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Discussion in 'Trials' started by Vintage pro, Mar 3, 2018.
you know u want a trs
The comparison was between a Champ rider's 2018 GasGas, the Beta 200, and my Sherco with long-travel Ohlins. The latter being tops, whatever is on that Beta being a close second, and whatever is on the GasGas being third with some separation between the first two.
All I know is what I felt. Sad to say I did not close the loop and actually look at what was on the ass end of these two bikes. Embarrassing!
My son should have his for 6 months till I get a new bike. 6 months to love it or leave it alone.
What will Raymond say.....
I'm curious to hear the six month report. I've ridden a couple and while the new ones felt nice all the used ones felt pretty clapped out for what were still very new bikes ridden by low level riders. That seemed weird to me, but it's entirely possible they were just poorly maintained. Wayne's got one now... Let's see how many decades he puts on it before it's time for a new one .
Clapped out with low hours and low level riders? This does not bode well for me.
Working on the clutch lever pull on the 2018 factory by lowering preload against the springs. I know some of you just take two springs out, I prefer adding 6 / 6mm flat washers, 1.5mm thick, then machining the tops of each bolt so the tops of the bolts don't rub the inner webs of the cover. The clutch is now perfect for me over the standard factory setting, I don't trust the removal of the two springs, because over a period of time the clutch needs the opposing force of these springs to stabilize the pressure plate at high stress levels.
The availability of those washers that back off the preload make retaining all six springs the best option.
The vast majority of riders do not need, and would not prefer - if given the choice - the net spring pressure plate clamping force chosen almost by default by factories. I think that is a just-in-case spec because maybe the owner might be a high-level rider who would prefer a more forceful and rapid engagement.
The new Beta 200 I rode had a very typical, too-fast clutch. The springs and net spring force may be the same as for the 300 and thus definitely overkill for the mellow 200, or a 250, and possibly 300 too... for most of us.
Everyone who rides my Sherco 250 with the pressure plate with the least spring preload remarks about how wonderful and predictable the clutch is. With the stock preload amount the clutch lever is stiffer and the response is a little faster. But being a Belleville-spring clutch with less pressure plate throw than the typical helical-springs clutches, engagement speed with a stock Sherco setup isn't over fast. Backing off on preload is mostly a lever-pull fix.
With helical coil springs clutches, backing off on preload has a more noticeable effect on slowing the engagement speed to damp out some tendency toward hyper clutch.
Replaced front brake pads today with Jitsie BP168 Race/ installed Jitsie water hoses, the 2016 factory's came with them standard but the last two years they aren't on the bikes. Had my riding buddy blow the short one on the right at the STCA event in Febuary when he had a minor head gasket leak , so they might make a difference in finishing a event.
Question for you: What difference do the Jitse pads make? I've long been a fan of Galfer red pads. So far I've had zero reason to try anything else. OE Beta pads are black. Who makes them what model are they?
Chris the first photo has the information of model they are, I have used them in the past. They are a more abrasive metallic pad , when they are warmed-up they grip better with less lever pull. Jitsie BP168Race
Movied the regulator & control button for power ban selection under the number plate. Installed Jitsie lever & perch adjusters for easy changes on the hydraulics when riding. Sculpt the end of the clutch ball like a spoon to make engaging the clutch less bothersome.
I get everything but scooping the lever ball. Isn't your one finger nowhere near the ball?
I move the bracket farther in so the ball is problematic. All I can say it works and till you try it for a day you'll be a believer.
You turned it into a knife, lol. My finger is on the entire opposite end of the lever, and the ball never gets anywhere near the grip when you're 1 fingering the clutch (since it hits your knuckles first) so I really don't get it :)
How about a picture of your hand and finger placement, so we can see what you're talking about?
He is using all the leverage and you are riding like the pro's without any leverxge.
From the pictures, it doesn't look like his levers are as far in (edit: position on bar, not distance from bar) as mine are, but the lever ball never gets in the way of my fingers. Makes me curious to see a pic too!
I suffer from SNAC or Scaphoid Nonunion Advanced Collapse in my left wrist which I can only squeeze 45lb's compared to rights 120lb's so I need to modify my grip profile on the bars , which are cut to 30" from the stock 32". I think most of you older riders would benefit from the modification, it's cheap to do.
The stock pilot jet changed from #48 to #50, peace of crap plastic idle adjuster replaced with a steel idle adjuster with a large knurled head so you can adjust by hand. Replaced rear brake pads with jitsie race.