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Zumo 660 Harness Hack Problem

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by TipsyMcStagger, Dec 21, 2015.

  1. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,633
    Location:
    NYC & NPR, FL
    Excuse the double post - I posted in the GPS section but this area gets a lot more traffic:

    I have a Zumo 660 and I want to remove the unneeded plugs and jacks from the cradle harness and extend the only two leads I'll use - the power leads.

    I cut the harness and isolated the black and red power wires that were wrapped together in foil, as shown below (not my photo).

    I have the Garmin cradle pinouts (also shown below). After extending the two power leads, and protecting them in shrink, I decided I'd better double check for continuity.

    The extended negative (black) wire tests for proper continuity on pins 15 & 16. I then tested the power (red) lead, anticipating continuity on pins 17 & 18. Nothing. There is no continuity between the extended red power lead and any pin on the cradle.

    I could only assume there was a problem with my splice so I removed the extension leaving only the original red hardwired lead, just as pictured below. I checked again for continuity. Nothing! There is no continuity between the factory red power lead and any pin in the cradle.

    What am I missing?

    Tipsy

    Power Leads
    [​IMG]

    660 Cradle Pinouts
    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. Road Warrior

    Road Warrior Valley BMW Riders member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2004
    Oddometer:
    50
    Location:
    Kamloops, BC, Canada
    Hi Tipsy.

    Just today I completed the mods to my mount for my Zumo 660 to do exactly what your after.

    First a comment - where did you get the pinout info for the cradle? The 660 does not operate on 12 volts itself.
    There is an internal 12v to 5v regulator internal to the cradle to provide the power ( 5V ) to run the Zumo.
    That's why you see no connection from the Red wire in the harness to the Zumo socket.

    The way I did this was to open up the cradle itself. There are 7 small Philips screws that are obvious on the cradle. Remove all 7 screws then split the case. Inside there are 2 connectors - one multi pin for all the functions you don't need and one 2 pin connector for 12v power. Disconnect both connectors from the circuit board.
    This allows you to completely separate the 2 half's of the cradle.
    I then removed the glue holding the wiring harness into the cradle as well as the metal "clip" under the glue.
    You can then just remove the whole wiring harness and both connectors from the cradle. Pull the 2 conductor connector out first. The other multipin connector will come out easier then.
    I then cut the two wires going from the 2 conductor connector about 2 inches back from the connector itself.
    You can then discard everything associated with the factory harness.

    Then find yourself a length of 2 conductor cable - preferably with a black & a red wire. (Approx 18-20 guage)
    Solder these wires onto the wires left on the 2 conductor connector, run through the hole vacated by the factory harness then silicon the hole to seal your new 2 conductor cable.
    Plugin the 2 conductor connector back into the circuit board, re-assemble the two cradle half's and you're done!

    You now have a small 2 conductor cable coming out of the cradle that you can connect to your bike any way you chose.
    Red is +12 volts, Black is Ground.

    This is a brief description to the job. It's VERY easy to do. Sorry, i didn't take any pics.

    Hope this helps.

    Ron
    #2
  3. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

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    I got the pinout info from this thread on Zumoforums. I think you'll have to register in order to see it.

    Then I would imagine my initial splice was adequate. I understand what you did - basically the same thing that's detailed in this Garmin 590 harness thread. But I see no reason that a simple cut and splice would not suffice, as detailed on this blog.

    I guess there's something about the step-down from 12 to 5 volts through the regulator that precludes continuity from the wire to the pin. I hadn't considered that. As mentioned, there is continuity on the lengthened ground lead. Just not on the power lead.

    I'm going to redo the splice tomorrow and temporarily connect it to the battery and see if it works.

    Thanks very much for the reply!

    Tipsy
    #3
  4. daze55556

    daze55556 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2013
    Oddometer:
    74
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    Hi guys, I am a complete electrical novice so please try not to laugh too hard if this is a stupid question.

    I have snipped all the cables apart from the power on the battery side of the junction box and now the cradle doesn't work. are all of the extraneous cables needed to complete the circuit? Will I now need to do the mod to get the cradle working?

    Cheers.
    #4
  5. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

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    I'm not really sure what you're asking but I modified my harness as described above and it works fine. The only two wires I'm using are the black and red power leads (the two wires in the foil pictured above). As pointed out by Road Warrior, you will not be able to see continuity between the red wire and Pins 17 & 18 because of the step-down regulator.

    None of the other wires are required for the cradle to supply power.

    Tipsy
    #5
  6. daze55556

    daze55556 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2013
    Oddometer:
    74
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    So I use a test light and the ones marked in red lit up. I guess no light on the "power" pins is a problem...



    upload_2016-2-15_16-59-39.png
    #6
  7. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

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    What are you trying to accomplish? If you simply want to trim the harness so only the power leads remain, simply extended the red and black wires that were originally isolated and foil wrapped. You will not see continuity between the end of the red wire and Pin 17 & 18 because there is a step-down regulator built in to the cradle to reduce voltage from 12v to 5v.

    It's a good idea to cut all of the remaining (unused) wires at slightly different lengths so there's no chance of the tips of those wires coming into contact with one another (as illustrated in the photo).

    Tipsy

    [​IMG]
    #7
  8. daze55556

    daze55556 Adventurer

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    Nov 17, 2013
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    Melbourne, Australia
    All I was trying to achieve was to remain ve all of the extraneous cables.

    Should I take all of that to mean there is most likely a problem with the actual unit? Rather than the cradle or wiring harness because that seems to test ok.
    #8
  9. marc-s

    marc-s photographer

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2012
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    311
    Location:
    Zurich, Switzerland
    damn you're all cutting the wires off, and I'm trying to find a (used, cheap) wire harness with all the plugs still on :yikes
    #9
  10. Sparke

    Sparke Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2005
    Oddometer:
    487
    Location:
    Sparks, Maryland,USA
    Thanks Ron,

    I will be doing the process as you instructed. All I need is 14 inches of cable to a BMW plug, and it will reach the power socket on any of my bikes. That will make it easy to transfer the GPS at the Ram mount joint without a lot of ugly gables dangling.
    #10