2014 Sherco 1.25ST Exhaust Cleanup

Discussion in 'Trials' started by Buschog, Aug 2, 2018.

  1. Buschog

    Buschog Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2015
    Oddometer:
    811
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    I've been fighting to get my wife's bike tuned, even decently, since we bought it. It's always run mediocre at best, and stalled all the damn time on her. I was only able to keep it running when I rode it, with quick clutch and throttle hands. Tonight, as I have on several occasions, I took it for a WFO run to try to clean out the exhaust. I got some smoke out of it, but not much even though the silencer was super hot to the touch.


    The bike has had spoogy oil dripping from the exhaust since I got it, so I decided to take it apart to clean it out and repack it. Hoping I will be able to get it tuned after this.





    What is the best/safest method to clean out all of this oil?

    Trying to burn it out with a MAP torch scares me a little. Isn't it a little chancey that I'll melt, or at least severely weaken the aluminum?
    #1
    alpineboard likes this.
  2. Huzband

    Huzband Team Dirt

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,548
    Location:
    Cowford, Fl.
    If you choose to use a torch be sure you're outside. Also be sure to have someone video the procedure. :lol3

    Seriously, I've never seen one where liquid ran out like that. I would make judicious use of a heat gun, being careful to move it around so as to not create any unwanted specific hot spots. I certainly wouldn't take an open flame to it. I don't know your elevation, but I doubt you'll have to re-jet after getting it cleaned out.
    #2
  3. heffergm

    heffergm Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2014
    Oddometer:
    1,964
    That's bizarre. Usually you end up with a little liquid, but mostly just built up deposits, not a river of oil.

    What premix and ratio are you running?

    I've seen the heat gun trick, but I'd be more inclined to just soak it in something like a water and vinegar mix, then push some steel wool through it a few times. It doesn't need to be pristine (obviously ;))
    #3
  4. Buschog

    Buschog Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2015
    Oddometer:
    811
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    The previous owner gave me some amsoil with the bike. I have no idea what ratio he was running at.
    I run 80:1 Maxima K2. I live at 4500' asl, and I jetted it per Motobene so it should be awful close.

    I left the pipes vertical in the trash can last night so most of the liquid schmoo should have run out.
    I have a small bottle of foam air filter cleaner. Can I soak the parts in that to degrease them? I dont want to mess up the finish on anything, or I'd just use a commercial degreaser. I've used similar degreaser before, and it left white crap on the aluminum parts that I couldn't get off of my old bike.

    I have to order replacement packing and seals today from RYP since it was all sealed up with red rtv. So the bike will be sitting for the weekend anyway.
    #4
  5. Huzband

    Huzband Team Dirt

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,548
    Location:
    Cowford, Fl.
    I've never had a bad experience with Simple Green on bare aluminum, but I've never left it on for an extended period either. Royal Purple however will destroy anything it comes in contact with.
    #5
    laser17 likes this.
  6. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 46 years

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2013
    Oddometer:
    5,074
    Location:
    Wichita Mountains SW Oklahoma
    You can cut and wash out spoo with solvents. I scrape as much header and muffler cake out with a long screwdriver as I can.

    The header I burn out with a cutting torch, oxygen rich, very carefully. One mis timed touch of the oxygen lever if you've made the walls glow orange will blow a nice hole through. As with any tool, you've got to be skilled to get the benefits sans detractions.

    Titanium has poor thermal conductivity, and will get brittle of over heated, so extra caution is required. Titanium sparks bright white off a grinding wheel whereas steel is yellowish white to orangeish.

    Muffler burnouts are to be done with caution and as a slow wave front, not letting the packing mesh melt inside, especially when aluminum.

    I start a fire in the the muffler entrance, pointing the exaust end on an up angle, then shut off the flame but leave the oxygen running. The trick is just enough Os to burn from end end to another in a wave.

    The smoke produced is really nasty stuff!

    After clean outs, right jetting, some occasional sustained heavy loading for mini burnouts, and no constant putt putt riding will prevent hardening of the muffleries.
    #6
    laser17 likes this.
  7. Bronco638

    Bronco638 Nobody Home

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2004
    Oddometer:
    5,514
    Location:
    Itasca, IL
    I've used it on aluminum (bare and clear coated) as well. But, it does say right on the label not to use it on aluminium. YMMV.
    #7
  8. Huzband

    Huzband Team Dirt

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,548
    Location:
    Cowford, Fl.
    Label? I don read no steenking labels! :D
    #8
    Hoss Cartright and Brewtus like this.
  9. laser17

    laser17 Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,412
    Location:
    Boston,Massachusetts
    If you get it running nice, to keep it splooge free, make sure you take the bike for a cleanout blast each ride. Get her hot and blow that crap out of there before packing up. I have a large parking lot at my club property and after a few WFO passes, I will see white smoke blowing out the back after days where the bike never really got that hot and the oil didn't burn off. Also, if you do burn out the midbox by lighting a fire, do it in short stints so the AL doesn't get too hot.
    #9
  10. Buschog

    Buschog Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2015
    Oddometer:
    811
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    I decided I'm going to tape off one end and pour in some solvent, to rinse the majority of oil out. There is a small amount of carbon in there, but at first glance it is a pretty minimal. I purchased a 20 gallon parts washer over the weekend, and 10 gallons of solvent to go along with it. So, tape it up, slosh it around, pour it out. Then I'll hook up my leaf blower to help dry all of the solvent out before I recheck, and reassemble.

    Hopefully with it missing the liquid oil, I can successfully make a burn out run to clean out any left over carbon.
    I plan to work on it some tonight, if the day goes well and I'm not exhausted by quitting time.
    Plus I'm waiting on a clutch M/C rebuild kit for my bike (that I actually NEED this weekend). So, if that shows up today... It becomes the priority.
    #10
    laser17 likes this.
  11. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 46 years

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2013
    Oddometer:
    5,074
    Location:
    Wichita Mountains SW Oklahoma
    Don't bother with the leaf blower. Just do a series of burnouts by riding the bike under a sustained load, catching the exhaust on fire until it gets pretty darned hot, then give it a break to cool. Repeat until no more burnouts occur.

    If you are in a mountainous area, burnouts are pretty easy to come by. Just climb a mountain somewhere. Otherwise find a hill and push hard up it repeatedly without allowing the exhaust to cool much in between climbs.
    #11
  12. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 46 years

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2013
    Oddometer:
    5,074
    Location:
    Wichita Mountains SW Oklahoma
    That's good maintenance. I try to do it on the loop trail once an event.
    #12
    laser17 likes this.
  13. Buschog

    Buschog Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2015
    Oddometer:
    811
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    I should get it all back together this coming week.
    I had to get my GG going first.

    Now, I'm just down the road from Donner. We're setting sections and finishing cleanup this weekend. They say we will be riding in the sections as well. I suspect THEY a will be riding them in. I don't believe I have the talent... yet
    #13
    Brewtus and Huzband like this.
  14. Buschog

    Buschog Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2015
    Oddometer:
    811
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    Took me a minute to find this, but I did. Thanks, it worked like a charm. I threw the ancient chain on the test ride going over (between) a pair of rocks. I was able to rotate the flywheel bare handed. How would one damage the stator?

    Probably have bad crank seals, according to RYP Kevin. Swingarm looks like this after 20 minutes.
    20180815_180720.jpg

    And the inside of the header was wet with black spooge, no pooled liquid, but it was only 20 minutes.
    #14
  15. LowPSI

    LowPSI Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    539
    Location:
    California
    [QUOTE
    Now, I'm just down the road from Donner. We're setting sections and finishing cleanup this weekend. They say we will be riding in the sections as well. I suspect THEY a will be riding them in. I don't believe I have the talent... yet[/QUOTE]

    Thanks for all your hard work.
    #15
    Brewtus likes this.