tight, slow turns.

    The suspension feels good on the rough, potholed roads I have around here. I need to find some nearby dirt roads.

    I do have a high front fender on the way.

    I'm going to ride it a few times to make sure everything feels right, then I'll paint all the brackets and bodywork. 0422192127.jpg 0422192127c.jpg 0422192126.jpg 0422192126a.jpg
    #34
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  15. 11motos

    11motos Feral Rider

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2017
    Oddometer:
    1,355
    Location:
    On the Road
    Is the pivot going to be ok? Why not use a stainless round head Allen bolt? The anodizing will rust right? or lacquer it perhaps?
    I guess I am trying to understand how to A) keep it low profile and B) Preventing from getting loose.
    Or perhaps you have a bushing inside and that is tight and what holds the lever tight in place?
    You will need a tight fit but with some latitude but not too much.

    The beast is looking awesome. Good job!
    #35
  16. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    Thanks!
    That's a great question.
    The bold it a 12mm shoulder bolt that has a short m10x1.5 thread at the end. That end threads into the foot peg mount plate, and is backed with a nut and a little red threadlocker. The shoulder bottoms out on the mount plate, and there is a washer and o-ring on each end. Here is a quick little cross-section drawing of how it works:
    Untitled.png
    The blue is the shoulder bolt, and I made the o-rings and washers black. The shifter pivots freely on the shoulder.

    I will need to paint the bolt head, as it is just black oxide, and will rust. The shoulder will be kept lubed with some WP grease, so that part won't be a problem.

    I was able to find some OEM zinc plated shoulder bolts, but they were all 14mm shoulders. There idn't an easy way to find a random dimensional piece of hardware on sites like Partzilla.

    Hope that helps!
    #36
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  17. 11motos

    11motos Feral Rider

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2017
    Oddometer:
    1,355
    Location:
    On the Road
    Thanks for the details.. This helps explain the design. If you need a round shallow head in stainless steel I can machine a copuple of bolts for you. Just let me know. I am also looking at converting a ninja 500 so all tips help. Thanks.
    #37
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  18. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    I rode the mutant to work today. It's only 13 miles, but It showed me a few things:
    • I need to rethink the gauge/windscreen mount. There is a lot of movement on bumps. The screws holding it to the upper clamp started to back out.
    • The shifter pivot MUST have red threadlocker. I hadn't put any on because I want to paint the bracket first. The pivot was loose by the time I got to work.
    • This thing is a hoot! I accidentally lifted the front of the ground when the engine hesitated for a split second as I whacked the throttle open quickly. After the hesitation, the bike took off. The front end gets quite light on aggressive acceleration.
    #38
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  19. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    420
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    That's a kind offer. I'll let you know. Right now, since I moved the pivot forward and down, it doesn't interfere with anything.
    #39
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  20. 11motos

    11motos Feral Rider

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2017
    Oddometer:
    1,355
    Location:
    On the Road
    I always fear that on a pivot. Can you get a longer thread and put two nuts? Or at least one with a nylon locking ring. This on top of the red locktite.

    Regarding the font end lifting during acceleration, remember... always point a loaded gun in a safe direction! Lol
    #40