BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

The standard exhaust is prone to collapse inside the muffler, this restricts the gasflow in the mid and upper rev-range.
Some people mistake this for a clogged up cat. (which as far as I know has never happened on these bikes, they run far too lean for that)

So the baffles collapse inside the can?

20mi or 30kms us about as as adventurous as I ever got on a fuel light. Then aha most if the time the thing has come on for me was in the woods so its always a guessing game of how much I've burnt through trying to get out if the trails onto the tarmac...

Thanks, that makes me feel a little better. It is hard to go easy on the X, it makes a hooligan out of me after riding the Dakar. Mileage suffers greatly but grins are big....

Thanks to CapeMan, we got my forks resealed. Now for the electronics....
The X manual calls for using a special tool for the spark plug. Do i need this to remove the cap & wire from the plug. I need to check my valves & am a little concerned about just yanking on this thing without the tool and ending up needing to buy some new parts and loss of additional $$$.

No need for a special tool to remove the coil from the plug. You can reach in and do it by hand, just don't pull on the wires.

Hi, could someone kindly please advise on the Torque values for the top triple clamp fork tube pinch bolts and the middle axel hex bolt?

Yep. Some start to rattle first others don't.

I would go with 20 on the top clamps and 12 or so at the bottom ones. The middle one just tight, it's only there to prevent the Hex one from turning.

Yes, I may have to adjust valves because, after a while with the new battery, the bike always starts fine when hot, but idle speed is sometimes too high for about a minute after restart and it´s spending more fuel (10 to 15 less km per tank). The bike has 23.000 km and valves never been checked.

Sure, if you're a real man. What about the rest of us? For those, you can buy a cheap plastic tool for $10.

Or just use some slip joint pliers.

+1 on the slip joint pliers.

Spray some grease or oil under the boot of the coil and try and turn it whilst pulling it up. Mine came out fairly easy that way. I've put some grease on the boot now (the ones at the top where they go through the valve cover) before putting them back in.

Has anyone tried one of the AF-XIED lambda shifting devices on the X? I know it's a BMSC and not BMSK but I'm curious if it helps richen the AFR like it does for the 1150s.
Here's a link to the development thread. It's a good read- explains things very well.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...o2-sensor-project-and-af-xied-for-bmw.749080/

Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks!

Tried it on a Husky TR650. It wasn't worth it in the end as the ECU will learn to counteract it on Lambda values.

Clutch Plates
So with making an effort to address known issues on these bikes I ordered the appropriate replacement clutch cover for my new to me 10,000 mile bike. (Clutch seems to drag very slightly and pretty much can adjust it out of there with the cable adjuster on the perch.)
I was figuring to replace the friction plates while in there for a clean base line but BMW wants to sell the clutch as a package with steels and springs for $270.
Is there a preferred go to source for the friction plates on these bikes? I am a big fan of quality and longevity and dont really abuse a clutch.

Thanks

Get the EBC friction plates. Unless the steel plates are warped, just reuse them.

Beautiful. Thanks!

Thinking on clutch friction plates...

My X hase just under 30K miles and I have been considering replacing the plates, just updated the clutch case cover and both operation and drag are fine, however when I did the case cover I couldn't find a Spec on the thicknes of the pack or plates to check them, visual inspection they seemed fine, so am not sure if I really need to replace or not.

Im not sure either but figured while I am in there it may be peace of mind. I hate doing things twice.