BMW G650X Issue Log (xCountry, xChallenge, xMoto)

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by andrewgore, Jul 20, 2009.

  1. Lankbrown

    Lankbrown No Pain No Gain

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    63
    Location:
    Melbourne,OZ

    The connection on the wiring loom inside the tank is damage and the connection on the main loom. The earth connection corroded and heated melting the pin on the cap. The picture shows the pin missing which pulled through when removing the plug.

    Attached Files:

  2. LangKat

    LangKat Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    68
    Location:
    Johannesburg
    Model: xChallenge
    Year:2008
    ABS: yes
    Mileage at time of issue: 5000km
    Modifications: N/A

    When I turn the bike off the backlight of the dash stays on. I tried pulling out the fuse for the dash and putting it back in but that didn't solve the problem. At work so can't take a proper look at it. Any ideas?

    Edit: Problem went away. I didn't have a chance to take the dash out and see what caused the problem. Probably water in the dash or ignition.
  3. SMDrew

    SMDrew Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    Tri-Valley, CA
    I have yet to talk to the dealership about this one. It's an annoyance, but I feel relevant, and want to see if anyone else has this issue.

    Model: xMoto
    Year: 2007
    ABS: Y
    Mileage at time of issue: First observed at ~5000 miles
    Date of occurrence: First observed ~ 3 months ago
    Modifications (if any): Only fuel system mod is Leo Vince pipe; street insert (smallest ID)
    Description of Failure(s): Lightened coloring on tank, horizontally level, ~2/3 up from the bottom
    Resolution (if any): TBD
    Reference Thread: N/A

    Basically, I suspect the plastic material in the tank is not equipped to handle the ethanol content in the fuel. The result is a fading of the black color from the tank. The line is a non-pronounced line that runs front-to-back; the line is level with the ground when the bike is on its sidestand. I know it is not from chafing from my gear, as the line extends back to the subframe, beyond where my legs would reach.
  4. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,382
    Gas cap update -

    Whew. OK. Stephan Scheff is supposedly working on this too.

    He currently makes a standard Acerbis type cap and he wants to use the cap he currently makes etc. He wants to cut a flat flange with three bolts to replace what is on the tank as a stock set-up (6 bolts) and then weld a filler neck to accept his cap onto this new flange. The bolts holding the flange will have to be sealed. I dont think the stock bolts are fuel-tight since the stock cap's sealing ring is outside the bolt pattern perimeter.

    I am not particularly keen on this approach although I have looked at a similar set-up that uses another universal cap. I dont want it to look half-assed and improvised, however.

    I also have spent some time designing a machined twist-lock cap to simply replace the stock cap and work with the stock flange on the gas tank. I have met with a machinist and discussed this plan. It can be done. You'd be surprised at how involved the design becomes when you try to balance form versus function. There are many factors that come into play. For example, the sealing rubber on the cap needs to be placed in such a way as not to provide a conduit for fuel drip when the cap is removed. Little things like that.

    I am still working on it. However, in the mean time, I have discovered how ( I think) to fix the leaking stock cap.

    I do not have pictures yet but the fix is rather simple. You need to replace two seals. 1. The flat rubber gasket that seals to the tank flange and 2. a small o-ring that is internal and seals the lock cylinder.

    The flat rubber cap seal can be made from a suitable material obtained from a rubber supply house or maybe even an auto parts store. I purchased both some nitrile and some neoprene. The thickness that I used is supposed to be 1/16 inch and it is apparently just a slightly thicker dimension than the stock seal. You simply take the stock seal and draw its imprint on the new material and then cut the gasket with scissors and poke 4 holes for the securing screws with a sharp object.

    The little o-ring that is about 1/2 inch in diameter can also be purchased as a standard stock item. The one I bought is made from viton (good stuff).

    Ok, now. How to get these parts out of the cap. It is easy.

    Turn the cap upside down. There is a single little shiny pin that olds everything together. The pin is less then 1/8 inch diamter and maybe 5/8 inch long. You can see it in a recess at the end of the center green plastic piece. You can also see that it is designed to slide out an opening on one side. However, you will also see that it is trapped to prevent an errant sliding out in use.

    Place the cap upside down on a table. Press down on the center plastic piece to compress the spring that keeps tension on everything. This will allow the pin to clear it's channel. While compressing, take a small screwdriver and slide the pin out. Everything comes apart then, two plastic pieces and the spring.

    Slide the key into the lock and the lock cylinder will release and slide out. The o-ring to seal the cylinder is down in the bore out of which the cylinder slides.

    Remove the four screws that secure the plastic retainer over the cap gasket and you can then remove that gasket.

    This is not nearly as complicated as it sounds and it is hard to screw up getting things back together since it can only go back correctly.

    When you re-insert the cylinder be sure to have the key in it and twist it until it seats down in it's bore or you will never be able to compress everything enough to re-insert the little pin that holds everything.

    I was able to use two of the o-rings in place of only one and still get everything to go back together.

    I noticed that when I finished everything and re-fitted the gas cap, it tightened down noticably more snugly. I assume this is due to a slightly thicker sealing gasket. I can also feel the increased drag of the tighter o-ring seals on the lock cylinder when I open and close the lock.

    I've had mine full of fuel for a while and everything is holding tight. No leaks.
  5. Buffalo Bill

    Buffalo Bill kickthetire.litethefire

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,002
    Location:
    North Idaho
    I was experiencing the engine stalling after start that has been addressed on here several times...For me the bike would start fine, then quit after about 30 seconds of idling..the stalling would usually only happen when starting a cold engine...As temps cooled into the fall and then winter months the bike would stall several times and need to be restarted until it reached normal operating temps..

    I explained my problem to Service Dept at Engle Motors in KC...They fixed the problem by replacing a temperature sensor in the radiator...I have had the bike out several times since getting it back and have not experienced the cold engine stalling...It appears the sensor was the problem..
  6. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2006
    Oddometer:
    15,738
    Location:
    Arkansas
  7. Niedz

    Niedz Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    646
    Location:
    Bucks County, PA
    interesting, but i have found the stalling issue to come and go! my bike would stall on start up just like yours, but the last time i rode it it was colder than usual and i completely expected it to stall, but it didnt. weird!
  8. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,126
    Location:
    Chambers Bay, WA
    You got a part number for that sensor? Was it 13621703993?
  9. Buffalo Bill

    Buffalo Bill kickthetire.litethefire

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,002
    Location:
    North Idaho
    Yes that is the number...1 Eng Coolant Temp Sen...$22.38....




  10. Miguel Pedro

    Miguel Pedro Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Oddometer:
    25
    Hi!
    First of all, I salute the advrider community:freaky, this is my first post.
    Last week I experienced a engine failure that seems like a sprag clutch failure. I opened the generatorr case and see a superfine silver metal powder on the pick up coil, just like the descrition made by Colebatch

    I cleaned everyhing, and now the bike always starts.
    In yours opinion I must change the sprag clutch as soon as possible? or I can ride a few more Km?

    Here goes a video of last saturday track in nothern Portugal ("Aboboreira and Marão hills!?"), have fun!
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PSQFO5dt6Sg&feature=player_embedded

    Attached Files:

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  11. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,177
    Location:
    Schmocation
    It will go OK. until it does it again ... then you have to stop and clean it again, change the oil again. Eventually the sprag clutch will be completely fu@ked and you will have to change it.

    Changing the sprag clutch is probably the only way to make sure it doesnt happen again any time soon.

    But yes, you can run it and clean the pick up coil every time it stops picking up.
  12. Miguel Pedro

    Miguel Pedro Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Oddometer:
    25
    Thank's Colbatch for your opinion!
    The sprag clutch can only be purchased on bmw?
    SKF or FAG make them?
  13. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,177
    Location:
    Schmocation
    No idea who makes them. SO far, I know only of getting them thru BMW and it can be a little expensive ... 300 EUR or so ... because you need to get the metal pieces of the sprag clutch but probably also need to replace the freewheel

    The sprag clutch pieces are 12117687777 (about 100 EUR)
    The freewheel housing is 12117652871 (about 200 EUR) and the clutch works on the inside surface of the housing. So if the clutch is damaged, then probably the freewheel housing is also damaged.
  14. motomarks

    motomarks n00b

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3
    I took my 09 Xcountry to Touring Sport BMW in Greenville, SC and they fixed the cold stalling issue by downloading a new ECU tune as I suggested. Haven't had a problem since. Jeff is the service manager there and he was very helpful.
  15. Lankbrown

    Lankbrown No Pain No Gain

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    63
    Location:
    Melbourne,OZ
    I brought an 07 Xchallenge in late 2009. The bike has now done 74,000 kms and I really enjoy the bike. It has been modified in many area generally to make it a great Adv bike.

    Recently it has started to develop a miss fire to the point that it is now in the garage waiting patiently for attention. I am going to clear the throttle body over the week end as I have purchased a new Idle Control Device because it is covered in crap tried an initial basic clean that had some improvement but after reading the treads a thorough job need to done.

    The only thing that worries me is the miss fire. The miss fire increases as the bike gets warm which usually indicates coils. They are very expensive in OZ and wondered if anyone else has replaced theirs.

    Cheers
  16. Max Kool

    Max Kool Xtankteam™

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,546
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Anyone here having the "not starting on a hot engine" problem?

    The more I think about it, the more I think it is the autodecompressor failing on a hot engine. Thus leaving a compression ratio the starter can't handle.

    Please share your ideas.
  17. joenuclear

    joenuclear Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    9,063
    Location:
    Top of the Ouchitas, bottom of the Ozarks.
    I ran out of gas yesterday and the low fuel light never came on. Is there a way to troubleshoot the low fuel indicator?
  18. an13

    an13 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 29, 2010
    Oddometer:
    112
    Location:
    Finland
    I have had the "not starting while hot" on several random occasions, usually after very short fueling or throwing-the-water stops. Drained my battery on starting attempts because didn't wait long enough to cool and walked to nearest settlement. Starter turns nice but doesn't even try to fire. When getting more juice with jumper cables and cooled more while pushing, bike will start immediately. Will try Lifepo4 battery for more CCA.
  19. velofleche

    velofleche Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2010
    Oddometer:
    36
    Bike intermittently fails to start when warm. Seems to have plenty of cranking amps to turn but won't fire up. Only solution i have thus far discovered is to walk away for 10mins. At least for now that seems to work, But for obvious reasons i am looking to resolve this, would greatly appreciate any input?
  20. August West

    August West Wharf Rat

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2009
    Oddometer:
    601
    Location:
    Stevensville, MT
    Same here.