Airhead parts - the dark secrets revealed

One wheel lug on my r80gs is missing and I was not able to find a replacement with the right length in Turkey. Is there any reason I should definitely avoid using a high strength flange bolt instead?
I think I can find the cone, or at least one close enough that I can have it machined.

I see that it has been over 6 hours since you posted this so I'll take a shot at it. I'm not a GS guy so maybe I'm not seeing the problem too clear but if it will take the called for torque and it looks like the edges are making good contact I would say go for it. Maybe the cone will not look right but the other 3 cones are doing the job of locating the wheel.

Ultimately the person doing this installation has to decide if it will work. We could be here all week waiting for somebody who has made this exact same repair.

Sometimes you have to consider if such a shade tree repair will cause damage that can't be reversed. So keep this in mind.

+1 on the previous post .
I would take a bit more care when torquing down too, maybe 5 lbs at a time and keeping a good look out for anything untoward.

I think that's what I would do also.

For a lug bolt to fall out tells me they were under-torqued. They're something like 85 foot pounds or around that value.

I've never heard of this happening before, but wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea having a spare in the tool kit?

Rear wheel studs usually fail when ham fisted mechanics or owners don't evenly tighten the nuts or bolts to a proper torque. The system was designed to work if properly maintained. Failures are a problem of maintenance, not design.

If the rear end is where the threads are it's important that the threads there remain in useable condition. This is why being able to tighten to the proper torque is important. I have seen wheel studs on large trucks and cars tighten to almost the proper torque but they keep turning. It is only properly torqued when the bolt or nut stops turning at the proper click.

Sometimes guys will install the lug bolts with anti seize - a big no no! They're spec'd to be installed dry. I've heard of them falling out because of that.

The convention with torque figures is that unless otherwise noted they are for clean dry threads.
Which opens a whole can of worms-----------------.
At one time the Honda Common Service Manual had a excellent chapter of fasteners but it seems to have been severely modified in the manuals which are on line today.
In the early version they suggested reducing the torque figures by 15/30% if the threads were lubed but that advice is no longer there, for whatever reason.
FWIW Loctite is formulated so that no change in torque is requires- it was reportedly the biggest problem when developing the product, dont know if knock off's are the same-------------.

I put my lug bolts on dry, just did it again last week.

I would never put anti seize on lug bolts or nuts. What I have done in the past was install alloy lug nuts to iron lug studs with a shot of WD-40 inside the nut hopefully to displace any moisture (humidity) from the threads. This was standard procedure for Porsches with alloy wheels (which mandated alloy lug nuts).

Witness marks on mine, front brake rotor fasteners, and some suspension fateners. Every fuel stop a quick walk around confirms all are good. I used a yellow auto paint touch up pen, or white.

Ou

Enviado do meu Mi Note 2 através do Tapatalk

For Sale -- front rotor carrier from my 1976 R75/6, but other models will interchange. i ground off the rivets years ago and re-installed the rotor using 6mm Gr 8.8 bolts when i was trying to solve a brake pulsing problem. i used shims but failed to correct the problem. i recently had the wheel hub machined, then found the original rotor was warped. i upgraded to a Speigler assembly and they couldn't use this carrier as it had been drilled out.

{when installing a Speigler rotor, you send them your carrier and they will remove the rivets then drill and tap the existing carrier holes. new rotor is installed using special bolts. they couldn't do that with this carrier as i had already drilled it.}

this carrier is in nice shape, and bead-blasted. could be used in a dual disc set-up. $32 shipped anywhere in the lower 48. US postal service check, or paypal works.

You might want to put that in the flea market thread.

done, thx.

Before someone strips one of these things, the spec on GS and other mono and paralever is 75 lbs/ft . R80G/S and S/T are 60lbs/ft.

Lawyers... What years was that in the manual? I'm sure they're out there on ebay and pdf

Just ordered some Brembo caliper parts from this place... much cheaper than BMW, Guzzi and Motobins

https://www.oppracing.com/


UPDATE: Had a bad experience with these guys and I would not use them again

Nice!

Just an update on the NAPA Oil Pressure Sender unit part number OP-6065 on page 1. I bought one this week with the NAPA website (Canada) price showing $10.58. I called to put the last one in Vancouver on hold. When I arrived the price was over $40! After stating my concerns about the discrepancy from the website to the counter sales "MY" price was suddenly $32.89 plus taxes. MAX BMW lists the BMW OEM switch at USD$19.67. Island BMW in Canada lists it at CDN$30.97

Any savings from buying the NAPA part are totally gone obviously. They must have heard what BMW gets for them and raised the price. Maybe we're the only ones buying the damn things. Anyway, the info on page one is way off so just letting folks know the gig is up.

I wrote NAPA online an email about their erroneous pricing and now the Canada site price is $32.89. Not a word of reply to me of course but they fixed the price online.

I order mine from Motobins. Neglible cost.

Shows at $16.99 on (US?) site (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHOP6065)