Yet Another Budget Ninja Mutant Build

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by draco_1967, Feb 5, 2019.

  1. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    650
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    Rode home, and I noticed that the windscreen edge is quite blurry in the 3-5k rev range. It is the source of the buzz I have been hearing. I need to figure out how to stabilize it better. For now, there is a piece of rubber between the screen and the headlights. That seems to have stopped the buzz.

    Nothing fell off on the ride home today, and I tried to hit all the potholes and bumps I could. I will have some tools, Gorilla tape, and zip ties with me on the shake out trip this weekend just in case...
    #61
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  2. 11motos

    11motos Feral Rider

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    On the Road
    nothing falling off is quite a landmark! lol
    regarding the buffeting, just put the left hand on the screen or somethign to see if 1 or 2 extra inches will help. or try to tilt it either way given you do not
    screw the light beam angle.
    There are those mini screw on extensions that can be extended or retracted as needed.
    hard to say but it should not be too complicated.
    #62
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  3. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    650
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    Thanks for the suggestions. Fortunately, the airflow off of the windscreen is great for me; nearly perfect. The issue is the brackets that I made to hold the windscreen vibrate with the engine RPM. If I grab the windscreen when I hear the buzz, it goes away.

    The arms that hold the windscreen are ~7" long, and there isn't enough triangulation to keep them stable. The bottom of the windscreen is only 1/8" from the top of the headlight housing, so I wedged a strip of rubber between the two. The contact between the headlight and screen now stabilizes the screen enough to prevent the vibration and buzzing I was getting before (the buzzing noise was from the windscreen vibrating against the headlight housing).
    #63
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  4. 11motos

    11motos Feral Rider

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    Thats good. That is what I was thinking as I was reading... some sort of dampening rod / support on rubber blocks.
    Some vibrations are fine but certain harmonics can be quite anoying.
    It is great you figured that one out.

    In am tangled with the carbs rebiuild on my little vx500 project.
    #64
    draco_1967 likes this.
  5. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    650
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    Test run complete! Nothing fell off on this trip of ~260 miles. I headed south from Salt Lake to Scofield Reservoir for a church youth camp. I was invited to go for part of the activities Friday evening.

    This morning, I took off further South on the Energy Loop road (fantastic road), and made it to the start of Skyline Drive (North half). Skyline Dr winds along the peaks of the mountains at 8k-10k feet. It's beautiful!
    The first half of the road is pretty smooth and well groomed. There was some washboarding and a lot of little potholes. Once I started to descend on the Noth half of the trail, there were a lot more ruts and a little mud from all the snow melt.
    The bike performed well, and I had a lot of fun. It did get sleepy at one point when I tried to pull to the side of the road and target-fixated on some wet grass. Rookie mistake!
    20190629_102738.jpg

    No harm done (other than my pride). I did need help lifting the bike. It just wanted to slide when I lifted it. Luckily, it is a well-traveled road, and a nice guy in a truck helped me. Any tips on lifting a bike that just wants to slide on the road?

    More pics:
    20190629_092620.jpg
    20190629_094317.jpg
    20190629_100158.jpg
    20190629_104408.jpg
    #65
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  6. 11motos

    11motos Feral Rider

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    Beautiful route and pics.
    It is hard to say what you could use to help you lift the bike but there are steps that help.
    If the front wheel is moving grab it and pull it to a place it can be seated. It could be a small hole in the ground, a tire track dried in mud, a rock, a root, even a nstural slope in the oposite direction of the tire.
    I am pretty strong but I dont even try to lift something heavy w/o leverage.
    Always carry a nice strap or even a rope.
    Turn the tire and handlebars outwards. Simply running a strap or rope around the tire might give you a lot more leverage.
    Before that tie a cord or bandana or something around the front brake so you can lock the front wheel.
    If I am in very soft grass and soil i might take a rock or piece of wood and hit it with my heel snd weigjt to drive it into the ground so it can be used as support by the wheel.
    If the rear moves too try to bring it to a spot you want. Make sure is in gear to lock it.
    When ready, go to the other side and by standing with your back against the bike bench press with your legs to pivot the bike out. Donot use your back. Use your legs.
    If it is too low and csnnot grab the chasis or subframe bars then this is where a nice wide strap will also help you since you can run a loop and build your optimal height where we are the strongest with out legs that is 1/3 past and past 90 degrees. If one is totally crouched down then there is no leverage in the legs to start pressing.
    It is hard to say what is the easiest way because so many variables but hopefully this helped.
    I would suggest one day go to a safe place and practice with others observing.
    Do not assume there is alway someone to help.
    #66
  7. tkdcol

    tkdcol Been here awhile

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    Nov 7, 2016
    Oddometer:
    145
    Location:
    Medellín, Colombia
    #67
  8. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    650
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    They use a standard H4 bulb, so 55w each on low, and 60w each on high. I swapped over to LED H4 bulbs that draw 36w each (high or low)
    #68
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  9. tkdcol

    tkdcol Been here awhile

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    Nov 7, 2016
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    seems strange that they would be low on power, as that's the same as stock
    #69
  10. 11motos

    11motos Feral Rider

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    Did you have to add any other electric components to swap it to LED or is just a direct plug in?

    I got new LED blinkers so I hope they just swap naturally w/o extra parts needed.
    #70
  11. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    650
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    The stock headlights are a separate low and high beam bulb, so they are not on at the same time. When I turned on the high beam with the new dual headlight, the 10a fuse blew. Both LEDs draw a little more than a single stock bulb, but they are less than a single high beam halogen.

    I did have to get a new flasher unit that was compatible with the LED blinkers.
    #71
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  12. 16VGTIDave

    16VGTIDave Reaver made me do it...

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    Location:
    Drumbo, Ontario, Canada
    LED headlight bulbs should be plug and play, though you may have to mount power supplies. For the blinkers, chances are very good that you will need an electronic flasher relay. Or you could negate the reduced wattage of the LED's and spend much more by installing load resistors so the stock flasher relay operates correctly.
    #72
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  13. tkdcol

    tkdcol Been here awhile

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    on my gen1 versys, for hi both the high and low beams are on
    #73
  14. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    650
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    I finally replaced the chain. The old chain had a couple of links that were kinked, and it made a horrible racket when the kink passed over the counter sprocket. The chain was not OEM as it had a clip master link (I didn't notice until I had cut the chain off...). I wonder how many miles are on the chain, as the bike only shows 14k. I can't image the second chain being toast unless it was poorly adjusted (probably was run too tight or something). The new chain is smooth as silk :ricky
    #74
  15. 11motos

    11motos Feral Rider

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    Lots of noise is not good.
    Are the sprokets ok? Dont assume anything and measure them with the calipers and/or micrometer because they might shorten the life of your nww chain. Normally chains last me a long time with good care and change all parts at the same time so they conform to each other.
    Also I dont trust the clip so I install and stack new pins with the chain tool.
    Did you get a chain with o-rings?
    #75
  16. MotoPolo

    MotoPolo So many places, so little time Supporter

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2015
    Oddometer:
    915
    Location:
    Portland OR
    #76
  17. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    650
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    Well, I thought it might be a good time to update now that we are getting that dreaded white stuff from the sky...

    I've had a ton of fun on the Dirt Ninja. I have headed down a few more forest roads, tested the tires in some twisty canyons, and commuted to work a bit. The bike is pretty great!

    I swapped the oil pan for one from a '12 model year. I can't believe someone at Kawasaki thought the original design was good and they kept it for 6 years! Now the drain is on the proper side of the bike, it doesn't leak (PO screwed up the threads), and it is less of a risk off-pavement.

    This week, I started fitting the new front end together (DRZ forks in Versys clamps) only to find that the guy I bought the triple tree from most have seriously messed up the front end. The lower clamp is tweaked so the forks are not parallel. Another lower is on it's way from fleabay.

    This spring, I'm going to take an ADV/offroad training course so I can feel a bit more confident off-pavement.

    20190810_083458.jpg
    20190810_083511.jpg
    #77
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  18. jdrocks

    jdrocks Gravel Runner

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,964
    now you'll find out why i recommend those 49mm DRZ forks.

    better extend that sidestand after the new forks are in place, the KLR sidestand recipe is in the V649 build.
    #78
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  19. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    650
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    I'm looking forward to feeling the improvement with the DRZ forks. Unfortunately it will have to wait a little longer. I got the replacement stem/lower fork clamp, and it is also tweaked, worse than the first! The seller is refunding, so all is OK, but it's a little frustrating.

    Just a little skiwompus...
    20191204_170951.jpg
    #79
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  20. draco_1967

    draco_1967 Spoon!

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    650
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    I'm finally getting around to upgrading the Dirt Ninja. I have all of the pieces to put the Versys/DRZ front end on. I need to fab the brake caliper adapter. I also need to do a new mount for the speedo, winscreen, and headlights. I am thinking of doing more of a rally type setup. I will never rally with it, but it seems like a doable way to make a sturdy mount with my fabrication skills (or lack thereof).

    I am not sure what I want to do for headlights. My buddy wants to build one of these beasts as well, and he is going to take the full KLR front end that I am currently using, so the headlights that I currently have will go with that front end. I am thinking of doing a single round headlight. Potentially one of these, which seem to get good reviews in terms of the actual usable light output.

    Last night, I hung the bike back up to redo the peg mounts. I said in a previous post that the right side mount did bend slightly, even with the reinforcement behind it. 1/8 steel was just not enough. I ordered some 1/4" and 3/8" aluminum (T6) flat bar that should be more than sturdy enough. I am moving the pegs back just a little for better standing position. I found a set of Fastway pegs and CRF450 mounts on fleabay that will be bolted to the new mount blocks.

    I signed up for a community continuing education welding class that starts next month. The class is 8 weeks, and they said you can work on personal projects as part of the practice portion of classes. I am hoping they will let me weld on the frame so I can add the mount points for the Versys passenger peg supports.
    #80