Yo Sobrevivi el Camino a Batopilas

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by rickcorwn, Mar 26, 2011.

  1. yamafitter

    yamafitter Old Cranky Guy Supporter

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    Exactly, I was amazed that our staff was able to get the support pickup down that road when we came into Chinipas from Alamos. Then again I was amazed that a schoolbus made it down into Batopilas.
    One of my neighbours drives a schoolbus around here and almost had a heart attack when I showed him my video of the descent into the canyon.
  2. Sleddog

    Sleddog Ridin, again:)

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    The next morning, we heard some music coming from the street out front. There was a parade going by.

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    These ladies had to stop & pose for the Gringo!

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    The dust had taken it's toll on our riding gear. There was a "wash station" located at the back of the courtyard. furgarwe shows how to hose off some of the Polvo.

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    While Ian prepares to clean his air filter

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    Four of us decide to head further west to Topolobampo, on the Sea of Cortez for some fresh seafood for lunch. The others stay back & tour the local sights of El Fuerte.

    Myself, Powerhouse, Ian & Bob on the fast road to the Coast.

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    It takes us about 1 1/2 hours to get to the coast.

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    We ride around town & find this place. From the looks, they should be serving seafood.

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    A look at the menu is convincing we are going to be eating something from the sea! The prices are not dollars.....

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    Powerhouse starts us with an appetizer. A shrimp, squid, snail & octopus cocktail! Very good!

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    The BBQ fish & Shrimp were very good too.

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    After lunch we took a little run around the Harbor. Topolobampo is one of the ports for ferries arriving from Baja. There wasn't any activity this afternoon. So we got a shot of a couple ships & started heading back.

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    On the way back through Los Mochis we went by a Fire Station. Ian is a fire fighter back home so wanted to stop & say hi to the local Bomberos.
    The guys were very happy to have a brother firefighter stop in. They gave us a tour of the firehouse, then presented Ian with a very nice shirt.

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    They probably wouldn't want this crew to show up at their next fire though!

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    Back in El Fuerte we joined the rest of the group, went to out to dinner & ended another great day in Mexico:clap

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  3. WilderRider

    WilderRider Long timer

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    I am leaving for Copper Canyon next week. This report is even more inspiration. :clap
  4. *Gravy*

    *Gravy* Jedi Loser

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    Great report! I'm saving the maps for when I get my turn.
  5. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    A day off in El Forte, Sleddog already covered some of the trip out to the coast. The rest of us stayed back in town and explored some once we got our chores done. There was gear and air filters to be cleaned and the staff at the Hotel Guerrero took all of our dirty laundry and washed it for us.

    Some pics of the courtyard at the hotel.
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    Moto parking and appliance recycling.
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    One of the rooms in the old part of the hotel, toilet seat optional.
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    Nobody's going to make off with this valuable B+W 12 incher.
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    Maps are out and plans are laid for the next days ride.
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    As you can see from the photo above fugarwe is real happy about the nachos he found at the Oxxo (convenience store) We're all thrilled that we can now get real brewed coffee at the Oxxo but with progress comes civilization, not always a good thing.

    Powerhouse at the Oxxo "hey guys there's brewed coffee in here."
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    Special Mexican Tostitos not available in the USA.
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    Hooky ice cream.
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    The convenience store, the beginning of the end for rural Mexico.
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    Fugarwe and I wander the side streets doing some light shopping and we make it over to the town square.
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    We head to the Hotel Posada Hidalgo an upscale establishment. Part of this hotel is the birth place of Diego de la Vega better know as El Zorro. I sign up for a massage first and then we wander around this historic hotel seeing how the other half travels.
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    The Casa Vieja courtyard.
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    They tiled around the tree roots.
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    Fugarwe getting stuck by El Zorro.
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    Later I head for the municipal building just off the square.
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    The courtyard inside.
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    In our wandering we come across this small bar just across from the square with a smokin hot bar tender who shows us her bass. A fish. you people get your minds out of the gutter. Bass are are product from the lake outside of town. We note the location and plan to return with the others.

    When the others get back from the coast and cleaned up we head for dinner back at the same spot as last night. Good food, good prices and big margaritas. The mural in the entry of the restaurant.
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    The gang's all here.
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    Like I said big margaritas.
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    Our table is outside and soon we discover that the cook's window is right by our table. Cwc checks with the cook to make sure his bean burrito is done to perfection.
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    After dinner most of us are off the bar we found earlier the one with the bartender with the nice bass. We catch some Mexican TV, wrestler being interviewed. Mexican TV can be like American TV was in the 50s and 60s.
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    After our fill of food and drink we head back to the hotel and pause for a group picture. Is this a great country or what!
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  6. LSGiant

    LSGiant Long timer

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    By the time you get there it will all look like Stillwater:rofl
  7. *Gravy*

    *Gravy* Jedi Loser

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    Hopefully the food will still be better.
  8. Grainbelt

    Grainbelt marginal adventurer Super Moderator

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    :poser
  9. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    Firetruck of the Day
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  10. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    After all the fun and games we must leave El Fuerte and the realization that our time in Mexico is about to expire begins to set in. We're on our way North back towards the border a few days of riding to get there but that's the driving force of our route now. A big paved road will get us to Choix where we fuel and get ready to rejoin the dirt roads.
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    Bob finds his favorite truck.
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    Here in Choix there seems to be a battle of the gas stations. There's a new Oxxo on the other end of town with a nice new convenience store. The Pemex is mostly just gas with a few small items. The owner of the Pemex counters with pretty girls to pump your gas. I wish gas wars were like this back home.
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    The road down to the ferry.
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    We get the ferry all to ourselves.
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    Careful, that's the crew's lunch.
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    The ah, kitchen.
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    Part of the drive system. Those silly belt guards are always in the way.
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    Siesta quarters.
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    We head up and over the next ridge and are heading for Cieneguita. Along the way we find what we hope will be a short cut. Ian and fugarwe are out front and scout the road a ways. They end up going back a forth a couple of times before it's all sorted out. Along this stretch of road there's this line crew putting up power lines. They have to pick up the lines that are laying across the road each time they pass by thinking are these guys lost or what??

    The line crew.
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    Also along this stretch we saw this bulldozer, someone got a little too close to the edge.
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    I come around a corner and find Sleddog has biffed it in a big plovo pit. He motions me to keep to the left like that's supposed to be better. I'm sure it was but under all that polvo were big ass holes and big ass rocks none of which you could see. Below you can see Sleddog giving me a push up and over something. Just another 100 feet up the road a pickup truck is coming down the road and I need slip between the truck and the side of the plovo pit. Like the water crossing directional control is marginal.
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    I walk back to help Sleddog as Tury comes through.
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    Bob and cwc paddling through the polvo.
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    Sleddog told us "when I was going down I thought to myself I'm glad my visor is closed" wrong.
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    We finally return the cool piney forests of the higher elevations and take a break.
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    The views are pretty good up here.
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    We stop in Cieneguita for a snack and check out a small hotel and cabins there. It's adequate and would do in a pinch but not a great destination. After Cieneguita the road is being used by trucks heading for the mine and it's under construction. Here we encounter our second bulldozer of the day. This one is kinda in our way.
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    About half way to Ceracauhi we stop at a small resort to check out the accommodations. A very nice well kept little place with cabins and some motel type rooms. It's a long way from any town meaning it's a long way from cervezas and it's a bit beyond the normal price we like to pay.

    Outside one of the cabins.
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    Inside one of the cabins note the colorful window on the back wall.
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    Here that window from the outside, pretty cool.
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    Coming down the hill into Ceracauhi.
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    The church in Ceracauhi.
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    Kids.
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    We check back into the Plaza Hotel and clean up. I get a chance to see how the leg is coming. There are all kinds of cool colors from my knee all the way to my toes. It's doesn't feel any worse it's actually in the OK range but it looks painful.
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    We decide on dinner at the Mission Hotel it's a bit more expensive than we've been paying but that's by Mexican standards. By American standards it's pretty reasonable for this nice of a meal

    Folding rocking chair. Kermit Chair folks take note.
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    Dinner at the Mission, better than we're used to. A meal that Klay would disapprove of square plates equal pain in the ass food, actually it was quite yummy. We finish off the evening with a couple of Indios by the firepalce.

    Is this a great country or what?
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  11. jimmex

    jimmex Guero con moto Supporter

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    What a great trip you guys had, with Tury as guia no less. Some of the best times on a motorcycle have been in that area. Its magical. Thanks.
  12. cwc

    cwc . Supporter

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    Todays route had some changes from the last time we went this way. The route in yellow is where we went. Note the blue section above the ferry. This is the way we used to go. Today's route was a new road and is about 10 miles shorter. It was also where the polvo was. It's not as twisty as the blue road but some of the grades are steeper and there has been more traffic on it so there is more polvo.

    In addition there was much more pavement just past Choix and there were some small changes in the route all along the way.


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  13. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    Truck of the Day
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  14. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    We wake up in the morning to find that the Plaza Hotel has put in place some extra security measures. The guard gato.
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    We're still headed north today just going to get to Creel and leave some time for sight seeing around Divisadero. We hook up with the "Low Road" in Bahuichivo. This is a Copper Canyon classic that follows the valley northeast from Bahuichivo crossing back and forth across the river multiple times now with the help of bridges.
    Looking back towards Bahuichivo.
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    But wait, the road is closed for 4 days? Surely they don't mean US! We ignore the sign and press on the worst that could happen is we have to ride this great little road twice.
    Fancy MexDOT signage :lol3
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    Cwc and Bob got here before we did (how'd that happen?) just as the "barricade" was going up.
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    Yes a piece of string but with a tattered old orange vest.
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    The often photographed bridge made of railroad rails.
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    Bob caught this some where. Flush toilets??
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    Looking down on the valley that the Low Road runs through.
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    Powerhouse scoots past Sleddog on the Low Road.
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    Low road, shady riding.
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    Overhanging Low Road.
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    Once we get to the other end there is a proper barricade, yellow tape.
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    Tury, cwc and Bob head for this lesser know overlook that I can't remember just where it was. The rest of us were headed for the more touristy Divisadero.
    Tury points to something interesting.
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    If there's an overlook there's Tarahumara selling their wares.
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    The El Divisadero welcoming committee, Tarahumara kids sell ing trinkets and asking for Pesos. It looks like fugarwe is talking nice to the cute little kids but what he's really saying is " when the guy with the red jacket gets here he has all the money."
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    When I arrive I'm mobbed by every kid in the joint "pesos, pesos, pesos." Sorry I got nuthin kids.
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    Asking for pesos they all have their hands out stretched so I start giving them all hand slaps. Not what they were asking for but they had fun anyway and so did I.
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    Cute kids.
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    Sights around the overlook.
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    The real reason we're here is the food! The train stops here and loads of tourists get off so it's a haven for the local economy. Besides all the stalls selling t-shirts, hats and jewelry there are several people making delicious meals on 55 gallon drums. Good chow!
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    Fugarwe buys some rocks for his kids. Rocks? What a bad Dad. In his defense they were rather pretty rocks.
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    Powerhouse our resident geologist finds some cool rocks to buy.
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    Just to the south of the overlook there's an area that is now a National Park cost to enter is like 20 Pesos. Not everyone is in on the pay to see more of the canyon but fugarwe, Sleddog and myself pay the dough and check out the new stuff at Divisadero. The overlooks here are more of the same, well except for that guy in on the rocks
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    A long way down.
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    A little suspension bridge action.
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    Farther in there's a brand new building that will eventually house a restaurant and gift shop. Climate controlled overlook viewing.
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    By the big windows there's this glass floor and the sign says don't walk on it! Only in Mexico could there be a glass floor too dangerous to walk on and no railing what so ever around it not even a velvet rope. Oh and if you do fall through it's a long way down.
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    Turns out the reason you're not supposed to walk on the glass is so you won't scratch it. There are those pull over blue booties to wear if you want to walk across the glass. Yes, we can be stupid gringos sometimes.
    The view from outside.
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    The other big attraction here is a tram car that goes out to a spot way down into the canyon.
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    It's a several minute ride out to the other end.
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    So the tram ride looks like a yawner to you how about a series of zip lines over 4 kilometers in total length. The longest one is 1100 meters that's like 3/4 of a mile. A short hike between each one and you wind up at the far tram station and ride back on the tram just 650 Pesos.
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    The launch point for the first zip line.
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    Well I hear a cerveza calling my name so I'm off to Creel. Watch out for the ChePe.
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    Back at the hotel we find these kids, not selling anything who want our empty beer cans. We strike deal they guard our beer back at the hotel while we wander through town and they can have the empties. Wow cats guarding our bikes in the morning and kids guarding our beer at night. Is this a great country or what?
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  15. cwc

    cwc . Supporter

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  16. IceCreamSoldier

    IceCreamSoldier suffering somewhere

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    excellent report guys! moves this up a few notches on the bucket list for me. also would like to see some photo documentation of the hot bartender with the nice bass, if possible. Big mouth or small mouth, just curious.
  17. rickcorwn

    rickcorwn Been here awhile

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    Sorry, no documentation of the bar keep. We missed that when we stopped by the first time and she was gone when we returned later. Besides she's better in person so get down there :deal
  18. eap

    eap El Adventurero Solitario Supporter

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    Awesome RR guyz, Really love the pics of the pueblos and people! :clap
  19. SkizzMan

    SkizzMan aka SkiddMark ;^)

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    Thanks for posting this. I feel better now. :lol3
  20. Powershouse

    Powershouse Flower Sniffer Supporter

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    How did we get out of El Fuerte with out any mention of


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    Gnnnnnnats!