Yo Sobrevivi el Camino a Batopilas

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by rickcorwn, Mar 26, 2011.

  1. cwc

    cwc . Supporter

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    We rested for the remainder of the day after the tire repair. My replacement tube showed up from Chihuahua and I packed it as a spare.

    The next day we rode a 50 mile loop that included a newly completed road between Satevo and Buena Vista.

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    I took no pictures on this loop so maybe someone else will add some.

    The repaired tube worked fine so all was good.

    We stopped in Satevo and it was really hot, so I arranged to cool off in the Rio Batopilas. I hope no one has a picture of that.
    #41
  2. judjonzz

    judjonzz Beastly

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    +1. At close to a hunnert bucks for a set of three, that is a huge endorsement from Charlie. Those must be the Motion Pros Tury bought from Craig. He saw them and had to have them, just like Craig saw mine and had to have them. I thought mine were worth a hunnert bucks, and I'm pretty cheap, but not as cheap as Charlie.

    This is a swell RR, guys, and I am subscribed. Usually the camera tends to flatten the terrain, but in Owwmyeye's videos it looks steeper than I remember it.
    #42
  3. Sleddog

    Sleddog Ridin, again:)

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    Rick, Powerhouse, Tury, Ian & Bob were going to ride up & tour the mines. They also had an encounter with the Rio crossings!

    cwc wanted to check out & get tracks of the new road between Satevo and Buena Vista. So he, fugarwe and myself took off to ride it.


    No pictures of cwc actually cooling off but, the bike was full up to the headlight!
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    cwc unplugging the headlight so it wouldn't get cooled off by the sloshing water!

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    It was a little hazy but the views were still awesome.

    Here fugarwe is checking out the road we'll be on shorty.
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    A couple weeks before we arrived, this area had one of the coldest temps they've had in years. Some of the vegetation & colors reminded me of fall.

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    Some of the area reminded me of the Needles in South Dakota's Black Hills

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    #43
  4. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    Dogs of the day.
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    Juanita's pooches :clap

    More to come soon.
    #44
  5. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    As you can see we're spending a few days in Bato a plan that can never go wrong. Right? A day is spent putzing with the bikes and exploreing the back streets and generally slowing down so our pace matches that of the locals :jose
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    We also get a chance to catch up on our shopping. This Tienda is housed in the old Casino building complete with period cash register and not so period Pepsi cooler.
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    Not everyone can sit still for a whole day so Powerhouse, Ian and Bob head for a tour of the church in Satevo. Where they meet the official tour guide Adanely. She's been doing this for many years now and is getting kinda grown up but things are tough in this area of Mexico so she continues to give tours and ask for money for the church.
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    The trio spend some time climbing around the church and taking pictures.
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    Every thing goes well until Ian asks Adanely if he can ring the church bell. She says yes but only once and Ian gives it a yank. The only sound that comes out is that of the bell rope hitting the floor. Ian has broken the bell or more correctly the bell rope :huh
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    Ian promises a new rope and the three amigos make a hasty retreat to town for some rope shopping.
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    Rope by the pound.
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    The next day everyone is ready for a ride. Like Sleddog mentioned we wound up with two groups well actually three. Sleddog and company off to do the Buena Vista loop, myself and others head for a gold mine and Daggy and Owwmyeye need to head back to the border their time in the canyons has expired :cry

    Daggy and Owwmyeye head out of town, adios amigos.
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    Before we leave there's some more tire changing activity down by the river. A big truck has parked down below the hotel and is pulling off a couple of the rear duels.
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    Remember theses are split rims note the extra safety measures taken.
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    New tire goes on.
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    We get packed and leave before they're finished then at the end of the day when we return we find this down by the river. Mexican tire recycling :lol3
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    Backing up some Powerhouse, Bob, Ian, Tury and me head out for the gold mine with a new rope for the church. It's not far out of town I loose the front on a switchback and biff it just before going over the edge. Somewhere in the process I whacked my shin on something maybe a foot peg. It's no big deal I can feel it but it's not painful, yet. A few more miles up the road I can feel my boot getting tighter, not a very good sign, More miles and now the shin is beginning to hurt some, hmmm.

    Me, Ian, Tury and Bob. Boot's getting kind of tight :bluduh
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    Looking back from where we came.
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    We stop at a rancho for Tury to deliver a small package and as always talk for a while. I pull my boot and see that there's a pretty nice sized lump growing on the side of my shin, bummer. It's not too much farther and my leg is starting to really hurt now. We pause at an intersection and I'm thinking I should stop here and wait for the others to pick me up on the way back. Tury gets a look at my leg and suggests a small rancho just down the road as a good spot for me to wait. He and I head that way and he explains to the folks what's going on with my leg and our plan to return for me later. As alway the Mexican people are so generous and after some introductions Tury takes off. Now I only know enough spanish to order a beer and find the bathroom so the conversation is pretty light. But they bring out a cot for me to lay down on and a chair to keep my leg elevated per Dr Turys orders. It's not long and all the folks here head off to do chores and leave me alone. I'm out side under on a kind of porch so it's nice and shady and there's a nice breeze flowing through the rancho. It's not long and I nod off in a nice nap, I really like this siesta thing :jkam

    Rancho Rick
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    Leg elevated, cool compress per Dr. Tury's orders :deal
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    The rancho's outdoor living room. It always amazes me that the Mexican people that have so little are willing to give so much :clap:clap
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    While I was napping the others pressed on to the mine or should I say attempted to press onto the mine. Someone else is going to have to explain how all this water got into Tury's exhaust. Powerhouse, Tury?? :huh
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    The others eventually return for me and we head back to Setavo with the new rope.
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    Adanely ready to go!
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    Once I'm back at Juanita's there's ice and some of Mexico's finest pharmaceuticals combined with just a little bit of tequila, purely for medicinal purposes :nod
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    We're scheduled to leave in the morning but with the condition of my leg in question we decide to spend another day in Bato. No one complains :thumb
    #45
  6. Tricepilot

    Tricepilot Bailando Con Las Estrellas Super Moderator Super Supporter

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    delicious story! :clap
    #46
  7. cwc

    cwc . Supporter

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    The mine tour loop was about 46 miles long and the participants took about 7 hours to complete it. Including incidents.

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    #47
  8. Powershouse

    Powershouse Flower Sniffer Supporter

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    While Rick and Tury set off to the rancho to find a suitable siesta setting for Rick, Bob and Ian and I hung at the junction. From there we could see and here blasting occurring at the mine a good ways off. On Tury's return we headed down into the valley and began cris-crossing the river. The first crossing was smooth, the second went well, but the third one gave us some troubles. Tury headed across but the water kept getting deeper and deeper and then he tipped over and the bike submerged.
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    We got Tury's bike right side up and across to the other side. You already saw the stream of water from the muffler drain. We tipped the bike up to drain some more, and pulled the plug and kicked it through till we were sure we had cleared the water out. Dumped out our boots and rung out our socks...you know the drill.

    Given that we were still a ways from the mine gate, where we may or may not be allowed through, and seeing as it was getting late in the afternoon and that we still had a bell rope to deliver in Satevo - we decided to reverse course. So back we went across the river crossings, up the hill and off to the rancho to collect Rick - who I must say was looking pretty darn relaxed despite an advancing case of rainbow leg. We made a stop for some refresas after all the hard work of back and forth across the river. Then it was up and over the ridge for the steep plunge down to Satevo.

    It was a good thing we got there when we did. Without a bell, the rhythm of life had been disrupted and Satevo had descended into chaos. Ian roared up with his kilograms of rope just in time to rescue the situation.
    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bLw3IjURDdxMuu342bYLQq-uqKGi3fSvJU0fYpJkAxQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_pQhZNLDMehw/TZseXmkOn5I/AAAAAAAAEZo/CfLGEegVcyI/s800/P1010761.JPG" height="800" width="600" /></a>
    #48
  9. cwc

    cwc . Supporter

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    #49
  10. Streeter

    Streeter Has Coping Skills

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    #50
  11. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    #51
  12. yamafitter

    yamafitter Old Cranky Guy Supporter

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    Well, well, well....
    It appears that it's not only KTM's that like to flop over in the river.
    This will appease FJRider who dumped his 530 KTM in just about the exact same spot last November.
    #52
  13. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    Another day in Bato, my goal is to rest my leg and do what ever I can to heal up in 24 hours. The others are planning trips to the Hacienda and some other kickin' around town stuff. Sleddog has some fine tuning to do on the KLR.
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    Powehouse looks into a tour bus ride Bato style.
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    Fugarwe takes some folks to see the bullet holes still left from a little shoot out a few years ago. Thankfully things like this are a rare occurrence around here.
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    Adobe is bulletproof! Who knew!
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    Kids in Bato like kids everywhere.
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    Tury does some fancy surgeon like stitching on his bags.
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    Our hostess with the mostess, Juanita picks some radishes from the garden.
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    I find that the hammock at Juanita's is perfect for keeping my leg elevated, doctors orders you know :jkam Ian heads off for Setavo on a mission, more on that later. Fugarwe meets an American that has been living here in Bato for many years. He's got some good info on the roads around the canyons here and they swap info. He also tells us about a group of 25 or 30 quad riders coming in from Chihuahua City. This is a pretty big deal because the tourist traffic is way, way down this year so the town is putting on a feed for them. He knows the mayor and lets him know that they should invite the moto riders too after all we've been here for 4 nights already. Now we've got dinner plans :dg

    After an afternoon of hammock time and a couple of ice downs my leg is feeling OK not great I'm still walking pretty gingerly. I got a chance to ride around town to see how it felt with a boot on and it's much better ridding than walking. Looks like tomorrow is a go for me!

    The pig feed that the town is putting on is at 7:00 that's when the quad riders are expected to arrive. So we head over to the courtyard of the bar where the food is but there's no quad riders to be seen. We're not that shy so we dig in. First off there's a big vat of pig simmering away in sauce :tb
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    Then there's roast peppers.
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    Even a mariachi band.
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    We dig in, watch your fingers.
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    Is this a great country or what? :bow
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    Now it's starting to get late and dark, none of the quad riders have arrived so we've had the whole place to our selves and eaten our fill. Then we hear the first quad puling up so we head outside which is right on the town square and find a good seat.
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    More and more riders trickle in until they're all present and accounted for.
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    You remember that it's really dry here? These guys are just covered thick with dust. The quads kick up a lot more than the motos and a lot of these guys were running in a big group.
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    After a while of hanging out on the town square some asks "where's Ian" someone else point across the square. Seems he's acquired a harem of 14 year olds :raabia Really just a little game of volleyball.
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    Well in the morning we need to be somebody and get outta Bato. The quad guys are headed for Urique on the same road we are and we DON'T want to get tangled up with them. The marathon is in Urique tomorrow and there's no rooms available so we're going to keep going onto Cerocahui :jose
    #53
  14. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    Earlier I mentioned Adanely, the young woman who for years has given the tours of the church in Setavo. How many inmates have met Adanely? I'm thinking a boat load and a half. How many inmates have benefited from the generosity of the Mexican people? Probably every one of us that have visited Mexico. I know I've had at least one instance for each visit south of the border and there's always one or two more in our group. We try to give something back usually a tip and even if the money is much needed it still seems trite.

    Everyone who has visited rural Mexico knows it's a tough life even for the strong. Adanely especially has it tough because of her epilepsy. The drug to control her seizures is expensive and even her family has trouble affording it all the time. Sad but true the stigma of her epilepsy combined with the expense of the drugs she need makes her undesirable as a wife here. Compounding all of this she hasn't been able to continue school past about the 6th grade. Needless to say the prospects for her to have a good life even by the relatively lower standards of rural Mexico is poor.

    The last day in Bato Ian left for Setavo to make a big difference in someone's life. He went to ask Adanely's family if he could "sponsor" her and bring her back to Ontario.

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    Ian's plan is to bring her to his home north of Toronto and to live with his family. To get her the medical help she needs and to get her into school. To give her the tools and opportunity to have a life she never could have envisioned for herself.

    Below is a message I got from Ian recently;

    "So far we have been able to obtain her election card and birth certificate but there was a spelling error on the election card so it had to be sent back in and will not be back to us until late in the month. We have put in her papers for her passport should be ready early May and then we will apply for her Canadian Visa. Her father traveled to Chihuahua last week to submit the papers, Arturo (Tury) has been in touch with her doctor to ensure we understand her medical condition and prepare the appropriate medical documents with contact information to make available to our local medical doctor in Kincardine to ensure we have the right medication available to her. We will be arranging travel for Adanely to get to Chihuahua for a current medical evaluation closer to her departure date. All is on track and looking good for Adanely to come to Canada late May early June. I am making the arrangements with the school in Toronto. More details to follow."

    I'd have to say that Ian is giving back in a BIG way.
    #54
  15. srileo

    srileo dot Indian snakecharmer Supporter

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    Wow! that is spectacularly generous of him.! hats off!!


    #55
  16. jazzer

    jazzer Lost again... Yeah! Supporter

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    Awesome!
    #56
  17. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    Truck of the Day.

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    Wolves, birch trees and snow :huh Somebody's jones'n for a trip north :lol3
    #57
  18. dave6253

    dave6253 GCBAR Explorer

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    Wonderful report. I'm enjoying it!
    #58
  19. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    We're up at a reasonable hour and after breakfast head for the river crossing north of Bato. Earlier cwc had asked a local kid how deep the water was he showed with his fingers that it was about one inch deep. Cwc figured that he had been misunderstood. Nope he was right but what we didn't know is that there was a new dike that you could drive across and the water there was only about an inch deep.
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    Not long after the big bad water crossing we start to climb up and over the ridge headed for Urique. Now I've never been on this road before so I can't tell you just where the "new" part began. Here's some of the climb out of the Batopilias Canyon.
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    Near the top of the Bato Canyon.
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    I had a set of tank panniers, the operative word here is had. Turns out they were in the way of my knees especially on the long climbs. So I moved them to the rear rack with a couple of bungees. Some where along the climb out of the Bato Canyon one of the tank panniers came loose and lodged itself between my rear tire and the exhaust. I remember thinking that the altitude was really sapping the power out of my little KLX, wrong. The group stopped for a break about 2/3 the way to the top and when I caught up Powerhouse came running over to me and grabbed the pannier out from the smoldering exhaust.

    Tire side.
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    Exhaust side.
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    It's not bad enough that I just ruined my tank panniers but inside the one that got trashed was a brand new Aerostich Limited Edition Soft Shell Fleece Jacket. So there's a good $200 melted into a smoldering heap :baldy I guess the good news is I didn't burst into flames some where along the road. As you can see from the picture the left sleeve was burned off and reattached to the right sleeve.
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    Eventually we reach the top of the ridge and into the cool pines.
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    You are HERE.
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    After few miles along the top of the ridge we begin our decent into Urique. We reach the "other" new road out of Urique that goes to Samachique.
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    The polvo was beginning to get a little thick.
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    About half way down the Urique we come across a truck that's a kind of logistics vehicle for the quad riders. We met some these folks the night before and they had passed us at one of our rest breaks. We stop to enjoy the view and hey, they've got refreshments! :clap

    Is this a great country or what!
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    Wayside rest Copper Canyon style.
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    At the wayside there was this young dude from the Netherlands riding a KLR who had just come from up Urique. We got a chance to chat and cwc and Tury gave him some route advise.
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    The bad news is we can't just hang here with these fine folks all day we have to leave. All the way at the bottom of the canyon is the Rio Urique that we need to cross. The river is low from the lack of rain and the first riders that arrive here get across easily. Just before I'm going to head out into the water some young dudes in their truck park in the middle and decide it's time to wash the beast. There's about five feet between the truck and a large rock on the shallow side. Not a big problem on even the rough roads of the canyons but on the rocky river bottoms well sometime directional control can be dicey.

    Remember look where you want to go.
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    The last of us squeeze through without incident.
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    Now we're in Urique and the place is packed with people in town for the Marathon. We score some fresh water and it's hot down here. My main thought is to get back up on top of the next ridge to cool off. A couple people need gas and head for the Pemex on the other side of town, that station is closed. There's a guy that sells gas out of some jugs a couple of blocks away a few people head that way while a couple of others head for the overlook and Bob and Sleddog who don't need gas wait. Once we're at the Urique overlook and we're taking in the sights some one asks did anyone tell Bob and Sleddog we were leaving?? :huh Dumb looks all around. So we peer down into the canyon looking for our amigos that we forgot in Urique. Good news we see a couple of small dust clouds making their way up the canyon. Sorry about that guys.
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    The Urique Canyon.
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    Fugarwe, Powerhouse and Truy looking over the overlook.
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    The shadows are begining to reach down into the canyon so we need to get to Cerocahui. We settle in at the Plaza, not quite the NYC version but comfy none the less.
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    We ask about dinner and they say they will fix us something do we want chicken or T-bones but that the chicken will take longer. We want food sooner rather than later so we opt for T-bones. That sounds like a good choice unless you've eaten beef in Mexico, not the best. We figure that they must have to butcher the chickens. The steaks come out and they're about 1/2 inch thick and cooked almost well done. We're hungry enough so it really doesn't matter and there's tortillas and beans and peppers and onions. They bring us as many of the steaks as we want and we eat two or three each so it's really a pretty good meal. We're full, we're happy and now we're thirsty. Those of us that would like a crevasse or two head over to the Mission Hotel a rather high end joint almost surprisingly so for a town like Cerocahui. We end the night with Indios by the fireplace.
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    Is this great country or what!
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    #59
  20. cwc

    cwc . Supporter

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    The traffic wasn't too bad here. IIRC between the Rio Batopilas and the Rio Urique there was one guy on a horse, the support truck for the quad riders and one KLR.

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    The climbs and descents are not as steep as the look. They are steeper than they look. Note this view is from the north.

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    This view is from the south.

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    #60